I recently changed the 100 amp breaker for the furnace because it what making a lot of noise and was very hot, and it made the main breaker 200 amp went off one morning last week. I changed the 100 amp breaker yesterday, put the furnace on and this morning the upper part of the main box was hot and ther was a smell coming fromm the box. I put the furnace back on oil, but during the day the lights were blinking a bit and the panel is still hot. Should i replace the main breaker 200 amp. Thank you
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Re: my 200 amp Siemens main electric box is heating
This is a dangerous situation! There is a short in the furnace. It is NOT a breaker problem! You need to check the current draw in the furnace circuit, This requires an Amprobe meter. If you don't have one, contact a technician at once! You have a fire hazard!
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Electric furnace I assume- check with amp meter, if amps are below listed on breaker, replace the breaker, [check both the breakers in the furnace and in the house pannel, even if only one is tripping right now, the other(s) may start doing the same thing after you eliminate the weakest link- don't be surprised!] electric furnaces are notorius for "eating" breakers- they overheat the breakers for years then the breakers get weak and trip too easilly... if gas, post more info and I'll try to help further.
if its electric not gas check the main heat fuse in main breaker box . if ok check out by the heat pump outside breaker. than pull off the front panel with power off check the main 220 volt main wires usally thick black with big wire nuts make sure that they are connected well .in the future its always wise to check heat at least twice a year and let it run for about ten mmin let me !!
I am not sure about the heater type, but likely the heater element controller shorted out or the heater elements shorted - hence the black around where the wires go into the electric box. If you're lucky, the wires shorted to the side of the box. With the power off, open up the electrical box, mark which wires go where, remove them from the board, remove the wires from the electric box, then using electrical tape, tape up the exposed ends of the wires. Spread them out so they do not touch each other. Turn on the 60 amp breaker - if it trips, then your wires are bad and need replaced. If it does not trip, then the problem is with the heater. Do not let anyone near the wires when testing them! Don't forget to turn off the breaker if it does not trip. Again, turn off the breaker if it did not trip.
Hello, if the furnace does not work at all the main thing to check is your line supply voltage. low voltage and fuses. Make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped and verify that you are getting 120 volts to the integrated control board at the L1 nd neutral terminal at the board, if not most likely the breaker is tripped, secondly make sure that the fuse on the unit is good, usually it will be on the integrated control board if it is a newer furnace or on the side of the furnace at the switch box if it is a older furnace, make sure the fuse reads 0 ohms with your meter. Lastly check the transformer, check Resistance on both sides of the transformer and you should get resistance, if not replace transformer, let me know if you have any further questions I will be glad to assist you.
Make sure that there is no water dripping off of the heat exchanger onto the ignitor. Reconnect all electrical connections on the circuit board and make sure the ground connections are clean. Test the polarity of the power coming in with a multimeter. Reverse polarity will fry ignitors. Make sure the furnace is on it's own breaker.
Heat pumps provide good heat until the tempurature drops below 35-40 degrees. After that there isn't much heat to extract from the outside air and then either the gas furnace kicks in or the electric heat strip does the job of heating the air. if you have heat strips, I would check your breakers in your panel and sometimes there are a couple of breakers right on the air handler or furnace. The ones that will be for your heat strip are 220v and will be twice as wide as your normal 110v breakers . Please don't trust a visual inspection as they can look like they are in the "on" position but are indeed tripped. Turn them all they way off and then back on. If the beakers check out you may have an open cicuit in the heat strips themselves and you will need to have a qualified HVAC tech look at your furnace to repair it.
If your furnace is a "duel fuel" and uses natural or LP gas for back up heat then your ten year old rheem probably needs a good maintenance by a qualified service tech. There is a flame sensor to clean, ignitor to check (replaces the old school pilots), burners to clean flue connections to check and much more. ALL manufacturers of any heating apliance recommend yearly maintenance. Most companies offer something for around 100 bucks. I hope this helps.