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Need a bit more information here. Does it still cook when told to do so? If not, you may have a problem with the door close switch. Perhaps it is as simple as using a screwdriver to finesce the actuator back into position. The inside edge of the door has a metal latch and often times a slightly shorter pin or tab that actuates the door open switch. This not only enables the light in the microwave to turn on when the door is open it also tells the cooking circuits to disable until the door is properly closed. If the switch itself is bad you'll have to take the microwave apart to get it out. RepairClinic.com has a huge assortment of parts that are easy to search and find.
We have similar Jen Air double oven and with the same problem but only on the lower oven. The doors are interchangeable and the top door fits fine but the lower door will not close completely at the top. It does turn out the light but has never cooked properly. I checked with several appliance repair shops and the hinges are not adjustable, but since one door closes and our other doesn't it is not a hinge problem, just a defective design.
We let this go too long and are out of warranty so I doubt Jennair is going to do anything. I hope someone post a solution but it is clearly not problem with the henges but with the receptacle they go into.
If it is a drop down door with hinges on the bootom of the oven door, then it is likely to be weak door hinge springs, the usual solution is to replace both hinges.
If it is a swing open door, then the problem is related to a worn or broken door catch, or worn striker pin.
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!