Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
Start normal load time is set 41 min. time count down skips min. then stops early beeps as complete but the cloths are not dry when beeping
note we did add a booster vent early on when dryer was over heating and stopping
it has worked fine for little over a year. aprox. bit over 2 years old
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: not drying
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
Now, if your dryer keeps failing, it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation was. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this could be the cause of your dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little prevent maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
PS This is not to assume you are abusing your appliance or are acting irresponsible. I just wanted to give you some useful tips, because some people just don't know.
Posted on Feb 14, 2008
SOURCE: clothes not getting dried
Are you sure that the duct is clean and free flowing? If the duct is partially blocked the dryer's efficiency drops dramatically. I would double check the duct at both ends and clean out as required - air flow is very important - with the dryer on - go check the air coming out of he duct outside - if it is very forceful - then the problem is elsewhere - however if only a little bit of sir is coming out - your all plugged up!.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
Fixable and possibly a warranty claim. The timer is bad. You will need to get behind the control panel and remove the timer and replace the timer. First I would call whoever it is that yall bought the dryer through and see how long your warranty is. Most of the warranties are only 1 year. But if you bought a extended warranty then you are covered. The part can be found at repairclinic.com
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
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