We purchased our WFK2401 in late summer 2000. Within a year, the main motor began acting up intermittently. The service man could not determine the cause, and when the motor finally died just beyond the warranty period, Bosch would not replace it. Obviously we were not too impressed with Bosch as we had a documented service call to prove the part began to fail (with the same symptoms) while it was under warranty. This will certainly influence our appliance brand selection in the future.
Over the past few years (and again beginning under warranty), the failure of the washer to drain, coupled with the flashing Error Code, has plagued us with increased frequency. A few weeks ago, this transitioned from frequent re-starts of the spin cycle to total failures twice during every load (the post-wash spin plus the post-rinse spin). After temporarily moving the washer out onto the back deck for problem debugging, I found that removing the drain cover when the cycle timer reaches about 23, replacing it at about 19, and pulling it again at 13 will allow the entire cycle to complete. Obviously, this solution will not work inside the house due to the large amounts of water that would spill onto the floor.
At this point, I suspect either the water pump or a water level sensor is to blame. Not sure which (or both) to replace, so a knowledgeable tip here would help us greatly. I have no reason to suspect the circuit board electronics (reported by others) to be the root cause.
The resolution for the dreaded "error code 03" with a Bosch WFK 2401 is to replace the drain pump. It's around $50 at repairclinic.com (item #144489 - the only part you should need) and they had it in stock at Tribbles in Upper Marlboro, MD (awesome parts company!).
I'm a home owner who saw similar syptoms as everyone else; the issue was interrmitant, I could observe the impeller spinning when dry draining, but when trying to drain wet, a little might come out if any. I even removed the back panel, disconnected the hoses and cleaned everything out (which I suggest doing when replacing the pump), but the problem persisted.
*disclaimer - I am by no means professional repair man. Proceed at your own risk!*
I finally swapped out the pump and it works fine. Remember to unplug the unit, disconnect all hoses, remove the detergent tray, remove the four screws from the front panel around the drain trap. Gently lay the unit on its front being sure not to put pressure on the dials and to have a towel under it. A little bit of water will come out.
Pinch to disconnect the electrical relay to the pump. Disconnect the hoses at their spring clamps, remove the pump and replace it with the new one (I kept the hose from the discharge port to the drain output connected to make things a little easier. Reconnect the new pump the same way - you really can't get it wrong it you do it this way (thanks go to Bosch for their modular engineering techniques - I can't imagine it would be this simple with any other manufacturer).
Gently stand the unit back up and connect the pump to the front panel again using the four mounting screws. You can position the pump my positiioning your finger inside the pump and up the discharge port.
Be sure everything is tight, reconnect all hoses, plug the unit back in and observe for any water leaks (the back panel should still be off to facilitate this; be sure to keep clear of the belts back there.
When finished, replace the back panel and viola - I was done in an hour.
Note: when inspecting the old pump, I can see exposed O-ring near the discharge port - where the was a lot of wear. I think when water got in there and perhaps leaked into the motor area, the unit shut down the pump to prevent electric shock - thus it worked when dry but not when wet.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: Error Code 03 Revisited
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean (ref manual, it may not be there, they want to send over a tech at their convenience to make more $$).Locate your filter, it is below the main tub, you need clip grip pliers. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it (4 to 6 inches maximum) Of course some direct the hose into sink, fine. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too. If this does not solve your prob you have to check your pump for anything clogging the impeller. It comes after the filter.
Sites for spares: RepairClinic.com (which is good) espares.co.uk AppliancePartsPros.com
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
error indicate a Motor Speed error code. It is likely attributed to either a
broken or slipped drive belt, defective Drive Motor, defective Motor
Control Unit (MCU), or the interconnecting wiring between the two.
Could be a loose connection in the harnesses, dad Motor, bad motor control board, bad main control board. It's most likely a bad motor control board.
The F06 code will indicate a drive motor tachometer error.This means the control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If the failure occurs during high-speed spin, the door will unlock after 3 minutes. The error code F06 is likely a loose connection in the harness between the motor and the (MCU) or between the (MCU) and the (CCU). It could also be the tachometer circuit in the motor or an intermittent internal component connection within the (MCU). Since the (CCU) has already been replaced, the failure is likely a loose harness connection or the (MCU). I recommend calling a service technician to check the connection.
