I have and older model it uses r12 and it only cools to between 50 and 60 degrees . not sure if its a thermostat problem or low freon charge.I can recharge the unit but dont know ho much it takes since the tag with that information is unreadable
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Depending on refrigerator age it could possibly be 2 things if you have no ice buildup on evaporator coils in freezer. 1st-- the discharge tube on the compressor is the smaller of the tubes. It actually should be hot when working right. The other bigger tube is the suction line which is the return line from the freezer coils and should be slightly cool not cold enough to sweat. when working right. You may be low on freon which should never happen unless your tubing developed a small leak somewhere. Refrigerators don't need recharged like car units because everything is soldered shut not bolted together like cars. If he freon leaked out the leak would need to be found--repaired---and then recharged with the proper amount of freon. The other possibility with older refrigerators say 15 years or older is what is called a low capacity compressor. It runs, but the inside gets worn out and it doesn't pump the freon like it should. The end result is exactly what you describe but low freon does the same thing.
It is very possible that the A/C is not engaging part of the time. It can be overcharged. You have 2 safety switches on the A/C system. A high pressure and a Low pressure.
Pressure inside the system is dependent on the background temperature where the car sits. This means the A/C does not have to be turned on for the switches to activate. Their job is to cut off power to the compressor, so when you start your car, the power to the compressor may already be switched off.
There are charts for filling the Freon system. For sake of conversation, lets' say the low pressure cuts off at 20psi and the high at 300psi. Those are the ratings for the respective switches. You have a low charge, say 25psi at 80 degrees outside temp. Overnight or a Cold front comes in and the outside temp is 70 degrees. The system drops to 19psi as the car sits. The compressor clutch will not get power. Also for the high switch, the car sits as outside temp goes to 100 degrees. The A/C pressure climbs to 325psi as the Freon expands, the compressor clutch will not get power.
This is why many instructions tell you to bypass the pressure switches to charge the system. Your switches are constantly working to keep the pressure between 30psi and 300psi. MODERATION is key here. The longer the compressor clutch stays engaged, the more cooling you will have.
So the car makers recommend a fixed amount of Freon for each Model of car. Volume capacity is different for the length of the hoses, the size of the condenser, the chamber inside the compressor. It all is calculated so they know how many LBs of Freon will fit in the space to produce a given pressure.
Most of the pressure switches can be changed without significant loss of Freon, just a puff when the switch is removed and replaced. I have replaced more low pressure switches than the highpressure. It is probably because the springs are much weaker on the low side.
Some major autoparts stores have tool loaner programs. Manifold gauges are used to read both pressure ranges. If you did not purge the system with an electric or air powered Vacuum pump, you may have water condensation forming ice in the lines.
To convert from r12 to r134a freon, you first need to have the r12 discharged into a recovery system by a licensed professional. It is a violation of federal law in addition to environmentally irresponsible to vent this gas to the atmosphere. Next, remove the drier from the a/c system and use a spray can of a/c system flushing solvent to flush the oil r12 refrigerant and lubricating oil from the system by spraying into one of the liberated hose ends and placing a catch bucket under the other hose end.
You will need to purchase and install a set of adapters for the high and low side access valves by simply screwing them tightly and securely on top of your old r12 valves which are already in place.
After cleaning the system, replace the drier with a new one and reassemble the system. Evacuate the system to a sufficiently low pressure using an HVAC vacuum pump and then add the recommended amount of r134a freon and lubricating oil to the system through the charging hose on your combination manifold gauge set. Assuming of course that you didn't have leaks in the system before you began the conversion, you should now be good to go!
Good luck, and Stay Cool!
icing coil could be improper freon level, poor air flow. If it was changed to hot shot due to a low freon level, was the leak in the system located and repair? If so, then check out the above mentioned items. If not, freon level is low due to an unresolved leak.
Good day, That's too long a period, for a normal. defrost system failure. You'll have to wait until it quits, then remove the rear panel and look for ice (not frost) building up somewhere in the freezer compartment. I have solved similar problems on this model, by replacing the defrost thermostat with a GE 60 degree thermostat, and a WR9X330 GE 6 hour defrost timer to get this model to defrost completely.
It's also possible that the refrigerant charge is slightly low, causing the defrost thermostat not to reach a cold enough temperature to perform a good defrost cycle. (building ice over a long period of time).
Make sure Freon 12 was used when replacing the compressor. Some substitutes caused the evaporator coil to act as if it was slightly low on charge.
this unit does not take r22. dont put r22 in it , thats for house acs.this unit should take r12 older freon . but id first check the condenser coils, if this unit has any, some models are internal. usually underneath unit or against back wall. if dirty coils that will make ref. run longer. if coils are clean and cooling or frzing in both sides then maybe your thermostat is not sensing the tempreture properly, maybe hard to get part becuz of age. if unit is frzing and cooling good just running too long, i dont think its low on freon,if its low on freon it wouldnt be working at all . hope this helps
Hi, could be lack of freon, or motor for refrigeration on roof is short cycling(switching of before cooling, but first check freon(gas) in a/c, could also be faulty thermostat, you can bridge thermostat, open thermostat and if there are two wires connect then and see if cooling get colder, if thermostat are heating & cooling, don't bridge wire, you will let me know brand & model number, of thermostat so i can tell you which two wires to connect. but first check freon(gas) in condenser on roof. good look.