Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer

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Whirlpool washing machine "lid switch" is broken My lid switch came completely apart! I have a grey plastic switch (paddle) and two tiny springs. How do I lift the top of the washer to re-assemble the switch or should I just buy a new switch assembly? Thanks

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  • tnlsmommy Dec 29, 2008

    The lid switch has come completely apart from the machine and is hanging by the wires. How can I replace this part?

  • penclartst Mar 09, 2009

    Moved into my new place, hooked up the washer, ran a load, and it tripped the breaker. I opened it up, and the Lid Switch has come apart exposing wires. How do I reassemble it?

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    looking for the left side lid spring assembly


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Found online:
Disconnect everything, power first. Keep the drain hose above the top of the washer if the bucket’s full of water. If there are clothes in it, remove them to a water-tight location (like a cooler or something).
Put the unit on an appliance dolly and get it onto the driveway before removing the drain hose from the rear of the unit. Water will gush out for a while here.
Unscrew the two hex bolts at the top of the unit that attach the plastic tabs to the console. Unscrew the screws in the end caps that attach it to the top of the cabinet. Unscrew the two hex bolts at the base of the rear panel that attach it to the base.
Pull the console forward and up a little to dislodge it. Slide it out of the way enough to get access to the two brass clips. Put a flat-head screwdriver in the hole towards the front and pry the clip forward a little to release it. Remove both clips. This releases the rear panel from the top of the cabinet.
One cable goes from the console to the top of the cabinet: this is the lid switch. Disconnect it.
Pull the cabinet forward now that everything is detached. It helps to have someone holding the console and rear panel while you do this. Remove the cabinet.
Place it on something to prevent scuffing, like a few towels or a small animal. The lid switch is the only device here. Unscrew it from the ground (one hex screw) and from the inside of the lid (two Phillips screws). Push the grey tube holding the wires out of the clip holding it in and release the plug from the top of the lid.
Take this to a parts shop and ask for another. It’s around $25-50 depending on how desperate you look.
Snap the gray tube back in, screw in the ground and switch. Close the lid: it should click now. If not, check that you actually screwed the new unit in properly. Yes, the new one.
Replace the cabinet and the rear panel, then the clips and the console. Replace all screws and bolts. Make sure there are no spare parts. Reattach all the cables and hoses and plug power in last.
Test it by putting it on a small load and let some water into the tub. Then stop it, move to spin dry, and start it with the lid open. Nothing should happen. Close the lid (you made sure to replace the drain hose, right?) and it should start spinning and pushing out water.
Congratulations, you saved over $100 and only lost a few hours of your life doing it.
And now you know where my morning went.
Pro tip: don’t let the lid fall down anymore. Place it down, don’t drop it.

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

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It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.

  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.

  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

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1 Answer

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Look in the hole to see if the paddle on the switch seems really loose.  These switches (and now I am talking about a Kenmore machine that I believe uses the same switch) are made of two plastic pieces that snap together.  Sometimes they break, sometimes they just come apart and can be snapped back together.
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That would be the old lid switch failure. Look for a broken "strike" that is the plastic thingy that pushs against the lid switch, look for a broken actuator, thats the lever that works the switch when the strike hits it. I have here some repair photos that show how to get to the switch on a kenmore. But I have most models covered at my website so take a GANDER.
If you cannot get an answer there then hunt me up. I ain't hard to locate.

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If the washer seems to complete all of its cycles, but it doesn't spin: 1) Be sure the load of clothes is not lop-sided. If the tub becomes unbalanced, it may spin erratically or not at all. Open the lid after 2 minute gap and reposition the clothes. This automatically resets an off-balance shut-off switch. Close the lid and re-try. 2) Check the lid switch and the tab on the lid that strikes it. If the plastic tab is broken, the washer may halt during the spin cycle. If the switch doesn't click when you press and release it, it's probably broken. If you're experienced at home repair, you can remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed; otherwise, call an appliance repair service person. 3) The belt may be loose, worn, or broken. If you're fairly handy, tighten or replace the belt, otherwise call an appliance repairperson. Pl post back results

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