The fan that runs when cooking quit, not the external exhaust fan. Everything else is still working but leaves the inside of the microwave warm for a while. It did leave an odor in the kitchen, hot electrical odor.
Took it apart to get at the cooling fan, plugged temp cord to watch the cooling fan not run to verify the problem. Problem is the cooling fan started working, so it's O.K. for now, we will see if it lasts. Darn Gremlins!
It is vital that the
cooling fan runs, or the magnetron will be destroyed.
If you or someone you
know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
There
should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very
helpful
when troubleshooting & testing.
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If this is a new installation, or if this ove is new to you, the following may apply: on some ovens the vent fan can be flipped to either exhaust air out of the house, or re-circulate it. Could it be in the wrong position? You would have to take the oven down to determine this.
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include your brand name and the full model number from the tag in or on
the unit, your symptoms, as well as the answers to these questions: - When you try to microwave are the inside light, internal cooling fan and turntable all working?
- Is there any unusual noise or is it louder or quieter than normal?
(A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a
shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an
empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can
be bad without that sound.) We have a sound clip here of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working.
Take the 2 screws out of the top outside grill. Take the 1 screw out of
the top of the control panel. Lift the panel slightly and it will tilt
out and hang there. Try a cook cycle with the panel in this position.
If it works, your problem is interference from your magnetron. It is
very common on these units. I do not recommend adding EMI shielding
with tin foil as many have been suggesting on the help sites. If you
are still under warranty, call GE. If not, call GE and threaten to sue.
This is a known problem with these units and they should have been
recalled.
This is an interlock issue or a faulty temperature sensor. Both will require the outer casing to be removed for inspection. Basic tests can be done with a continuity tester or cheap digital multimeter with resistance checking facilty (Radioshack)
The sensors for these types of fans are normally attached to the roof of the cooking cavity, little silver components with two or more wires.
Check these out with a meter if any are open circuit then they need to be replaced.
I assume you're talking about the hood fan which ventilates the cook top and blows air through the grille across the top.
If so, it's okay to use the microwave with that not working, but if you boil something on the stove, an external fan is definitely needed to keep mositure from going up into the microwave controls.
If the cooling fan INSIDE the microwave (behind the keypad) is not working, then you do NOT want to run it unit it is fixed.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
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