I would recommend that you first check the Hall effect sensor which determines the speed. I had this exact problem and I actually went out and bought another Hall sensor for about $13. I replaced the original sensor and made sure that the connection between the sensor and control board was nice and snug. My blender worked as good as new! But I was curious to know if my original sensor was defective so I put it back in mixer and again made sure all of the connections were tight. Guess what? My original sensor also made my mixer work! There was nothing wrong with my original Hall effect sensor except the connection between the control board and sensor was not adequate--unfortunately I didn't check the connections before I decided to buy another one. My guess is that the connection between the control board and the sensor probably loosens or comes undone over time from use and vibrations. 1. Download the mixer parts and diagrams from the Kitchenaid website to see what the Hall effect sensor looks like. BTW the part number is 9703312. 2. You'll need a phillips head screwdriver to open up the mixer. 3. Make sure that the connection between the control board and sensor is absolutely tight and snug. 4. Also, make sure that the orientation of the sensor connection between the control board and sensor is correct. it's hard to know which way the sensor should be connected because the control board has three prongs and the sensor can attach facing up or facing down. If, after you've made the connections, the mixer still doesn't work. Disconnect the sensor and reconnect it with the prongs facing the opposite direction and try it. I actually found the right orientation through trial and error. By going through this trial and error, I also had my Eureka moment when I realized that the original sensor probably would also work it were reconnected with correct orientation. 5. This whole process probably takes less than 10-15 minutes to perform. 6. Make sure you use common sense and unplug the mixer when making connections and such.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The starting position for those top speed control plate screws with the lock nuts it 8 full turns in when you fit the plate. Correct adjustment begins in or out from that point. The bottom screw should have been left where it was to start with as that is for adjusting the start position so that when the lever closes the switch contacts to start the mixer the plate only starts moving when the lever moves to the second click. Try and get the bottom one roughly right and then work on the top ones. Turn it to the first click on the speed lever and then EVENLY adjust the 2 top screws to have the planetary turn 13 to 15 times per 15 seconds. Lock up the lock nuts and then check that the bottom screw is in the correct position with speed increasing a small amount as the lever slips into the second click.
These mixers last for years and years. Aside from the fact that you could have a FIRE from a frayed electrical cord, interruption of power to the motor can cause additional problems. Get the Manual with all of the details on repairing the unit. Replace that power cord NOW! When the Housing is open, take a tooth brush or stiff paint brush and whisk out the debris collected inside over time. Check the contacts on the speed selector and look for any black deposits or surface material that may be there.
My first guess would be the speed control plate. It has three screws in an upside down triangular shape. The two screws on top control and adjust speeds 1 thru 6, and often times just one screw being out a 16th of a turn will shut the mixer off completely. I would venture that when you were removing the two stud bolts you moved the adjustment screws on the speed control plate. Remember that even a slight movement can shut down your mixer, take a phillips screwdriver and turn the top left screw one quarter turn while the machine is on, it can start on you so don't be shocked and jump with a loaded screwdriver in your hand at the back of an electrical device, stay calm, if no start then try the left screw a quarter turn, if it does not start go to a half turn on each screw, if still no start turn thr screws back to the start place and try the bottom screw a quarter turn left and right, if you do not start by now, then something is wrong in another place, go back to the brushes and take them out and check how you put them in, these are the two most common problems with a no start mixer. If this does not fix your problem or get the mixer to start please come back here with more info. If you motor raced in the first place then I would suspect the phase control board, but when it came back to normal speed it leades me away from the phase board. When the phse control board goes out the mixer only works at high speed. So please let us know so that we can help further.
You need a reputable repairman. My gears were stripped after trying to mix a very thick dough. It would only work on high speed. After it was repaired.... I still use it, all the speeds work, and that has been 15 years ago. My mixer was at least 8 years old at the time of the "stripping".
I'm not quite sure about this answer but it occurs to me that it could be the governor. It sits at the back end of the armature and as the speed control is slid to faster speeds the governor moves away from its rest position pressing against the control plate. If the governor's pivots were to be binding, even slightly, it would explain the symptoms you are describing. A service manual can be found at:
It sounds like you may have an issue with either the governor assembly and or the main control. If the speed you are getting is constantly going up an down in RPM then this could indicate that the governor has simply become worn and its resistance is gone. If however you get no speed at all and then all of a sudden you get a high speed then it will most likely be the main control. Part number for the governor assembly is 17830. Part number for the main control is 240904−2. Both are relatively simple and cheap to replace. Hope this helps
The likely problem is the Hall Effect sensor located on top of the motor. This sensor is used to determine the speed of the motor. Since it does not sense a speed, the motor revs to top speed and shuts down. You have to shut the switch to Off/Reset to try again. Replace the sensor which costs under $10 before replacing the speed control which costs $50.