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AC is likely to be the alternating current supply from the transformer.
I suspect two pairs of AC terminals are provided to allow one of two different chimes to be selected with one pair and the common being used for the 4 chime pattern and the other pair and common used for the 8 chime pattern.
The front, side and rear terminals are self explanatory connections from each bell-push with the supply (or return) or other wire from each bell push connected to the COM or common.
The manufacturer's website doesn't feature a wiring diagram though might send you an instruction book on demand. The site does include a note specifying only 18 gauge wire is to be used...
Put the batteries in the door chime. To transfer an MP3 to the door chime, connect it to a computer with a USB cable. Open the folder to view files and drag the new (short, <= 20 seconds long) tune into the folder. Eject the door chime (like any USB hard drive) and remove the USB cable from the door chime.
Next press the Tune button to cycle through the tunes on the door chime for the front door chime. Stop when the desired tune is played. That will be played any time the front chime is pressed. If you add the jumper to pin 8, the door chime will ding as that is the rear rear door sound. For the front door, make sure that the switches (1-7) on the push button match those for the door chime.
Some door chimes of this type are designed with dual capability so that pressing the front door button produces the full Westminster chime and pressing the back door button produces a single chime. Your wiring may have gotten reversed inadvertently during the changeover
There is a little "diode" that should have been provided as part of the unit...it's a little wire with a B-B-sized circuit in the middle that has to be connected to the push-button at the door. This "extends" the circuit from the button to the chime unit for the full 8-notes. Hopefully you still have that part (I just about threw out mine before I read the instruction manual thoroughly. My diode just "shorted" after I power-washed my house...and I am in search of that particular part. I contacted Heath Zenith...hopefully they will give me a solution on how to get only that part. In any case, you need that diode to get the chime to play correctly.
I couldn't find a manual for the LR2982, so I'll give a general description of how to wire a door chime. Most chimes have 3 contacts. F (Front), R (Rear) and C (Common). Some have just two contacts. If your chime has more than 3 contacts do _not_ follow these instructions.
Inside the junction box on the wall where the chime will be mounted, you should have at least 2 cables (usually brown) each, with at least two wires (usually red and white) each. One of those cables goes to the transformer and the other cable goes to the door button.
The beauty of it is that since it's only 24 volts or less and _polarity_ doesn't matter, you don't need to know which cable goes where for a _single_ door button scenario.
For _single_ door button wiring, pick a wire (say the red) from one cable (doesn't matter which cable) and connect it to the "C" contact on the chime. Pick a wire (say the red) from the _other_ cable and connect it to the "F" contact on the chime (if the chime has 3 contacts). If the chime only has 2 contacts connect it to the only contact that is left.
Then all one needs to do is twist the 2 remaining wires together (both white) and cap them off with a wire nut.
If your junction box for the chime has 3 cables in it, the extra cable goes to a rear door button. In that case you _do_ need to know which cable goes to the _transformer_. You can pick up a cheapo voltmeter for about $10 just about anywhere. The cable that reads anywhere from 16 to 24 volts AC between the red and the white wires is the cable that goes to the transformer.
Make sure one of those wires from the transformer goes to the "C" contact (pick one, say the red). Now you know the 2 remaining cables go to the front and rear door buttons. For now, just connect a red from one of the remaining cables to the "F" and one red from the other remaining cable to the "R". Then just twist the 3 remaining white wires (including the white wire from the transformer) together and cap them with a wire nut.
If the rear chime sounds when the front door button is pushed, just swap the wires on "F" with the "R"contacts..
The 515N number is a transformer part number, do you have a photo of the chime you have? Is it wired or wireless? Is it a newer chime or and older model? Check Nutone's website to see what model you have, then search their site for the model you have. The model page will have an instruction sheet PDF file download of the instructions.
From User Guide:
Interference from a similar unit operating nearby:
a) simply remove the batteries from the push button and door chime units and rest for 10 seconds, this will erase memory
b) Insert the batteries into the push button and door chime units, the door chime unit will give 2-beeps to indicate that it is ready for the new registration code. Press the Push Button once, it will generate a new operation code randomly and send a wireless ignal to the door chime unit and it will sound to indicate that new operation code is registered and memorised.
(Note with this unit SX85R the door chime is mains powered, not battery powered, but above instructions are the same)