Pressure washer tires

posible bad or frozzen left caliper

Sounds like a bent a arm or axel, Castor and or camber is outta alignment

remove tire
remove axle nut
remove 3 bolts holding hub in
sometimes may need to hit hub with hammer after all bolts out to get it to release

Check the tire on the front of the car for a broken belt in tire. Look on the back side for a blug,swollen area on side wall of tire. Raise the front of car and block the rear wheels, spin the tire by hand and look on both sides as tire is rotating for anything unusal. Hope this will help you.

Need to check the entire front end. Start at the Neck stem Bearings then fork straightness- Fork oil level- Axel straightness- wheel straightness-wheel balance.
Good luck.

You will need to replace the old axel with a hollow quick release axel of the same outside diameter and the correct length to fit between the outside of your rear forks with the nuts and washers in place. In other words you will have to rebuild the hub of your rear wheel. It is arguable as to whether it is easier and cheaper to just buy a new wheel with the quick release axle already in it and just switch the cassette over. You will have to make a trip to your local bicycle repair shop for parts anyways so you might as well do a price comparison. Remember you will need bearings nuts washers and a tool to remove your cassette. Ask and they will probably switch the cassette over to the new wheel for you for a nominal fee. I used to charge $5.00 for this if the customer wanted to switch the tire themselves. It was an extra $5.oo to switch the tire.

After lifting, carefully pry calipers back (slightly) just enough so front wheel will spin freely. Remove speedometer cable at wheel (if you have one). Then, put a phillips screwdriver through hole in front axle (this just gives you something to pull the axle out with). Then remove the big axle nut. Then remove the lower axle half-clamps. These are the little nuts on bottom. Some forks only have one, & if this is the case, then use the phillips to pull the axle out sideways while supporting tire. Assembly is the reverse of this procedure.

First remove some air from the tire so that it will be able to make through the forks once its loose. standing in front of bike facing it. on your left side of wheel is a bolt at the axel that should be a large allen/hex head bolt loosen it to take pressure off of axel. You will see a large hole on that same side of axel. I usually put a large screw driver through this to give me leverage for turning the nut on the other side of the wheel which is your next step. There may also be a cotter pin on one of the sides, Im thinking the right side but I'm drawing a blank since the bike isnt sitting in front of me right now. If you see one of course take it off and use a new one when you replace it. Before going much further you will need to remove the brake caliper. It will be heald on by two bolts that are probably dull gray in color and are obviously holding it to the fork. Dont let the brake hang once its loose. Prop it up so there isnt tension on the brake line. Go back to taking the wheel off. Use one hand to hold the screwdriver or other leverage device that you've stuck through the hole on the left side of the wheel and the other to turn the nut on the right side of the wheel. Take notice of washers and spacers and where they go. Laying down a piece of cardboard as a tray and using a sharpie to label what things are and where they go has always been helpful to me. Once the nut is loose you may need to do a little "hammering" to pursuade the axel to come out towards your right. I have hammering in quotations because you'll want to avoid actual metal on metal hammering. Just some slight tapping should get you going. And dont lose sight of those spacers and washers. They can role to the most inconvenient places. Once the axel is on its way you should be able to grab its end and pull the axel on out then pull the wheel forward and down through the forks.