Question about Gateway FPD 1730 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor
I have 5 of these that do not give a green LED when plugged in. However, I am getting voltage output from the power board. Since this is obviously a common problem with these units, does anyone have any experience as to what the problem is? I have found some info but it relates to models with separate inverter & power boards (these have combo).
No caps are visibly blown.
-Should I change them all anyway?
-What's a good method for testing a cap with my DMM?
Fuses test OK with beep test mode on DMM.
-Should I test using the Ohm function?
No shorted IC's.
-What's another good method for trouble shooting component failure without schematics, service manual, or expensive test equipment?
I know I should use schematics, but I'm self taught and it's still a bit complicated for me. They're also hard to find. And I don't have an O-scope yet.
Please only reply with helpful suggestions. ie rather than saying
"Well your screwed without the proper test equipment."
"Well your screwed without the proper test equipment. I recommend getting a Zx1500 O-Scope by Acme Co. It has the capabilties you'll need for TSing LCD monitors, and it won't break the bank."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Replacing Inverter Board
I did some poking around and only found a few places that sold inverter boards for this monitor. Ebay has one that sells for about $80: http://cgi.ebay.com/Backlight-Inverter-for-Gateway-FPD1930-LCD-Monitor_W0QQitemZ160070918225QQcategoryZ174QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWINQ3aPOST0Q3aRECOQ3aBINQQcmdZViewItem I wasn't able to find any specific instructions posted, however, taking a typical LCD panel apart and replacing the board shouldn't be too difficult. The only hard part is not getting shocked, which is why this is not a job for the typical user. Anyway to disassemble the typical LCD you remove the pedestal from the back of the LCD then remove the screws around the back of the LCD, remove the back and look for the inverter board. Typically it is covered with a metal shield; again the hard part is knowing how to correctly handle the parts. Considering you can buy a new 17" LCD for $120 to $150 (and has a 1 year warranty) you might want to consider investing in a new monitor instead. If you have any other questions let us know, otherwise please don?t forget to rate this posting.
Posted on Feb 06, 2007
good luck ive had this problem with my samsung 2232bw for 2 months, replaceded the monitor and every hardware piece in my machine an dstill the same problem
ive had help from microsoft, and all manufacturers of my hardware, no solution
give up i have
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
The 7812 device is a voltage regulator. Either the reg has failed or the input to the reg is no longer approx 12volts. It should be more than 12volts so that the reg can control the o/p .
Posted on Sep 05, 2008
This is a follow up to my last submission about my discovery of bad caps on the FPD1960 LCD flat screen Gateway 19" computer monitor. To recap: After two and a half years of excellent graphics quality, my monitor suddenly went blackout. After pushing the power-on button, the screen would come on for 1-second, then go black. Repeat, again and again, same result; comes on for 1 second then blackout. THE REPAIR: After carefully but forcefully prying open the case, I unscrewed and unplugged then removed the screen and set it aside, then unscrewed and removed the power supply board. Sure as shootin, bulging (and slightly leaking) capacitors were immdiately apparant on this board. That other fella's submission was right on target. Search Wikipedia for "bulging capacitors" to get the inside scoop on this widespread problem. Major manufacturers are well aware of this issue, but fortunately for them it occurs some 2-years out'a the box, and after the warranty expires. This is one time I wish I'd bought the extended warranty! Anyway, I finally got my 5 caps from Ebay in the mail today. Specifically, they are 470uF 25volt 105-degree (use only 105's because some are right near a power transister heat sink---so I'll bet they get mighty friggin hot. After carefully replacing the old caps with the new (you'll need a solder ****** along with your solder iron), I reassembled, powered-up, and began to thoroughly enjoy the fruits of my labor. It's working like new once again. THE CAPS ON THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD ARE DEFECTIVE.
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
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Nov 01, 2012 | Toshiba 65HT2U 65" Class Full HD LCD HDTV
Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
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