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Assuming it is not a battery problem. Is the CR 100 remote the one that came with the amp? If it is there might be something wrong with either the amp or remote. If it is a universal one, then it could be you have the wrong remote code for your amp. Yes it is one that works the amp, but it might not be specific to your amp.
Protect mode is on because something in your speaker wiring is wrong, or you have a broken speaker, or it\'s too late and you already fried one or more of the amp\'s output transistors.
You gotta fix the problem. Not remove the safety guard and carry on with a busted machine.
Look for wires touching between the speaker terminals or on the backs of the speakers. If you done a half-ass job of wiring up then this is the most likely cause.
If you can\'t find bad/frayed wiring, then disconnect all the speakers out the back of the amp. Switch the amp on. Does it trip out? If no, that\'s good. Turn up the volume. Is it still okay? If yes, that\'s good. You haven\'t yet killed the output transistors. If it goes in to protect though, ut oh. It\'s Repair Shop Time.
If the amp is okay, then power off and add one speaker. Power on with the volume down. If it trips either at no volume or when you increase the sound, then you got a bad speaker and you just found it. Repeat the process, adding one speaker at a time. Make sure you put Vol to minimum and power off each time before adding the next speaker.
Make sure it is an subwoofer box of good mounting, make sure you have sufficient power going to the speaker, about half power is recommended, e.g. speaker is 1000w you will need an amp that has at around 500w output.
Ok firstly it will depend on how powerful those subs are seeing that the amp is 800watts you might want to install a sub which is no more than the 800watts or your amp will bum out......haha trust me I know. I had a JVC car radio and it kept switching off everytime the bass was high, or the volume was high because the 6x9's where too over powering for the system to handle. But I'm affraid the amp won't react in that way something will burn. So just ask the sales person for advice when you purchase those subs and highs.....
You could do a couple things if your head unit has all three outputs, then take them and hook them into the inputs. If you have just the front and the rear outputs, hook those to the inputs front and rear. Then hook the output of the 4 channel to the input of the mono block. I hope this helped -Andrew Hawkins
mine is doing the same thing, you can hear a click sound and the channel will die. I think it is a relay or a shunt that trips when something goes wrong with that amp. I dont think it is worth repairing as there are some nice receivers out there for cheap. Maybe just a cold solder joint somewhere? Anyone know where and Ill dive in and resolder and post the results.