My dryer is running and heating. However it cuts off after just 5-10 minutes of running sometimes it does run longer. The sensor does not seem to be sensing that the clothes are still wet and need to run a full cycle.
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Re: Kenmore Elite model 110.63932101
Some models have a thermistor that also senses moisture in the exhaust air. If you remove the kick panel on the bottom it is a black sort of oval shaped part with 2 small wires on top. It is right on the blower housing. you might try taking a resistance check on it. All kenmores have a tech sheet behind the top control panel. just remove the rear cover and it is in there. It will tell you what the resistance should be. But my gut feeling is if the dryer is heating up its not a heat problem or any kind of sensor. I think you have a vent problem. Check and see if there is a good hard flow out the vent. If not replace the dryer vent and also remove the front panel of the dryer and clean out the part wher the lint filter go's in and also the blower wheel itself. This style dryer has a bad habbit of clogging up in the 2 places I decribed. Good luck
There is a sensor bar usually two on the inside of the dryer either in the front where the lint trap is or in the back right corner u will have to take the machine apart to ensure that the wire is firmly connected to thsoe sensor bars that would be the first thing i would recommend u check symptoms are itruns for about ten minutes and cuts off and clothes are still damp but time cycle works fine.
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If exhaust is blocked or restricted from back of dryer to outside of home it will cause the dryer to over heat the high limit switch. Repeated overheating will weaken the over load switch and it will need to be replaced if normal operation can not resume without restriction. Sea Breeze
check for blocked vent tube.You should have a very strong flow coming out.If it is weak it will run badly.It is a common call.If its not weak air flow than run the dryer for at least 20 minutes.Open the door and if has no heat inside .......change the split coils. Please Rate This !!!
You may need to do some troubleshooting. This can be done with the machine unplugged - you may have to activate the start switch, belt switch (if it has one) and the motor centrifugal switch manually.
Tip for troubleshooting 220v systems - clip one lead of a ohm meter to either L1 or L2 on the terminal block. It doesn't matter which one. According to the tech sheet (under console) follow the path for current from your clipped terminal, through the heating element, to the opposite terminal. All the readings should be less than 100 ohms, until you reach the failed part. Confirm failure by disconnecting a lead from the suspected part, and test only that part.
Live troubleshooting is sometimes slightly easier, but much more dangerous than the procedure described above. - It is definitely not recommended for beginners, or for professionals, if it can be avoided.
the motor overload can caouse that problem in that case new motor is needed if the dryer turn right back on after it turns off the even heat control board in panel bad if it humms are no noise after turn off and you have to let cool down the motor is the problem
The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check:
1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST.
2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer.
3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on.
4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad.
5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat.
6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms).
7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up.
I hope this helps you.