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Could be the air flaps of the heater unit are set incorrectly or not working at all or possibly the heater radiator is blocked or semi-blocked or perhaps there is something wrong with the heater hoses or the heater water valve if one is fitted.
These things need checking before a cause can be established.
I am sometimes called upon to flush out a heater radiator. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't and sometimes it causes a leak and the heater radiator must be replaced. Not an easy job on many vehicles made in the last couple of decades..
Check your radiator for cold spots when its warmed up. I think you may have some blockage either in your radiator or the hose going to your heater core. Also check the serpentine belt tension and the pulley on your water pump.
you have wasted money on fixing what has not consequence on the oproblem
overheating is from 4 things
1--- no/insufficient water in the cooling system--air lock in system- fill radiator to cap level and bleed air out
2--blocked radiator cores -- have a radiator shop do a flow test
3-- fan not working--no power from relay, ECM. coolant temp sensor , fuses-- have an auto electrician check the circuit
4--- blown head gasket /cracked head-- have a compression test done
Coolant system is a closed system. If you are loosing water there is definately a leak somewhere. Check all hoses after filling the system and letting it run until it's warm. Be careful when checking most systems have the water at 185-210 degrees once the vehicle is warmed up. Also check the Heater Control Valve. It allows hot water to travel to the heater core when you set the ac controls to "heat". Could be bad and leaking there. But bad hoses are the most likely culprit. Only takes a pinhole.
Check to coolant level after it cools off and check to see if coolant-water mixture is correct. If those are ok. You could have to much air in the coolant system. Most radiator caps will automatically vent the air out of the coolant system. It could be as simple as a coolant cap that gone bad. Or you may have a air bleed valve on it and you need to bleed the air out manually. To bleed it you will have to crank engine and get it warm. Touch top radiator hose to see if its warm. If not then the thermostat has not opened yet. That could also be the problem. After it gets warm open the bleeder valve if equipped and bleed all the air out. Once the steam and hot air from the valve starts to be gone and pure coolant coming from the valve. You have successfully bleed the coolant system. Cool engine back off and check coolant level once more. Hope this helps.
1) Check your water pump is working OK and 2) You may have an airlock in the system. Take the expansion or header tank cap off, set your heater control for hot and exterior air. Start the car and run it till warm. With luck you'll run any air locks out of the system. While warming up, and being very, very careful, try squeezing the main radiator in and out tubes (The fattest) this may also move any air locks on. BUT BE CAREFUL, STAY AWAY FROM AND FANS AND PULLEYS. IF NOT SURE, DON'T DO IT OR STOP THE ENGINE FIRST.
With luck, you should soon start to feel warm air coming from the vents.
Assuming they checked the controls under the dash and everything is working, lets try to bleed the air from the cooling system. An air lock in the heater core could stop it from getting warm. You will need a gallon of antifreeze and a jack to raise the car. Here we go: remove the radiator cap. Set the parking brake, transmission in park, block the rear wheels. Jack up the front of the car so that the radiator is higher than the engine. Start the engine and put the heater controls on the hottest setting but don not turn the heater on. With the engine running, look in the radiator, the coolant at this point should not be moving, or flowing through the radiator because the thermostat has not reached the temperature required for it to open. If the coolant is flowing at this time, then the thermostat is open and should be replaced. Let the engine warm up and watch the coolant level. When the thermostat opens up, the coolant level will drop, and you will be able to see the coolant flowing or moving in the radiator. Add enough antifreeze to fill the radiator ack up. The coolant level will probably drop again, Add more coolant as required. Repeat this process until the coolant level stabilizes and no longer drops while there is flow or movement of the coolant. Replace the radiator cap and lower the jack. Turn the heater on. If the problem was an airlock in the heater core, you should now have warm air blowing from the heater.. Something else to observe is the cooling fan for the radiator. If the electric cooling fan was running the whole time the engine was running, then the switch controlling the fan is bad. The fan should not come on until the radiator is hot. If it runs all the time, the coolant won't get hot enough for the heater to work. Let me know is this works.
If set to position cold and hot air comes out, there is either a leak or there is a" two way valve" that hasent switched over. One needs an aircon tech check it out.(Two things to check though, look if radiator fan is working and if condenser is clean).Important factors..