Question about Kenmore 73503 Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Don't run out looking for a compressor until you know its what you need. Then go to someone that is familiar with that manufacturer. Physical size and placement of the in and output lines as well as height electrical connections and capacity and refrigerant used are all at consideration for domestic refrigerators.
So try this first if you feel able if not spend for a professional check out.
First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:
Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.
If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
I had the same problem. Apparently the problem is the main control board. According to the technician that came out to fix mine there is a design flaw and these boards are very sensitive and can blow a circuit or malfunction from the slightest power surge. What happens then is that the control board doesn't "tell" the fan to turn on and off at the right time so the fridge and freezer warm up too much before the fan kicks in and then it cools everything down but since the fan isn't running at the correct intervals and circulating the air all of the cold air settles to the bottom which causes the produce in the drawers to freeze while the top shelves get warmer. I had done a fair bit of research before calling GE and came to the conclusion that this was a common problem. So I pressed them and was able to get the fee for the part waived (before I made the service call appointment) which was around $150. The part now has a 5 year waranty which I find funny, because I'm not sure why it wouldn't have that upfront as my refridgerator is only 2 years old. Whatever!! Unfortunately, unless you have indepth knowledge of refridgerator repair there is no way around the service call and labor. Anyone buying a new model of refridgerator (any company) should consider an extended waranty. The service tech also told me that all refridgerators made after 2001 are required, by law, to have an electronic mother board which in all likelyhood will fail at somepoint prior to when you are ready to buy a new fridge!
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 06, 2015 | Refrigerators
Feb 17, 2008 | GE GSH25JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...
Jun 21, 2012 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
Jun 15, 2012 | Kenmore Refrigerators
Feb 13, 2012 | Refrigerators
Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.
you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Jan 16, 2011 | GE Monogram Side by Side Refrigerator
Jun 04, 2010 | Refrigerators
Sep 26, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Sep 14, 2009 | Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator
Apr 15, 2009 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...
Jul 22, 2014 | Kenmore 73503 Stainless Steel Bottom...
119 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: