Grinder setting stops at drip. Can't turn further to espresso.
I want to try some different grinding settings. I can't get the hopper to turn further past the drip setting. It simply gets stuck. I have taken apart and cleaned and tried with and without beans in hopper and also with and without power on.
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Re: Grinder setting stops at drip. Can't turn further to...
Another suggestion is while the grinder is off, turn it up side down and rotate the bean hopper from coarse to fine a couple of times. This will clean out grounds that have gotten into the threads and it will prevent the bean hopper from not turning to a finer grind. If you start to get a clog in your grinder, open it up to a coarse
grind for a few seconds. The coarser grind will clean out the chute
and then you can turn it down again while it is still grinding.
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There are many ways to clean oily residue from your burrs. You can order a grinder cleaning tablet from online stores called Grinds by Urnex. Some people use white rice but if you don't get it all out you will have rice in your coffee. You can take them apart and clean them manually but if you don't reassemble it correctly you will not get a good grind. I think the easiest way is to get some cheap light roasted beans ( doesn't matter if they are old ) but never use shiny beans because shiny beans have lots of oil.
Set the grinder to a very coarse setting, on a Rocky 7 higher that you currently use. You can turn it to a larger # any time but it has to be grinding to turn it to a lower #. Pour a cup of cleaner (beans, or rice) into the bean hopper and turn the grinder on. Grind the whole hopper through the machine. If you use grinds just a couple of #'s higher is all you need. Once you have cleaned the burrs you will need to grind some of you beans to purg the cleaning debris for the burrs and chamber. When you see no more cleaning compound you can turn the hopper back to where it was leaving the motor run. Once you get it back test with your beans.
Excess water going into the drip tray is usually an indication of the grind being to coarse. If your pucks are not solid but just fall apart this is the case. When the grinder is grinding, turn the big knob in the bean hopper down 2 numbers smaller and see if this changed. If you have a second knob in the bean hopper change the to the plus side, but not all the way to the plus. Do this first before you change the grind setting. Excess air between the grind allows more water in the brew unit and when it is done it goes into the drip tray.
It is fairly easy (if you have the instructions I'm going to give you) to take the grinder apart to clean it out completely. This would be the best way to clean it - by removing the burrs so you can get right into the grind chamber and grinds delivery chute to clean.
At least vacuum it out as best you can and don't add any beans until it has had time to dry out.
OK ... first take off the water reservoir and set aside. And unplug the power cord. While you're at it, remove the drip tray and set aside and remove the brew group and set aside. You'll want to rinse off the brew group very well.
Next remove the three screws that hold the bean hopper and lift the bean hopper out and set aside.
Lift off the round rubber top from the grinder - it has four slots that line it up so it'll be easy to put back on later.
Now, notice the ring with gear teeth on the edges? This is the grind adjustment that turns around when you turn the grind adjustment knob. Twist that ring counterclockwise and you'll see a painted mark - twist counterclockwise until that mark is pointing to about 7 o'clock. Now you can lift out the center part (the burr) - you'll need to wiggle it a little and you should be able to lift it out - notice the painted mark that would have been pointing to about 3 o'clock. Brush this burr clean with a stiff brush (a toothbrush would work) and set it aside for now.
Vacuum all the mess out in the grind chamber - you may need to loosen the coffee grounds up with a toothpick or a stiff brush.
Once you've vacuumed out all the grinds, there is a "chute" where the coffee grounds go through - it's hard to see because it will be caked up with coffee grounds. This is at about 5 o'clock in the grind chamber that you just cleaned out and goes towards the front of the machine. Poke something in there (a chopstick or a wooden coffee stirring stick works well - or the handle of your brush) to loosen up the caked up coffee grounds and vacuum again.
To really get this clean, tip the machine onto its back and open the front door (you've already removed the drip tray and the brew group, right?) You'll see a little trap door with a triangular shaped handle - this is right directly above where the funnel of the brew group would be if the brew group were inserted. Pull down on that triangle and the trap door will open. Vacuum and brush out all the grinds you can and you should see the other side of the "chute" that you were trying to clean out earlier in the grind chamber. Poke your chopstick or stirring stick in there and loosen all the packed coffee grounds (they'll be falling back into the grind chamber now). If you have a can of compressed air you can blow it in there and get coffee grounds all over your kitchen (oops).
You may have to go back and forth a few times between cleaning under the trap door with the machine on its back and then setting the machine upright and vacuuming out the grind chamber and then putting it on its back again and cleaning under the trap door.
You may want to tip the machine completely upside down so any coffee grounds can fall out. This is all very messy but you'll have a nice clean grinder when you're done.
OK ... now that everything is clean and dry - here's how to put it back together and get it aligned correctly.
Put the burr back in with the paint mark pointed to 3 o'clock. Make sure that the outer ring still has its paint mark pointed at about 7 o'clock. Wiggle the burr a bit to make sure it is sitting all the way down in place and then rotate the outer ring clockwise a little - as the ring gets to about 10-11 o'clock it should have locked the burr in and started to pull it down. Verify that you cannot lift the burr back up (if you can, then you didn't get it fully in place and you need to turn the ring counterclockwise again back to 7 o'clock and make sure the burr has snapped all the way into position and try again).
