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Power switch is broken

How can I obtain a new plastic power switch?

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Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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I have a compaq SR1630NX. I cannot turn the computer on. The green light in the back is on so there is power. I think the switch is bad as it feels broken does not click any more. can I get a new one. What...


Hi Sandy, It might just be that the power button is depressed or that the part that holds the button has been moved back too much.
What I did was remove the power button from the machine, checked the connections to the motherboard and removed then replaced the actual power button from the plastic that's holding it against the front panel of the computer. (it's a gray plastic square that has a black power button) Check that the button depresses when you press it now. For me, it turns out the plastic part that holds the power button was pressed back too much. Removing and then putting it back and pushing it all the way to the front (the actual gray box), fixed the problem for me. Just check that the button from the plastic front panel and the actual button (gray plastic with black lever) are actually working and make contact. Maybe try using it a bit without the front panel?
I hope it may be as simple for you as it was for me. If you do this, just don't forget to remove all power from the machine and remove the plastic front panel from the case. Good luck!

Aug 18, 2011 | HP Compaq Presario SR1630NX PC Desktop

1 Answer

Compaq Presario s3310cl starts when hooking in power plug and will not shutoff using power button. Just started doing this today. Someone said to unhook everything and hold power button in for 20 seconds...


The On/Off switch is mounted inside of the Case Front Bezel. It is
very unlikely that it is broken. The problem is the front bezel
plastic switch (which is not really the switch) is more like a cap or a
knob that comes in contact with the actual switch is somehow broken.
You can remove the front bezel to see I am talking about.
Manually push On/push Off on the actual switch and your system will turn
On and Off like it should.

Jul 17, 2011 | Compaq Presario S3310CL (DF246AR#ABA) PC...

1 Answer

My Gateway Essential 450 won't turn back on from the front power switch. Where can I buy a new switch or is the problem something else?


This is where you can buy a new ATX power on switch,

http://www.axiontech.com/prdt.php?item=78201

The Power On switch is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly.

Age plus the heat developed inside the computer, have made the plastic of the Power On button assembly, brittle.

I suggest removing the Power On button assembly from the Front Panel.

(And disconnect the Power On switch cable from the motherboard.
BEFORE you do I suggest you make a drawing, and possibly some notes, as to where that cable's wires plug into the motherboard)

Computer unplugged from power, follow Anti-Static Precautions.

I would suggest using a hairdryer set to low heat, and moving the nozzle slowly back, and forth at the plastic until it slightly softens.
(Or you can use a bowl of VERY warm water. The switch is no good now anyway)

Is the problem something else?
It's either a bad Power On switch, or a bad Power Supply.

(Provided you are sure the surge protector is getting power, AND you have ensured that THE receptacle in the surge protector that the computer is plugged into, has power.

I have had a few surge protectors where just THAT receptacle was bad. Surge protector power LED light was on. Monitor, printer, and router had power. Just ONE receptacle was bad)

There is a simple test to perform to see which component is bad Power On switch, or Power Supply.
IF you do not know how, and wish to, please state in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Jun 15, 2011 | Gateway Essential 450cs Deluxe (ESSENTIAL...

2 Answers

I have the emachines model W3107 and am having problems turning it on and off. I have called emachines to order the part but they will not assist me because my computer is out of warranty. They do not even...


The On/Off switch is referred to as an ATX Power On switch.
Thought I would post that so it would make the switch simpler to search for.

This is one example of an ATX power on switch that I have found fits Many computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

The plastic button you push is the Power On Button assembly.
This plastic part can be heated with a hair dryer to soften the plastic, and easier removal of the defective Power On switch inside it.

{Hair dryer nozzle moved slowly back and forth on the Power On button assembly)

Usually there are two to three plastic tangs that protrude from the plastic housing, of the Power On button assembly.
These tangs are what hold the Power On switch in place.

After constant repeated heat from the inside of the computer, and due to age, the plastic becomes brittle. Breaks easily.
Heating the plastic should help prevent breakage.

Since the old Power On switch is going to hit the trash can anyway, you can also lower the entire assembly down in a bowl of fairly hot water. This to will help soften the plastic if a hair dryer is not available.

The new Power On switch has wires coming from it which connect to pins on the motherboard.
The plastic front of the computer is the Front Panel.

The area of pins on the motherboard, that the wires from the Front Panel connect to, is the Front Panel header.

