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Hello there: If there is no heat or heat sometimes please try these solutions Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but
doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is
simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with
an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to
replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.Thermal fuseOn many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to
the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about
an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white
plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You
can't re-set it.)WiringA common problem is for the main wiring connection
from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because
the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be
only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to
the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is
Check the drain hose from the drum to the pump assembly. Alternativly look for the large capacitor that should be mounted to the internal framwork of the machine, see if has popped. They can make quite a bang when they go,
try flipping you breaker off and on 2 or 3 times (hard and fast) if this don't work check element, timer , thermostats and safety switch on motor 2 heavy red wires (check wiring diagram for pin numbers of safety switch)....if this switch goes bad the motor will still run but it wont let power go to element
A couple of suggestions. STOP, be sure the gas it turned off before disconnecting the line. Move it to an open area and check all venting. A good cleaning makes a huge difference. I believe your problem to be the heating coil is on it's way out, "works sometime". Write down the Make, Model, Seriel Number & Year of MFG...someone may ask for it..Check Your local appliance store for price & availablity Easy to replace on most model dryers.
When reattaching the gas line, be safe not to overtighten the coupler. A safe test for leaks is NOT a match... a drop or two of dishsoap around the fittings will bubble if it is not sealed. Good Luck
Yes, these cords can easily be switched. When you remove the three prong cord from the terminal block in the rear of the unit, you will wire the four prong in the same way. Black and red go to the outside terminals, white to the middle terminal, and the green wire goes to the cabinet or ground screw on the outside (usually, there is a greenish looking bolt around the terminal block door area for this to go). The only difference in a 3 and 4 prong configuration is the extra ground (green) wire. Good luck and let me know if you need further information.