OK - now that you can feel the burr being captured by the ring as you turn the ring clockwise, turn the ring all the way clockwise (the paint mark will be pointing at 3 o'clock. Put the rubber cap back on top of the burr and work it down so the four tabs are fully through the four slots.
Notice the straight plastic piece with gear teeth on it to the right side, just above the burr. This is the dose adjusment - push it all the way towards the back of the grinder.
Now get the bean hopper and set the grind knob to zero and the dose knob all the way to + as far as it will go. Set the bean hopper in place and you may need to wiggle the knobs slightly until they line up in the gear teeth and the hopper can set fully down in place. Verify that you can turn the knobs and see the adjustments moving below (the outer ring should turn and the straight rod with the gear teeth should move forward and backward. Turn the three screws back in to hold the hopper in place.
With the grind setting at 7 or 8, you should see the paint mark on the outer ring at about 1-2 o'clock when you look through the clear plastic of the bean hopper - and this is a good starting place for your grind setting.
Clean the brew group really well (no soap - just water) and put it back in the machine. Put back the drip tray and the water reservoir and plug the power cord back in.
Now that the grinder is completely empty and clean, the first time you fill it with beans and make coffee it will take a lot longer than usual for the first cup to grind - it may tell you the bean hopper is empty - just select a coffee again so it grinds some more. Once it has ground enough beans to get them moving through the chute it should start making coffee again.
Hope that helps --- it isn't as hard as it sounds.
I'm guessing the problem is that the grinders blades, or the parts that do the grinding have become somewhat dull, (opposite from Sharp.) and no longer can get to the beans like it used to.
Cleaning the machine properly might improve its performance.
CLEANING/MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS 1. Be sure plug has been removed from outlet.
2. Beans can be removed from the hopper by lifting off the lid and pouring excess beans out. Hold down the Manual button to cleanout any remaining beans.
3. The bean hopper, bean hopper lid, grind chamber, and grind chamber lid can be washed by hand with hot, soapy water or placed in the top shelf of a dishwasher. Dry thoroughly.
a. Remove the bean hopper by rotating counter-clockwise bringing the selector past grind setting 18, align the arrows and lift up. Make sure the hopper is empty.
b. Remove grind chamber by pulling toward you.
4. Remove the burr grinder, once the bean hopper has been removed, by grasping the metal handle and lifting up. Use the brush to remove grinds or wash by hand. Replace the burr grinder onto the unit and rotate until the piece is fully inserted. Push handle down and replace hopper.
NOTE: The hopper will not attach to the unit if the grinder has not been fully inserted.
5. Wipe body of grinder with a damp cloth.
6. Any other servicing or maintenance should be performed by an authorized service representative.
2 things can cause this.
1. the grind is too coarse. That would be the big knob in the bean hopper. Turn it down when its grinding only. From the factory it is set on 8.
2. The grinder has seperated internaly. That is a tough one to fix, as the grinder should be taken apart and cleaned, then reassembled.
Your burr is not locked in. You need to remove the beans from the hopper. Remove the hopper. Remove the burr. Turn the grinder upside down over the trash can. Put the burr back in only make sure that the burr is down. Install the bean hopper and when you turn the bean hopper it should move the burr. Then you can adjust your grind. Make sure that the grinder is running is your going to a finer grind or you could break the grinder. You can turn it to a coarse grind any time.
HI There are 2 knobs in the bean hopper. Turn the large knob to the largest number. You can turn the knob to a larger number any time but it has to be grinding to turn to a smaller number. Now replace everything and make your coffee. Once you have made your coffee you can turn the knob back to a number that was higher than the one you had it on, but only when the grinder is running. If that didn't do it. Sounds like you have a blockage in you grind passage. Try removing the brew group. Then inside on the roof of the machine where the brew unit was setting there is a drop chute where the coffee is dropped into the brew unit. From the left side of the drop chute pull down and back, and it will drop coffee. This will clear an opening that relieves pressure on the passage. There is a passage inside the drop chute area that goes to the grinder. Vacuum it out. It will be on the right side of the drop chute. Once that is cleared go to the bean hopper and follow the first part again.
This fixes almost all the "beans will not feed or beans will not grind"
problems caused by coffee bean dust packed in the burrs. Oily beans
cause this problem more fequently.
a. Pour all the beans out the top.
b. Open the settings up all the way and see what else can be poured
out. Use your shop vacuum to **** grounds out the spout and backward
out the bean bin.
c. Pour in some instant rice and start grinding. Reduce the grind to
a small setting like six and then open the settings all the way again.
(The grinder will not start at a low setting with the rice in it. If
you let it stop, open the settings to about 16 before trying to
d. Pour out the rice and vacuum out the ground rice.
e. Adjust the grinder to your favorite setting and try a coffee grind.
Grind until most of the rice dust is expelled (any remaining trace of
rice dust will not affect the flavor of the coffee).