The eMachines W3107 desktop computer uses an FIC K8MC51G motherboard.
(First International Computer)

http://www.fic.com.tw/product/motherboard/AMD/K8MC51G.aspx



This is the download page for the motherboard manual, for the FIC K8MC51G motherboard,

ftp://ftp.fic.com.tw/motherboard/manual/socket754/k8m-800m/

Click on the top file name >
25-11110-00(3-21-2006).pdf

After you click on the above file name, you may be staring at a white blank page for up to 30 seconds.
After the first page comes up it may take additional time to fully download the file.
{Took 40 seconds to see the first page, and the file was fully downloaded.
Medium speed DSL connection}

Page 20 has the Front Panel Connector (Header) pinout.

Orient the board visually so we are both looking at it in the same orientation.
Processor to the Top, Ram Memory slots to the Right.

The Front Panel Connector is to the bottom right corner, BUT not in the corner itself.
It is the second connector of pins, over from the Right outside edge of the motherboard.

Two rows of pins.
5 across the Top, 4 across the Bottom.

The Pins across the Top are numbered Odd.
Starting from the Right side of the motherboard going towards the Left,
Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9

The Pins across the Bottom are numbered Even.
Starting from the Right side of the motherboard going towards the Left,
Pins 2, 4, 6, and 8. There is NO Pin 10. Just a blank spot.


A) Pins 1 and 3 are for the Harddrive Activity LED light. (HDD LED)

B) Pins 5 and 7 are for a Reset switch, IF used.

C) Pin 9 is Not Connected. {Not used}

D) Pins 2 and 4 are for the Power On LED light.

If a Dual Color LED is used it connects to the header to the Right of the Front Panel Connector.
The one in the very bottom Right corner of the motherboard. {3 Pins}

E) Pins 6 and 8 are for the Power On switch.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 03, 2010 | E-Machines eMachines Desktop PC

1 Answer

Compaq Presario SR1620NX Desktop won't turn on


I may state too detailed, and over simplify in my solution.
This is not to insult your intelligence, but an endeavor to explain thoroughly.

To bypass the Power On switch, one uses a jumper wire to jump the Soft Power On wire, to ANY Ground wire.

The Soft Power On wire has Green insulation, and is located in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.
ANY wire that has Black insulation is a Ground wire.

To explain:

This is HP Support, and the Motherboard Specifications page, for the Compaq Presario SR1610NX desktop computer,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00378480&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=1127350

I would like you to scroll down the page, until you come to the motherboard illustration.
(Under the - Motherboard layout and photos - heading)

This illustration represents the motherboard from a top view, and with no hardware components installed.
(No Processor, Ram Memory modules, power cables from Power Supply plugged in, and so on)

At the top right of the motherboard is a small rectangle, with an inscription in it.
(The tiny printing reads - SMSC with LPC47M997NR under it)

Immediately below this small rectangle, is the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.
Two vertical rows of 12 socket holes.
(Next to it is printed - ATX 1)

Now here is a much better view of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and the corresponding connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The photo to the far left, shows a better view of the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
(Yours may be an opaque whitish plastic. It also will not be located on the outside edge of the motherboard)

The photo in the middle, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable not plugged in.

The photo all the way to the right, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged in, and shows the Green Soft Power On wire.
Also shows the Black ground wires.

The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the motherboard.

Looking at the middle photo once more, note how the power wires come into the connector.
This is the Back of the connector.

Each wire ends in a metal terminal.
The metal terminal is approximately 1/2 inch in length.
This means the power wire goes down in the connector pretty deep, before it ends in the metal terminal at the Front of the connector.

I use a wire that is approximately the same size, (Gauge), as the power wires, for the jumper wire.
Strip around 1/2 inch of insulation, from each end of the jumper wire, then twist the wire ends.

The jumper wire should be around 3 inches in length, and bent into a U-shape.

Power supply unplugged from power, insert one end of the jumper wire into the socket hole that contains the Green wire.
(Soft Power On wire)

The jumper wire end is stuffed down into the socket hole with the Green wire, right next to the Green wire. You are pushing the bare stripped end past the insulation of the Green wire, with the intent of touching the metal terminal end.

Insure that the stripped bare wire, is touching the metal terminal end, as best as you can.
The stripped end may have to be longer than 1/2 inch.

(An alternate form of jumper wire is a paper clip straightened out, then bent into a U-shape, with wraps of tape in the middle for insulation. I have used this method also. I just don't recommend it for solutions)

Power supply plugged back into power:

With the one end stuffed down into the socket hole for the Green wire, hold the jumper wire by the insulation, and touch the other end down into ANY socket hole that has a Black wire. (Ground)

Warning!
There may be a spark. You may wish to wear a glove on the hand for the jumper wire.
The voltage is 5 Volts (DC)

Two common flashlight batteries are 3 Volts. (DC. Each battery produces 1.5 Volts)

To me it isn't a big deal if there is a little spark. Wanted to advise you beforehand, so that you would be aware, though.

