Basket will not turn

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

sounds like direct drive gears are bad.. there is a slip coupling that goes over the shaft of the transmission adn assist turning the tub that could be worn or broken. you will have to remove the agitator and check the nut on top of the tub to see if it is tight or to remove the nut and check that coupling.

I'm an owner as you and do all my repair on multiple FAV6800A machines.

I don't feel from the info supplied that you have a drain pump/drain line issue because you do not take a "ND" error code for "no drain" during the wash cycle.....the wash cycle completes. I don't believe you have a stuck slightly open water inlet valve in the machine because I feel the machine would eventually over fill and flood the laundry area in time.

Is there any standing water in the wash basket when you remove the wet clothes after the final Spin Cycle?

I would place the machine in Service Mode and run it thru a Quick Spin Test (with a wet load) and record the fastest RPM speed the wash basket will spin up to.

You need the Service Manual to help you get into Service Mode to do the test. Are you going to DIY or call in repair service?

If you want to run the Quick Spin test I will look for a previous post on this forum where I called out the process steps.

clean your filter

You are going to need this kit 12002213
Your washer features a main drive pulley with a cam riser the releases the brake and allows the tub to spin.
When the motor turns in one direction the tub is locked and the agitator moves back and forth. When the motor turns in the opposite direction the main drive pulley releases the brake and as the water gets propelled out the tub begins to spin. So what can go wrong? When the cam riser gets wear it won't release the brake. The tub won't move and the clothes will be soggy. Here is a great pictorial of what is involved in replacing the thrust kit. along with some manuals and other stuff. My Maytag notes


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Pump out time of 40 seconds sounds good.

No ND error code and you spin up to 850RPM which is max for the machine.

You have no standing water in the wash basket.... I'm scratching my head.

Could you do a Spin Only cycle with that same wet wash load and set the SPIN for Max Extract. After you start the Spin Only cycle put the machine in Service Mode and watch the RPM range. This cycle sets the display to 12 minutes. Let’s see if the wash load remains wet and what max RPM is reached.

""Maybe the pump is not turning on during the spin cycle?"" You have no standing water in the wash basket correct? I feel the pump is turning on or you would have standing water in the wash basket and the pressure switch would have never indicated an empty condition (Low Level pressure switch contacts) to the Control Board. The Control Board would have stopped the wash cycle with a ND for no drain error code.

The pump in the spin cycle will turn on a number of times see if you hear turn on in a Spin Only cycle

I just ran a Spin Only light wash load with about 5 gallons of water in the wash basket. Timer went to 12 min. I toggled into Service Mode to watch wash basket RPM. At about the 5 Min mark (toggle in and out of Service Mode) the wash basket reached 850RPM then a few minutes later it stepped down to 830RPM to end of Spin Only Cycle. You don’t have a water valve stuck open or you would flood/over flow of the machine. Did you here the drain pump turn on several times during the Spin Only cycle?
Rich

We are talking about FAV6800A or FAV9800A TL correct?
If so you need these links the Service Manual and parts look up; here is the Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
If your machine completes the wash cycle with no error code such as ND (No Drain) and there is no visible water in the bottom of the wash basket when you remove your wash load then I would do this test.
Take the next wet wash load that is dripping wet and lets do a Quick Spin Test in Service Mode. During this test test the FAV6800A LED display model will step thru the RPM (revolutions per minute) or goal is to ensure the machine will spin the wash basket up through all Spin Cycle RPM ranges. Any RPM range above 99RPM’s will be shown with a (.) dot after the two numbers displayed i.e. 350RPM will show as 35. 550RPM will shoe 55. And so on.
I’m and owner of the FAV6800A and I’m not sure what the LCD display of the FAV9800A will display.
Enter into Service Mode;
Page 14 of the Service Manual; below I have cut and paste the instructions.

Enter / Exit Service Mode
To enter Service Mode press the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys (simultaneously) for three seconds or until the control beeps.
Now go to page 14 and enter this front panel key pad press to start a Quick Spin Test and see if the machine with that wet clothes load will spin the wash basket to 850RPM.
Quick Spin Test
While in Service Mode, press the Hand Wash
key to start a Quick Spin Test.
Quick Spin test steps are as follows:
1) Lock the lid.
2) Spin to index speed 90 rpm and hold for 60
seconds. Pump drains machine.
3) Spin to index speed 150 rpm and hold for 6
seconds.
4) Spin to index speed 350 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
5) Spin to index speed 550 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
6) Spin to index speed 700 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
7) Spin to index speed 850 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
Pump out.
8) Coast down to 0 rpm chimes 3 times.

Hit the Off button to get out of service mode.

If the machine spins the wash basket to 850 RPM then we need to start looking further. What are your results?

You can check the flow rate of the drain system by again entering Service Mode and turn the Drain Pump on in service mode. I would (hand fill) place 5 gallons of water in the machine and turn on the drain pump see page 16 for Board Output Test.

Enter Service Mode and press the Delicates key. You are now in Board Output Test now press the Presoak key and the Drain Pump will turn on. If your machine pumps out the 5 gallons of water in 60 seconds or less I would say your Sump Cap, drain line connection from Sump Cap to input to the Drain Pump, Drain Pump and discharge line are all working as designed. If the Machine takes greater then 60 seconds to dump the water then you need to start troubleshooting for a drain line restriction or Drain Pump issue…...Rich

I believe this is the direct drive model. Your clutch is slipping. There is a quick easy fix available that I have used in the past. Remove cabinet from washer. Make sure you know the easy way to do this... 2 screws on top back of washer and 2 holding control panel. cabinet tips toward from of unit and off. Real easy... Remove wire harness from motor under basket. Remove 3 screws holding motor to basket. Remove agitator inside basket. 1 screw holds it in place. Remove entire motor and shaft from unit. Clutch is attached to shaft on top of motor. Pinch spring to remove clean everything with alcohol. Insert #10 washer between cup and spring to give a little more tension. Replace and viola.... all should work well.

if it has no belt, seams like the clutch is slipping in the transmission, hence the burning smell

You may try the speed selection switch.....Ive had problems with these.