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Re: gas dryer don't heat, pilot ok
The ignitor is coming on so that means you have power to the gas assembly. Next the flame sensor should shut down the ignitor when the bi-metal inside it bends from the heat. This kills power to the ignitor, which allows for the power to activate the coils. The coils snatch open the gas valve and allow for ignition. The raw gas hits that screaming hot ignitor and ignites into a glorious flame, raising the temperature inside the drum. While that flame is on, the control thermostat is monitoring the heat within the drum. When the temperature gets to a round 140 F then the power gets killed to the gas assembly by the control thermostat. If all of that seems to be happening for say, the first time, then suddenly the ignitor comes on then shuts down and no flame comes out, then you have weak and intermittant coils. Replace these puppys:
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Check for lint build-up. Verify that the pilot/ignition system is working properly. If the flame starts, then goes out, the flame sensor or capillary thermal sensor may be dirty or bad.
If it isn't a gas problem, unplug the dryer, then check for a thermal breaker on the motor (a reset pushbutton, usually on or near the motor wire terminal access). If this is tripped, vacuum the lint out of the motor vent slots and manually verify that the motor and drum turn without excess drag.
That unit has an electronic ignitor. You should not have to lite the pilot. There is no pilot to lite. If the dryer is taking longer then normal to heat. Check your vent to the outside. If the ignitor is not turning on it could be the ignitor, flame sensor and or thermal fuse. Check D.I.Y. Appliance Repair Troubleshooting to see if there is anything that can help you there.
Be sure that you have checked the thermal fuse. The part is tested using a multimeter set on Ohms (impedance). Remove the fuse from dryer and read impedance touching the fuse contacts with the two multimeter probes. If impedance is Ohm infinity (open), then the fuse is bad.
If the fuse is OK because tested good or replaced, then the problem is either one of the three thermostats located in the heating group, or the heating element. All parts are tested similarly to what described for the thermal fuse. If any of the parts read open (infinity), then the part is faulty. After finding the defective part remove all the lint from heating assembly and air duct. The lint causes overheating and blows thermostats, fuse or element.
The pilot light has a thermal sensor above it to determine if the gas is burning or not. If the pilot light goes out, it cools and then the gas line automatically closes so that you don't get a constant stream of gas. When the sensor dies, the same thing happens -- no gas for the pilot.
Replace that sensor.
If your dryer is electric, it's most likely a thermal cut-off or the heating element. if it's gas, it's probably the thermal fuse. i do lots of these each week. 90% of the time it's what i just explained. good luck :)