The Power On button that you push is made of plastic. Located inside it is the Power On switch.
With finesse the Power On switch can be removed, and a new one inserted.

(I use a hair dyer on low heat setting, and move the hair dryer back, and forth to gently soften the plastic, so that tabs can be eased to one side, and the Power on switch removed.

The Power On button/switch assembly can also be lowered, {Removed from computer}, into a bowl of very, very warm water, to soften the plastic Power On button. The switch will be removed, and thrown away. The plastic Power On button is then dried, and readied for the new Power on switch)

(Barring the worst case scenario, if a correct Power On switch cannot be obtained, a Power On switch can be used by itself, and would just hang outside of the computer. Not very aesthetically appealing, or professional, but the computer will work again)

I have found that this generic Power On switch, seems to be a correct substitute for most computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Ebay may have one in Computers and Networking>Computer Components.

Older computers, used a different method to turn the Power Supply on.
(PSU - Power Supply Unit)

The Power On button pushed against a long metal rod, which in turn pushed against a Power On switch, located in the Power Supply.

The Power Supply in your computer always has a constant 5 Volt standby power, when the Power Supply is plugged into power.

When the Power On button is pushed, it pushes against the Power On switch.
Inside the switch is a convex shaped thin disk of metal.

The 'plunger' of the switch, pushes against the middle of the convex metal disk.

The outside edges of the disk are connected to Ground.
When the convex disk flattens, the middle touches a Positive connection.

This contact is Momentary.
The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.
When you let go of the Power On button, the disk resumes it's convex shape, and the brief connection is broken.

The Power On switch wires connect to pins on the motherboard.
The area the pins are in, is the Front Panel header.
(A connector on a motherboard is referred to as a Header. The plastic piece on the front of a computer is a Front Panel. Sometimes referred to as a Front Bezel)

To remove the Front Panel to your computer, far enough to easily access removing the Power On switch, the Power On switch wires will have to be disconnected from the Front Panel header, on the motherboard.

So will all the wires leading from the Front Panel, to the Front Panel header on the motherboard.

Looking back at the motherboard illustration, the Front Panel header is located on the very bottom right of the motherboard.

JFP1
(Junction Front Panel 1)

You will note that there are two rows of pins.
Four across the top row, five across the bottom row.

BEFORE (Not shouting) you attempt to remove the Front Panel, it would behoove you to make a drawing, and notes as to where those wires go.
If wires come loose, I don't have a way at present to tell you where they go.

It has been a while since I have worked on this series of Compaq Presario's. The wires from the Front Panel may just end in a single connector, that you simply line up with the corresponding pins on the motherboard, and plug the connector in. (On?)

The connector is oriented, by the pin in the Front Panel header that is missing.
Four pins across the top, with one missing.
Five pins across the bottom.
The connector will also have one hole blocked off, to match the pin layout of the Front Panel header.

The other wires from the Front Panel though, may not end in a single connector.
These headers are for the audio connections on the Front Panel, USB ports, and so on.

I'll await your diagnoses to see if a new Power On switch is required, or a new Power Supply.
If it is a new Power Supply that is required, I will give recommendations, and why, if you wish.

Should you have any questions, I will try to reply as speedily as possible.

May 23, 2010 | HP Compaq Presario SR1620NX...

2 Answers

Compaq 6410nx won't come on unless switch is removed and the pins are touched.


Is the aesthetics of the computer a factor?

May sound like an inane question, but there are those of us that can live with two wires hanging out to a switch.

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

This Actually IS the usual style, and shape of most Power On switches.

Once you take the Power On button mechanism, out of the Front Panel of your computer, you may see this type of switch, incorporated into it.

Advise use care, as Power On button mechanisms are made of plastic, and the power on switch is usually held in by tangs formed out of that plastic part.

The tangs have the tendency to snap off easily. Warm water usually helps when removing the old switch, by heating the plastic up. Dry accordingly, install the new switch.

Or, you may want to peruse a computer repair shop, and see if they have one available. Sometimes they tear down old computers, and save the switches.

This information stated, goes more towards the Mom and Pop type of computer repair shops, not the fancy, 'I want to sell you an expense computer, before you go out the door', shops.

The Power On button you push is just a plastic device, that pushes against one of these types of switches.

Pushes against that little 'N-ipple' that sticks out of the switch.

