Question about GE JTP20 Electric Single Oven
I have a kenmore oven serial number 326B1229P003. When I try to shut it off, it shuts down for approx. 30 seconds, and turns itself back on, displays an error code f2 and the audible alarm sounds. I have to unplug the oven to turn it off.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The F2 typically means an overtemperature conditions:
1. over 650 degrees F unlatched or 915 degrees F latched.
2. cooling fan stalled while over above 650 degrees F or an oper thermal switch in the yellow leads.
1.Welded relay contacts
2.Cooling fan stalled or blocked air flow to rear of unit.
3.High resitance in over sensor leads/connectors, especially at sensor in rear.
Posted on Nov 04, 2007
Here is a tip that I wrote that will expalin what has happened there...
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
SOURCE: model # JTP11WP...Oven was on
F2 signals overheating or, generally, a incorrect temperature reading. So either the fan or the temperature sensor have failed and you will have to replace it. The beeping is generated by the controller board to notify you that a critical error occurred and the oven will not work until the failed part is replaced.
This is the sensor http://bit.ly/erc2c3
you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left, held in place with two screws.
Unfortunately the motor for the fan is no longer available, its production has been discontinued. The only source for it are repair shop that have dismembered old appliances.
Posted on Mar 15, 2011
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