Question about Kenmore 73503 Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Broken compressor There is a funny noise coming from the refrigerator, and the temperatures are rising, will not get cold. I believe the compressor is broken. Do you know where I may be able to purchase a compressor for my refrigeratore, it is a Kenmore, double door fridge top, single drawer freezer bottom, and is stainless steel, also has an internal ice maker, and filtered water output? Thank you!

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Don't run out looking for a compressor until you know its what you need. Then go to someone that is familiar with that manufacturer. Physical size and placement of the in and output lines as well as height electrical connections and capacity and refrigerant used are all at consideration for domestic refrigerators.

So try this first if you feel able if not spend for a professional check out.

First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

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SOURCE: Vegetable and fruit crisper drawers freezing foods

I had the same problem. Apparently the problem is the main control board. According to the technician that came out to fix mine there is a design flaw and these boards are very sensitive and can blow a circuit or malfunction from the slightest power surge. What happens then is that the control board doesn't "tell" the fan to turn on and off at the right time so the fridge and freezer warm up too much before the fan kicks in and then it cools everything down but since the fan isn't running at the correct intervals and circulating the air all of the cold air settles to the bottom which causes the produce in the drawers to freeze while the top shelves get warmer. I had done a fair bit of research before calling GE and came to the conclusion that this was a common problem. So I pressed them and was able to get the fee for the part waived (before I made the service call appointment) which was around $150. The part now has a 5 year waranty which I find funny, because I'm not sure why it wouldn't have that upfront as my refridgerator is only 2 years old. Whatever!! Unfortunately, unless you have indepth knowledge of refridgerator repair there is no way around the service call and labor. Anyone buying a new model of refridgerator (any company) should consider an extended waranty. The service tech also told me that all refridgerators made after 2001 are required, by law, to have an electronic mother board which in all likelyhood will fail at somepoint prior to when you are ready to buy a new fridge!

Good Lucak!

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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My refrigerator is located in a fold garage ... A whitish liquid is leaking from the bottom of it ... Any idea what could be wrong


What you're seeing may be the oil in the system if the refrigerant system has failed leaked out - which I suspect it has.

Refrigerators do not work well in cold areas, as when the fridge's interior is cold and the compressor shuts off, the ambient temperature causes the refrigerant gas to turn to a liquid and return to the compressor. When the temperature inside the fridge rises enough to turn the compressor on - it fails catastrophically as a compressor can only compress a gas, not a liquid.

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There are lots of things that can cause cooling problems. One of the most common causes of poor cooling in a frost free refrigerator is a defrost system failure. In such a case one or the other compartment may appear to be keeping proper temperature but that too may change in a short period of time. The fridge compartment's temperature rise is usually the first to be noticed

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Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils?
The refrigerator side is usually where your defrost timer, discussed earlier is located. Also on this side is where your temperature control, or controls , are located, These controls are what are called thermostats, and have a direct line to the compressor. This means when the temperature has reached the desired setting the thermostat will kill power to the compressor in the same manner the terminating thermostat does with the defrost heater. Some models have a temperature control thermostat for the freezer and the refrigeratot, but some only for the refrigerator. The most noticeable sign of a thermostat being bad is the food in the refrigerator side will freeze, usually on any setting or the machine won't come on at all, including the fans. Problems are usually noticed on the refrigeratot side first. The last thing to discuss is The freezer and the refrigerator both are rising in temperature, but the fans are running, etc. Normally in cases like this a humming sound followed by click is heard or sometimes just the click. The humming sound is the compressor trying to start but failing and the click is the relay breaking contact. On newer machines, especially ones that fall under the whirlpool umbrella, the compressor relay, also called the start device has failed and needs to be replaced, but also the compressor itself could be bad. Well, thats the basics. I know it's long winded but I wanted to put something that you could print out and use as reference. Good luck.

Jun 21, 2012 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

My Kenmore 106.60232900 blows sort of cool air, but nothing is cold


Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils?
The refrigerator side is usually where your defrost timer, discussed earlier is located. Also on this side is where your temperature control, or controls , are located, These controls are what are called thermostats, and have a direct line to the compressor. This means when the temperature has reached the desired setting the thermostat will kill power to the compressor in the same manner the terminating thermostat does with the defrost heater. Some models have a temperature control thermostat for the freezer and the refrigeratot, but some only for the refrigerator. The most noticeable sign of a thermostat being bad is the food in the refrigerator side will freeze, usually on any setting or the machine won't come on at all, including the fans. Problems are usually noticed on the refrigeratot side first. The last thing to discuss is The freezer and the refrigerator both are rising in temperature, but the fans are running, etc. Normally in cases like this a humming sound followed by click is heard or sometimes just the click. The humming sound is the compressor trying to start but failing and the click is the relay breaking contact. On newer machines, especially ones that fall under the whirlpool umbrella, the compressor relay, also called the start device has failed and needs to be replaced, but also the compressor itself could be bad. Well, thats the basics. I know it's long winded but I wanted to put something that you could print out and use as reference. Good luck.

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1 Answer

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Many residential refrigerator / freezers are designed to work at temperature considerably above above freezing. Most modern refrigerator / freezer have a single electric thermostat - located in the fresh food compartment. This lone thermostat will control the compressor to keep the fridge (fresh food) section at the desired temperature (usually between 34 - 38 degrees F). The freezer will get colder regardless of how cold it is already whenever the fridge thermostat turns the compressor on.

Now that you see how the thermostat works, let's look at what happens when the fridge is placed in an unheated space - like a garage. In winter time, the temperature can drop considerably below 38 degrees. If the outdoor temperature remains cold enough, for long enough - it will affect the thermostat in the fridge. The temperature inside the fridge could drop below 38 degrees, preventing the thermostat from telling the compressor to turn on. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer compartment slowly rises from the normal -10 to 0 F degrees. It will continue to rise until it is the same temperature as the fresh food compartment or until the thermostat in the fresh food compartment tells the compressor to turn on again. This means the freezer contents will thaw.

If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.

Good luck!

Feb 13, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi we have a 6 year old monogram 42" side by side refrigerator. Lately it has been making a strange noise when cycling and the temperature rises from 32 to 41. It eventually returns to the freezing...


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.



If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator
Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

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1 Answer

Freezer FZ175 Red Warning Light is flashing


The flashing red light indicates the problem in the temperature of the unit.The temperature is rising over then required so the red light is flashing. There are some possibilities that you will have to get checked.
1) Make sure your freezer/refrigerator door is closing properly and sealing all around.If the doors are not closing properly then this can lead to rise in temperature.
2) If doors are proper and closed properly then other possibility is to check the compressor .Check the compressor is it running properly or its not running.Beside the compressor there is a fan if the fan is running the compressor is turning on if fan is not running the compressor is not running.If the unit is not getting very cold this also indicates the problem is in the compressor section.A weak or faulty compressor causes the temperature rise problem.
3) If compressor also checks out ok then the other possibility is fault in the thermostat of the unit.The thermostat is getting overheated and this is causing the red light flashing.
4) Before replacing any part in the unit try the defrost procedure first .Keep the unit unplugged from power and keep both the freezer/refrigerator doors open .let it remain unplugged for 24 hours.Then reconnect the power and check for some time.If the unit works properly that means defrost procedure solved the problem.But if same error light comes On flashing that means the faulty part needs replacement.
You can get required parts for your refrigerator from the on-line sites like :--
www.partsselect.com.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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2 Answers

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It may be some reasons, but I believe the sealed system is broken and the gas leaked, so there is no freon to produce some cold temperatures.

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