Question about Mitsubishi WD-62725 62" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television
I HAVE A MITSUBISHI WD-62725 PROJECTION TV AND IT WONT POWER ON. THERE IS A GREEN LIGHT ON THE FRONT OF THE TV WHICH FLASHES CONSTANTLY. I TRIED THE SYSTEM RESET BUT THE GREEN LIGHT STILL FLASHES AND THE TV WONT POE[WER ON. I HAVE NOT CHANGED THE LAMP NOR HAD ANY SERVICE PERFORMED. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON GETTING IT TO TURN ON?
This message board and *************** just saved me either $1000.00 or
$4500.00. To all the contributors who posted photos and instructions on
the dreaded "flashing green light" T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U !
As of Firday night. I had the TV re-assembled (with new capacitors installed)
and I had almost conceded and given up. When I plugged the TV back in I had no power and no flashing green light. NOTHING.
I've spent the rest of weekend using CNET.com to read reviews on the editor's choice awards for plasma sets and wondering how I'd pay for a 52" - 1080p Plasma.
Sunday I took the TV apart (not wanting to give up) all the way down to removing the brand new capacitors. Desoldered them, took them out and started all over again. This time when I plugged the power cord in I instantly heard juice go through the set. Walked around to the front and......OMG I had a flashing green light.
In about 30 seonds the green light went out. THE MOMENT OF TRUTH !
I pushed the power knob on the front of the set AND......
BAM -I got a picture.
The WS-55859 has 7 capacitors instead of the "four" that have been mentioned here, on other Mitsubishi sets. They are mounted on a 4" square daughter board inside the DM Module shielded case.
Total cost of the repairs were around $105.00. Seventy five dollars of that came from a universal arm style light that has a big round magnifying glass.
8 - 1000uf 16v 105C Capacitors
1 - Magnifying Lamp
1 - Weller Soldering Iron
1 - .075" Width (Pro Wick Desoldering Braid) Size #3
1 - ROSIN CORE SOLDER
INSTRUCTIONS: (EXPLAINED LIKE YOU HAVE NO SOLDERING EXPERIENCE)
I had never desoldered a circuit board in my life. On my own I finally figured out if you place the desolder braid flat on the board next to the pin (you want to desolder) place the tip of your iron directly on the desolder braid and not directly on the solder. You can briefly touch the solder just to get the wick action started.
Have the desolder braid touching the base of the ***** of solder your wanting to remove. Press your iron directly onto the braid with the braid barely touching the ***** of solder. When iron is hot enough you will see the braid begin to **** the melting solder like a wick.
When placing the solder on the new pins you need a third hand to hold the capacitors snuggly against the circuit board. To do this, I placed the capacitor in place with the two pins sticking through the board. I grabbed one pin with a set of surgical hemistats. Because hemistats are slightly arched, it allows the hemistats to grab one pin and the other clearly visible to solder while the hemistats hold the capacitor in place. Allow it to cool, remove the hemistats and repeat the process till all capacitors are in place.
A TIP ON SOLDERING:
On your first drip of solder onto each pin, make sure it's as tiny as possible.
VERY TINY ! Get it on the pin and set the solder supply to the side. Work that tiny drip with the tip of your iron. You want to work that first drip and get it to **** into the hole of the circuit board around the capacitor's pin. I didn't pay special attention to this on my first pass and my drips were to large. This can lead to loose pins and loose capacitors. The only way to get solder deep into the hole the pins are sticking through is use a very tiny amount of solder.
While your DM Module is completely out and laying on a slightly elevated surface. (I used a plano fishing tackle box) Observe the bottom plastic guide that the DM Module rest in. Toward the outer edge of the TV's back,
you will see a narrow slot in the plastic guide. In my photos I refer to it as a plastic receptacle.
Now pick up the faceplate you have removed from the DM Module. At the bottom of the faceplate is a shark fin shaped piece of the faceplate. Make
sure that lines up and slides back into the the plastic guide properly.
If you don't......your DM Module will seem to not want to slide back in properly. It also acts as a guide to make a copper contact strip to engage properly with proper surface contact.
Removing the DM Module is only slightly tricky. Because your not going to disconnect any wire connectors from any of the circuit boards. The wire bundles leaving the DM Module have just so much length and will not allow you to slide the DM Module out.
So there is a work around to get the DM Module out.
IN my photos, I show you how to rotate the DM Module "in place" and rotating it out of it's resting place.
Above the DM Module is the upper plastic guide that prevents you from doing this rotate "in place" maneuver. The upper plastic guide must be removed by removing two screws.
To get to these screws, just above the plastic guide is a inner wooden shelf that is laying in the TV horizontally. I removed four screws holding it inside the TV's case, and then removed the wooden shelf. (see photos).
Now you can easily remove the upper plastic guide.
STEP BY STEP GUIDE WITH PHOTOS:
STEP 1) The DM Module loose. But it can't be rotate out because of the upper plastic guide.
STEP 2) How the DM Module is rotated out of the TV case. Allow the wires
entering the DM Module to be an axis point of the rotation. That way they barely move and don't get snagged or stretched.
STEP 3) The DM Module out and the side cover of the metal housing removed.
STEP 4) My setup to do the soldering work.
STEP 5) Up Close of the daughter board and the seven capacitors on
STEP 6) The daughter board unscrewed and flipped over where you will be soldering.
STEP 7) The Upper Plastic Guide that must be removed to rotate the DM Module out of the TV set.
STEP 8) Get this wooden horizontal shelf out (4 screws) and getting the upper plastic guide out becomes easy.
STEP 9) Helpful Hint about the wooden shelf and the platic guide that both need to be removed.
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
You should find more info from this website. It might be a good idea to test the lamp with a DVM before getting into the capacitors issue.
This type of repair is not a DIY if you are not familiar or have basic electronics knowledge.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Real common problem, failure of the power supply or the DM (microprocessor) canot reset - can be repaired by a good servicer but not a self-repair issue..else I recommend unplugging it and then holding the power button for at least 3 seconds to discharge the capacitors. I don't know if it works for TVs, but it does work for my computer. Leave it unplugged for at least a half an hour and then plug it back in and try again.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, pls determine the number/sequence of the green blinks. It represent an error code that will point to the general area of probable fault. Thereafter diagnosis and eventual repairs could be done.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
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