Connector block disintegrated pretty much. I have a new connection block but need a wiring diagram for this unit. NDF-65N 120v 60hz 1500w. It has a heating element, lights and turning rod to simulate the fire. The heating works but the light will not come on. This is a Colorado Electric Fireplace QCM998-36
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most of those electric fireplaces have a band of paper with holes in it that rotates around a light bulb this gives the illusion that the fire is flickering the motors that rotate that band of paper go out all the time its just a little electric motor you might be able to get one from the manufacture
A number 12 copper supply cable at the voltage is overkill for this load.
Ohm's Law states: Watts = Volts x Amps. To find Amps: Amps = Watts / Volts. This is 1500W / 240V = 6.25 Amps. Since the max continuous load for a 14 copper is 12 Amps, this size wire is the correct size.
Check to make sure the heater is in fact a 240 volt type, as if it is a 120 volt type, you are likely instantly burning out the heating element. If it is indeed a 120 volt heater, you will need to connect to a single pole 15 amp breaker and place the other wire that was on the breaker to neutral to provide the correct voltage. The load will still be 1500W, but at half the voltage, the current will double to 12.5 amps, and may cause the circuit breaker to trip after a while.
If the jumper has been removed, then the control is working in the low voltage circuit. Black should be 120v in, White the 120 going out to the fan, and the red or limit wire is (should be) in the low voltage control circuit. Have you looked at the wiring diagram for the F and L Control? If not I will provide a link for you. https://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-0117.pdf
When you are ready to test run the unit you should take an amperage draw reading on the elements. The formula to see if the elements are drawing the correct amps is: (voltage x amps=watts) example: If a heating element is 1500 watts and your voltage is 120 volts, then your amps will be 12.5 amps. (120v x 12.5A=1500W) The easiest way to check amp draw is with a clamp on amp meter.
you get 120V from any phase (black OR red) to neutral
you get 240V from phase to phase (between black and red) and in this scenario you don't need the white wire.
So for you, connect the black to 1 pole of the breaker and the red to the other pole, connect the green wire to the ground strip and you are done.
A white wire is NEVER connected to a circuit breaker anyway, it is a grounded wire, it would be like connecting a green wire to a black wire, bad idea.
the National electrical code specifies red and black wire color for 240VAC circuits.
As Ask Hank mentionned, nothing wrong with 10/3 wire.
If I understand your post correctly....You state that you are hooking up a 240v heater and towards the end you speak of removing jumpers...W2 terminals..ect. It sounds to me your trying to us a 24v low voltage thermostat instead of a Line voltage thermostat.That's what I'd take a look at.
You need a meter, it will be hard without this! If you have 220v in the wall, then think of it like this; each wire is 120v. Test to each other, you get 220v. The thermostat is a double pole, you said. So think of it like this, its an adjustable temperature controlled switch that lets electricity through at the temp. you set it at. If you have 120v from one wire connected to one end of the element, and the other 120v connected to the other end of the element, then it will work. DO NOT CONNECT THE 120V TOGETHER. IT MUST GO THROUGH THE ELEMENT FIRST. The thermostat should be between the power from the wall and the element, to control the temperature.