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The problem is the dryer was taking too long to dry. Ive taken off the front and started the dryer, the heating element glows red ang ignites the gas, then goes out after about 45 seconds. The ignitor and the gas shuts off.

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  • goldce70 Dec 16, 2008

    The house is less than 2 years old and the vent pipe is 4" plastic that runs through the slab. There is a short section of flexible aluminum (6") between the dryer and the pipe section. All is clear. Watching the dryer run wiyh the front off, the gas comes on then the ignitor lights it and burns fine, may burn for several minutes to less than a minute. I talked to a service tech and he said it sounded like a gas control on top of the valve. I located one at a repair shop for less than $20.00. I will let you know if this takes care of the problem. And to answer your question the vent only takes 2- 90 degree turns and the outside is a standard aluminum covered flap. Overall is about 8 feet long.

  • goldce70 Dec 17, 2008

    I am able to re-attach the door with the front off so air flow is not a problem. I will not be able to see how strong the air flow is outside until I replace the part on the gas valve which should be today. That is good information about the plastic building static, I will keep a close eye on that. The dryer is about 5 years old, and the model number is MDG7400AWW. I will let you know when I get it going again, thanks.

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If you run the dryer with the front off, the air is sucked in the open front and out the vent. The combustion air (and heat) is not drawn away from the burner, which causes the burner to short cycle. You may also have this same condition with the front on if you have a poor vent. Don't use any flexible venting. Use rigid aluminum pipe and adjustable elbows if needed. Clean the vent out and make sure the outside vent is clean and air flows out the vent with a strong flow. The outside vent should be a 4 inch vent, not a 2 inch vent flap. That normally will solve your problem. Rarely, a gas valve may cause these symptoms, but make sure the vent is good first.

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

  • Carl Schulzetenberg
    Carl Schulzetenberg Dec 15, 2008

    How about some feed back? What about what I said didn't you like? Tell me about what your venting material is, how long it is, what the end cap is like, and how many turns in it.

  • Carl Schulzetenberg
    Carl Schulzetenberg Dec 16, 2008

    Thaks for the feedback so far. If you are going to watch the burner with the front off, you need to cover the dryer drum opening with something (like cardboard) so the air is drawn through the burner and then the drum, then out the lint filter and into the vent pipe. Burner will short cycle if not given proper air flow. Do you feel a strong air flow at the outside vent? Again, that covered flap should have a four inch opening at the bottom, not a two inch. Also, I can see why they used plastic (if it is in a poured concrete floor) but that is not a recommended vent material. If there ever was a over temp situation, the plastic can melt, burn, and give off toxic fumes. Also, plastic can build static charges and result in build up of lint and restricted venting. Also, how old is the dryer, and what is the model number? Please keep me advised.

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The dryer does not dry the clothes. Also there is moisture under the dryer. the heating element glows when the dryer is first turned on then after a few seconds (approx 10 seconds) the element stops...


Hi,

If your
dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have not taken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then you need to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should take place. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causes for your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about
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heatman101

Jan 16, 2011 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

Tip

Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer Does Not Heat


Electric

First , check the circuit breaker to make sure they are on . Be sure to UNPLUG the dryer , while checking with an ohm meter . When checking WITH power , BEST to have another person available in case of emergency . I do know of 1 person killed while working on his dryer .
A dryer operating on 240 volts , sends 120 volts to the timer and 120 volts to the motor . In between these two , are the thermal cut-off , and the element ( this is the basic operation parts ) . The 120 volts from the motor , goes directly to the element if selected for heat . The timer circuit , sends the other 120 volts , thru the operating thermostats , then thermal fuse , then thermal cut-off , then high-limit thermostat , then to the element . Usually , not ALL the time , the thermal fuse ( number 1 ) is the problem . The heating element ( number 2 ) is usually the problem , if the thermal fuse is good .
If the thermostats , element , and thermal fuse check good with an ohm meter , remove 1 wire from the element and check with a meter , which side is NOT getting 120 volts . Trace the wire which will either go to the timer ( occasionally ) or to the motor ( extremely rare ) .

Gas

On a gas dryer , for no heat , or , heats for a short time then runs but no heat afterwords until cooled down , first check that the electronic igniter , glows red . If it does NOT glow red , then check power to the burner ( 2 wires ) . If no power , then the thermal fuse is bad . (On electric dryers , the thermal fuse keeps the dryer from starting . On gas dryers , it keeps the dryer from heating . The thermal fuse , is a 1" long , or oval , white piece , with 2 wires going to it ) . Also if it does not glow red , the igniter itself could be bad . Again , check with an ohm meter . If the igniter glows red and clicks off , but no gas , the sensor could be bad . This sensor , is mounted to the side of the burner box , and when the igniter gets hot enough to ignite the gas , the sensor opens , sending power to the coils , which open dispensing the gas to heat the dryer . To check the sensor , with the drum removed , start the dryer , and after the igniter gets red , pull one of the wires OFF the sensor , and the gas should ignite . Do this very carefully , as electricity WILL be in the wire pulled off . If the dryer heats for a short time then stops heating , the problem will be the burner coils . These coils will get warm from the electricity going thru them , and will " open " ( short ) internally , until they cool down . Then heat again for a short time , then open , until cooled .
Most of the time , either the thermal fuse ( 1 ) or the coils are bad ( 2 ) or the igniter is bad ( 3 ) .

........A thermal fuse is a white 1" long torpedo looking piece , or , a white oval shaped piece , with 2 wires going to it .

NOTE1 : The thermal fuse keeps an electric dryer from starting and keeps a gas dryer from heating .

NOTE2 : If your dryer heats but the clothes do not dry , then a venting problem is obvious , as a dryer either heats or doesn't heat . Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent from the dryer . Dry a load of clothes and if/when they dry in the normal amount of time , this tells you either the vent hose is kinked , maybe pushed back too far , or , the outside vent is blocked , or , the vent in the wall is restricted to the outside .

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NOTE3 : If your lint screen is on top of the dryer , the element , thermal fuse , and thermostats are behind the rear dryer panel ....If the lint screen is behind the dryer door , then the element , thermal fuse ( located behind the lint screen housing ( 2 screws ) , and thermostats , are located behind the lower front panel .

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1 Answer

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