The burner coils will get hot but not hot enough to boil water. I'm wondering where to start troubleshooting or if this sounds like something I need a professional for.
Also, I'm not sure if this is a related problem, but the bake element inside the oven went bad just before the burner coils stopped working. I removed the bake element and tested the resistance and it was no good. I am waiting to receive the new element so I don't know if there are any other problems with that.
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Re: All 4 stove burner coils only work partially
You should check electricity coming to the range. On the back of the range you will find small square cover which cover power cord connections. Be very careful not be shot by electricity. It should be 240V(between red and black wire) and 120V (between red and white and also black and white wire). If it is than you have a shortage or some broken wire inside the stove.
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You will need to replace the burner switches for the burners that are not functioning correctly. It also sounds like you have a problem with the OCU (oven control unit), this part is known to consumers as the clock. Do a Google search for the model number and find a supplier for the parts. All three of these parts will easily cost over $300 all together. Also the model number you listed in missing the last 2 letters. Locate the sticker which contains your model and serial number. This sticker will be on the oven frame when you open your bottom drawer.
When the burner arced out it probably also ruined the switch. Most switches on a standard electric range have 5 wires. 2 wires to the burner. 2 hot wires from power and a smaller wire which connects to the indicator light marked P. It is easy to test the switch Unplug the stove. Turn the suspect switch on wide open. Check for continuity between the 2 terminals going out to the burner marked H1 and H2 If you cannot get a reading then the switch has failed. Note: when replacing the switch usually on most stove the replacement will not be or look like the original HOWEVER it will still have L1 and L2 H1 and H2 and P but the terminals are not always in the same order. If you fail to correctly connect the new switch you will fry 2 switches when both get turned on. Ouch!
This could be a problem with the gas regulator, gas supply pressure or the burners need to be cleaned. Here are the cleaning instructions for the burners. If you are still having problems with the burners I would recommend having the gas pressure & regulator checked.
You could do the repair yourself. Much more information is needed.
Is your oven spark ignition or hot surface ignition ? A valve may be opening only partially. This can happen on a hot surface ignition system when the glow bar is starting to malfunction. Need to know more details to be of real help.
Sir, I think the top oelement is for broiling ONLY. It should not turn on when baking. The clicking may be the oven heating up.
How far apart were the oven temp instrument and the digital?
Don't expect them to match...they are inaccurate.
1. Heat water until it boils. Place digital therm in boiling water until it comes up to 212deg. If it is not at 212 in boiling water, record the error.(this gives a rough calibration to the digital)
2 Turn on oven, set to 350 deg, place digital therm on rack. Wait until oven reaches 350 (on stove) and read the digital. Note the difference between the two
Shut the breaker off!
These are the exact symptoms that a tenant of ours reported for their range. I went to check the range and found that one of the power wires on the terminal block in the back of the range was burning itself up. It had actually started a small wire fire.
You need to pull the range out of it's hole and unplug it. Remove the panel in the back above where the cable goes into the range. Examine the power wires and terminal block carefully, because I bet you'll find one of the wires is burning up and needs to be repaired.
Please write back and let know what you find.
Smooth tops take a little geting used to than a coil top range....Make sure you have good flat cookware. NO GLASS COOKWARE. (ie vision ware.) Once the burner is set to high, it has to heat the glass, then the pot, so it does take about 2 min loger to boil, If you want to simmer, then i suggest bringing the item to a rapid boil, and then cutting back the heat to below the 1 on the range. and adjusting from there. All smooth top glass ranges do work in this manner. Most people can adjust to the switch, but not everyone can. there really is no problem with your range. BTW i work at sears, and i am surprised that no one helped you.