I am replacing an old mechanical White-Rodgers thermostat with a digital 5-2 day programmable one from Honeywell (Model # 6300B). The wires I have coming out of the wall are connected to R, G, Y, O, W2, and E. Pretty self-explanatory: just match the wires to the new thermostat. But the new Honeywell thermostat doesn't have a W2 or E terminal.
Based on the diagram I have on the installation manual-- C or X, B wires, do not connect
G or F wires, connect to G W or W1, H, O/B wires connect to W O/B --unused terminal in between-- Y or Y1, M wires connect to Y R or RH, 4, V connect to R Rc or R connect to Rc
I have a fully electric system: 2-stage heat, single-stage cooling. Voltage at the thermostat is 24v
I want to think that W2 can just go to W and E stays disconnected. But before I do anything, I just want to make sure. Thanks for the help in advance
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Re: Thermostat Wiring: W2? E? Where to connect?
You have a heat pump. You need a thermostat for "Heat pump with Electric back-up heat". Make sure the 'stat has either an "aux" (auxilliary heat) or an "E"(Emergency heat) terminal. The wiring instructions will be provided with the thermostat.
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I am guessing but the thermostat is either faulty or is in conflict with another thermostatic device in the system. The room thermostat measures the air temperature in the room but with a modern intelligent boiler there will be other sensors measuring all sorts of things including the water temperature.
Personally I prefer to have thermostatic radiator valves rather than a room or zone thermostat.
"Say" 22 is an example... You should input whatever temperature where you are comfortable ...
Our master bed room has it's own controls... but usually the vents have been blocked shut... or have magnetic diverters (plastic shields) on the vents... where the thermostat is all warm & happy across the room while I'm freezing against the glass...
A happy medium has to be struck
- between the IVORY-TOWER instruction writer... and
the sun soaked rain drenched REAL WORLD in which
we live (I'm just saying).
Programmable THERMOSTATS are get (fun)... but in reality
the automatic features are soon abandoned... (harmony)
and the REMOTE favors the fickle.
need to know what thermostat you are referring to
the coolant thermostat has no connection to the ac system
if it is the ac thermostat the it maintains the cabin temperature by activating the ac compressor as required
if you are referring to climate control then that controls the heater flow to keep the ac temperature at a set temperature with the ac compressor operating all the time
so as an answer to you question , check the climate control module
Chances are the fuse on the circuit board is for control circuit protection. Take note of the location of all the thermostat connections on the circuit board and remove them. Do this with the power OFF. Replace the fuse and re establish power. If the fuse did not blow, the problem is in the wiring to or from the thermostat. It could even have the insulation rubbed through and making contact with the side of the boiler or a mouse could have chewed through the insulation causing a short to a metal object.
Once the issue with the thermostat wiring is resolved, reinstall the low voltage connections and you should be good to go.
You have one of two problems. Either the capacitor for the motor has failed or the motor has failed. I would turn off the power to the unit and see if you can locate the capacitor and remove it. An ac supply or electrical supply house can match up the capacitor. This is relatively inexpensive. Otherwise you will need a new motor.
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Re Co stands for Recovery Mode. That means if you have programed your thermostat to be at say 72° at 5:00 then it should kick on in Recovery Mode several minutes before 5 in order to reach that temperature. This is normal and doesn't indicate that something is wrong, just that your thermostat is trying to reach or recover the programed temperature.