Just for edification, as not many techs bother to take a Power On switch apart;

Viewing the photo of the switch in the link I provided.

1) You'll see a square case. Metal square top for half of the case, plastic for the bottom half.

2) The n-ipple that sticks out, is a cylindrical shape that is molded to the middle of a flat square base.
It's made of plastic.

3) The metal top is square shaped, and has a hole in the middle. There are tangs that come down the sides of the metal top.
These tangs are bent over, and this is what holds the metal top, onto the plastic square bottom piece.

4) Inside under the movable part of the switch itself, (Number 2 above), is a square, flat, thin sheet of spring metal. (Very Thin)
It is convex shaped.

Pushing the n-ipple in of the switch, depresses the concave shape of the flat spring metal piece.
Makes it flat.

When it is flat, it contacts two terminal contacts at the bottom, of the plastic bottom piece.
The two terminal contacts, are attached to those two wires you see sticking out of the switch.

Letting go of the Power On button let's the flat spring metal piece pop back into it's convex shape.

All the things you never wanted to know, huh?

Jan 25, 2010 | HP Compaq Presario 6410nx (DA235A#ABA) PC...

1 Answer

Console button broke for power on


Hi,
You would have to replace the front bezel of the system as you cannot just source the power button. the same is available below

http://www.impactcomputers.com/5069-8828.html

http://www.tamayatech.com/parts.php?g=50658988

Thanks for using fixya
proton

Aug 15, 2009 | HP Media Center m7060n PC Desktop

2 Answers

Front Panel switch


Please contact the reseller that sold you the computer

Mar 27, 2009 | HP Pavilion a450n PC Desktop

1 Answer

Dimension E510 LCD Monitor with broken power switch


Hi,

Thanks for responding. Nothing happened when you pressed in the power button and the warranty had expired; Dell was no help so don't bother. I read that there were tab(s) on the plastic power button that had broken off and no longer engaged the power switch. I "solved" my monitor problem by drilling through the plastic case between the power button and the minus button, pulled out the plastic power button and pressed the switch with a flat screwdriver to turn on the monitor. Now I leave the power on all the time and put a piece of black masking tape over the space where the power button was. Not the best solution I'm sure, the hole isn't pretty, but it works. If anyone else wants to try this solution be careful when you drill through the plastic case because the switch you want to engage occupies the space between the buttons, exactly where you are drilling. If you drill through the switch you might as well throw the monitor into the recycle bin. I expected to find an actual button switch and was surprised to find a flat, 2 prong circuit switch instead. Good luck to all.

Matt

Aug 22, 2008 | Dell Dimension 2400 PC Desktop

19 Answers

How to fix a dell monitor dimension 2400 power button broken


The last guest left us hanging with, "easy fix" so, I ventured ahead to see what I could see by opening up my lcd, which was a puzzle in itself. After UNPLUGGING the monitor and removing the stand and the 4 obvious screws in the back, turn the monitor onto its back and placing your palms against one side of the monitor, and using your FINGER TIPS, gently pull back the plastic lip away from the LCD screen. Move along the lip, doing this a little bit at a time. You'll hear and feel it snap loose. Repeat on the remaining three sides. It may take a few rotations to free all the sides, doing a little at a time, so as not to put undo stress on the plastic that is not yet loose. The bottom lip from behind which lies the offending "on/off" button will not move as freely as the other sides because of the ribbon cord that attaches the circuit panel to the main body. So STOP pulling when you feel it become taught and carefully turn the monitor onto its face to complete the face's removal. Undo the cloth tape that secures the ribbon cable to the monitor. This will give you the necessary slack you need to do your dirty work. BTW, we're not disconnecting the ribbon cable from its connections- that would be bad - just remove that haphazardly placed piece of tape used to keep the thing snug and save it for when you're ready to close it back up. OKAY! There a four tiny screws that affix the green circuit board. You'll need a thin, jewelers type phillips head or a one from a synthe-sized tool set to remove these. Now, if your issue is like mine, you'll see when you again carefully remove the circuit board, that the on/off button has cracked off of the piece that holds it. This is why the button remained stuck in one positon when it was depressed. Re-align it so that it is uniform to the other buttons and place a few small strips of cut electrical tape to hold it in place to the end where it broke off. Crazy glue or the like won't give the button the flexability it needs and will probably just crack again. What the tape (I layered 3 strips) will do, once the circuit board is scewed back, is allow the button to return to position after it's pushed. I just did this and so far, after a dozen on/offs it's still working. Good luck. Go have a beer.

Sep 05, 2007 | Dell Dimension 2400 PC Desktop

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