Question about Whirlpool LGR5644 Gas Dryer
Whirlpool gas dryer squeeks loudly when it is running.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dryer no heat but runs
WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR DRYER?
For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.
Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
Gas Whirlpool Style Version 2
Gas Maytag Style
Gas GE Style
Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
Electric Maytag Style
Electric GE Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
Gas dryers aren't very complicated. Here are some common symptoms you may experience with your dryer.
There's an error code on the digital display
It doesn't work at all
There's no heat
It won't tumble
Drying is too slow
It seems to run forever
It won't start
The light doesn't work
My clothes smell bad!
My clothes are marked or torn
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Posted on Aug 22, 2008
SOURCE: gas dryer makes loud hum
Sounds like you may have a motor issue, they can get lint trapped inside, and it causes the motor to overheat, and eventually go out. You can remove the top, then the front, and see if thats the problem. Usually, once the motor starts making noise, its time to replace. Right now, the packings in the motor are cold, and once they heat up, they stop making noise, so it could last quite a while.
Posted on Nov 16, 2008
When you moved the sensor wire on the moisture sensor may have fallen off.
Remove the front panel and locate the wire and the connection. It will be on the right side near the lint filter vent. If it is still connected your timer has gone bad.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
SOURCE: dryer squeeking
UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.
If you have a front loading machine,
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If the rollers don't have flat spots on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
I hope this helps
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer runs but won't heat
As the clothes gently toss about inside the drum, a temperature control thermostatic disk regulates the heat. It is set for 160f for cotton and it mounts on the blower housing. As air is drawn into the drum and out the backside of the dryer the heat is regulated by this control. It sends 120 volts to the gas assembly. Right next to it is a fuse. The duct fuse is set to blow at 250f. Should that control fail to open and allow for heat to build to abnormally high temps. Note: the fuse will kill the heat source only on most dryer, the dryer will however continue to run. Lint and vent blockage can restrict the airflow and make the heat inside build to dangerous levels.The control thermostat powers up the heat for a minute then shuts down for a few minutes, then repeats this all throughout the drying process, the gas does not stay on! That would burn the clothes. If both of those items check ok and the dryer vent and lint has been cleaned, I next take a look at the gas assembly. I check the flame sensor first. If the flame sensor is open the ignitor will not glow. If that turns out to be good I next check the ignitor itself for continuity. If it turns out to be good I replace the coils. Those coils cannot be checked because they do not act up until energised. Sometimes the coils will work, get hot and fail, cool down and work again. I have some repair photos: HERE
Posted on Feb 12, 2010
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