A Sublime Master at the Samurai School of Appliantology recently did battle with one of these newfangled Oasis washing machines. The F1 error code was intermittent, which made it impossible to troubleshoot. Turns out there’s a service bulletin out on this problem. Come, feast your bewildered eyeballs on the wisdom of the Masters.
03 is drain error, as you know. The machine is sensing that the water isnt draining enough in 5 minutes...Unless there is an electronic problem the main reasons for the error code is because the drain hose is blocked, or the pump has something preventing it from turning, like a coin jammed in the impeller, or the pump motor itself needs to be replaced....These pump motors tend to get detritis in behind the impeller shaft seal and this often causes the pump to fail.....Good luck....Nomess
Open the panel at the bottom using a 2p coin by turning clockwise Pull the rubber hose out of the holder and drain water into a container until stops turn large plastic screw to the left for access to the pump Clear away and debris bits of metal, plastic, etc that has stopped the pump. Opposite of above to reassemble Switch on and test... good luck!
Hello Marje Weldele,
The Code "LE' is identified in the LG service manual as follows:
Locked Motor Error with the following cuses listed: The 3 pin connector ( white male connector 3 pin) isn not connected to the corresponding connector of the Stator Assembly ( meaning it may have gotten disconnected during a violent wash cycle...
The electric contact between connectors in the main harness to the Main PWB Assembly is bad or unstable ( meaning the connector going from the harnes to the main control circuit board may be making marginal or no contact, The motor harness between the Stator and the Main Control Board may have been cut or disconnected ad lastly the Hall Sensor is out of order or defective. Those are the prime components that may be causing your problem. In all cases, it warrants a service call but ..
It should be noted that LG has the following warranty on that product:
LABOR: One Year from the Date of Purchase Parts (except as listed below): One Year from the Date of Purchase Electronic Control Board: 2 Years from the Date of Purchase Drum Motor: 7 Years from the Date of Purchase Stainless Steel Drum; Lifetime Replacement Units and repair parts may be new or factory remanufactured. Replacement Units and repair Parts are warranted for the remaining portion of the original unit’s warranty period In-Home Service: Please retain Dealers dated bill of sale or delivery ticket as evidence of the Date of Purchase for proof of warranty, and submit a copy of the bill of sale to the service person at the time warranty service is provided. Please call 1-800-243-0000 and choose the Appropriate option to locate your nearest LG Authorized Service Center Or visit our website athttp://www.lgservice.com
Your washer apparently did not complete diagnostics. The display indicates that it stopped at the segment of the test where it was attempting to fill by using the hot water solenoid. The diagnostic test segments check the following:
C:00 - Door Lock
C:01 - Flow Meter, Cold Water Solenoid
C:02 - Dispenser Motor, Dispenser Contacts
C:03 - Hot Water Inlet Valve
C:04 - Motor rotates CW at wash speed
C:05 - Heater & NTC (Heater Sensor)
C:06 - Drain Pump
C:07 - Motor rotates CCW at 35 to 90 rpm within 15 seconds
C:08 - Motor rotates CCW at max. speed.
If there is an error associated with any portion of the diagnostics, the washer will shut down, an audible alarm will be heard, and an error (F) code will be displayed. Sometimes the washer will experience momentray glitches during testing, however. I would recommend unplugging the washer for at least 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). The is the main "brain" of the washer. Upon reset, attempt diagnostics again and let me know the results. I hope this helps you.
I too had the Lr problem on my Maytag MAH5500B. We had it fixed once when it was still under warranty but when it appeared again this summer, I was told that it would cost at least $500 to repair -- in other words, get a new one.
With nothing to lose, I simply unplugged the unit, opened the front and reset (as in pull out and re-insert) the jumpers to the control unit on the bottom right. It's been working fine since and I run it at least twice a week. I noticed that the Lr error would appear when I interrupt the wash cycle once it begins. When the error message appears, I simply unplug it, wait a few minutes and start it up again.
It is after all, a computer...and all computer could use a reset once in a while.
This was always caused by a blockage of the pump. The water isn't able to be pumped out so the sequence stops rather than continuing with the wrong water still in the machine.
Our solution was to manually drain, then open the pump area and remove the coins that always were the cause of the blockage. Wish we could get our (grown) kids to stop putting pants with full pockets in the machine!
Of course, I am looking at this site today because the machine no longer turns the drum. A repairman visit resulted in the diagnosis that the power control module AND primary motor are burned out and need replacing, at an estimated $800.