Question about Maytag HAV2558 Top Load Washer

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Maytag top load performa, put clothes in , fill up and now the agitator is noisey, looked under washer belt appears to be loose 2-3 inches in play, should I replace belt,or something else to repair noise coming from agitator

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Thats normal tension on the belt if the agitator is making noise the cams within the agitator are worn (loud clicking or popping noise during wash) the agitator will need to be replaced

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have may tag wash model nu mav5920eww i just hooked it up tried reg wash it filled with water then would not continue to wash went to pause mode


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Maytag Performa, Noisey spin cycle, now does not work


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Washer was filling but not aggitating,


remove the dispenser in the top of agit . under it is a bolt. remove bolt. it holds it down . if it won't pull by hand then we use a ( agi tamer. this is a split inner tube type/very flat with a split in it . slide under agit and add water and up it comes . 5 min. .. i don't think something is under the agit I belive the trans is failing . but you need to look . . agit needs to be removed to repl trans anyway ..mm

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The belt is not doing it's job. It could be that the belt is worn, if so a replacement can be bought from a Maytag dealer. It is also possible that the belt is just not under the proper tension. Maytag motors are mounted in a slide, and tension is applied by a spring. if the grease in the slide gets old and hard, the slide will stick making for a loose belt. To access, you'll need to remove part of the cabinet. Pop the top loose at the front, remove two screws at the top of the front panel, and release the clips at the bottom to remove the front panel. Free up the slide with some light motor oil and re-assemble.

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# Balance the load
# Level the machine
# Inspect the water pump for a blockage
# Inspect the coupling
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1 Answer

Doesnt agitate and there is a gronding noise during wash and spin


A common problem with noises from washing machines has been the under wire that may come out of small clothes. In the washer they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! If the tiny cloth  is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the washing machine, replace the cloth.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
 


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1 Answer

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I had the same problem with you a couple days ago. I disassambled the whole machine and i found out that the belt worn out and the motor also losen so i am looking for parts to replace.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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I have had the same problem and found that the teeth on the under side of the agitator had been worn down to nothing... I assume this is from years of over loading (not from me) and so the agitator could not spin any more... i would tighten the bolt that holds th agitator on and it would come loose after a few loads. So my solution was to get a little bit longer bolt and newer plastic washer and tighten it as tight as i could and it seemed to work. Versus buying a new agitator base that would cost about $20-$30 and would have to wait for the part to be ordered. hope this helps

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