Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
Get an el cheapo ohm meter. Set it on the green ohms setting so that when you touch the the 2 leads together the needle goes over to the right. That means you have continuity or a complete circuit. Unplug the appliance. Remember this: always take one wire off any item you want to check for continuity so that you will not get a false reading. Any item you find open will be the culprit. Start with the heating element. then go for the hi limit mounted on the top of the heater chamber. If the hi limit is bad but the heater is good you have a blocked vent. If the heater is bad you have a light bulb phenom. All things manmade perish. By finding out first what is gone haywire you save bucks right? We know it is not the fuse because the dryer would not run at all if the fuse was blown because its 2 smaller wires connect in with the door switch. All of the stuff you need to check is mounted on the rear of most dryers, some models have a bottom panel which is held by spring clips. The element is easily replaced in that model.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
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I will assume this is an electric dryer.
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In my experience, these are the possible problems in order of how often they happen.
1) Thermal overheat sensor fails. This is a small electrical device that will turn off the heating element if it thinks the dryer is getting too hot. It will have 2 wires connected to it and a silver colored round metal piece that senses the heat. When this part fails, the heater will not turn on. Disconnect the wires from this sensor and verify that it has zero (0) ohms across the two connectors.
2) Heating element could be burned out. Disconnect the two wires from the heating element and verify that it has a low resistance. Replace it if there is no resistance.
3) The thermostat has failed. There is a part that monitors the heat in the oven and turns the heating element on and off. You test it the same way you test item #1 above.
4) Some dryers have a FLUFF setting where the dryer only blows cold air. The switch that selects the heat settings could be broken. You will need to test this switch by looking at the electrical schematic for the dryer and testing the switch as indicated.
5) The knob on the switch that chooses the heat setting could be pushed onto the shaft in the wrong position so it points to "hot" when it is actually set to "fluff." The simplest way to test this is to choose a heat setting one click, either direction, from the one it is on now. If you get heat, the knob is pointing to the wrong place.
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