Question about Kenwood KAC-9152D Car Audio Amplifier

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Amp Problems My Kenwood amp (kac7202) is hooked up to a 1800 watt (power acustic) sub. It will work just fine when it is not bridged. As soon as I bridge it though it turns off and blows the fuse from the batt. to the amp. I went to bigger gauge wire from my batt. to my amp. And now when I try to bridge it it blows the fuse in the amp. It works when the radio is not loud but as soon as I turn it up it blows the fuse. Wondering if you had any ideas on how to fix it? Thanks for your time.

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You are probably presenting too low an impedance load to the amplifier. In bridged mode the amp must be connected to a minimum 4-ohm load. If your subwoofer is a dual voice coil type with 4-ohm voice coils, you cannot wire the voice coils in parallel and connect it to the bridged amplifier. If you have a sub with dual 2-ohm voice coils, you can wire the voice coils in series and connect it to the amplifier in bridged mode. To connect voice coils in series: Connect a wire from the negative terminal of one coil to the positive terminal on the other coil. Connect the unused positive and negative terminals to the amplifier's output.

Posted on Mar 15, 2007

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How do i get full power out of my kenwood kac-1520s amplifier hooked up to two 12" audiobahn 400 watt subwoofers


Your amp is under powered for those speakers (350 max. watt). Even if your subs were 2 ohm your amp will only put out 75 watts X 2 at 2 ohms, if you bridge that amp you might be asking for trouble . I'm guessing there both 4 ohm. Look around for a 2 ohm stable mono amp with more power and you won't be sorry. Ray

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My kenwood KAC-7204--- the wiring is hooked up right, I just got a 2000 watt max sub 1000 watt rms, i was running the amp in bridge mode and it ran for 1 day than it turned off. I checked it and the fuse...


when i was running my sub off bridge mode this kept happening to me. I ended up just running two subs and for some reason the fuse stopped blowing. i think there is something wrong with these amps.

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the problem sounds like your new sub is drawing to much power and your amp can not handle it. bridging the amp is a good way to get the full power out of your amp. But it isnt always suggested, my solution is to get a bigger amp. I install stereo systems for a living, and i tell my customers that it is smart to get an amp about 100 more watts then the rms rating of your subwoofer.

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1 Answer

The subs aren't pushing out bass.


Hello crobins2,

The Kenwood KAC-6202 2-channel is only rated for 60 watts RMS per channel into a 4 ohm load. That just isn't much power for a pair of 12" subs. Even the bridged output is only 200 watts into 4 ohms, still at the low end for a sub, much less to share between a pair of subs.

Assuming that your subs are 4 ohm, you could probably get more sound by driving just one of them on the bridged terminals. But to get the best power with what you have, connect one sub to each channel, set the filter switch to the far right (LPF), set the operation switch to stereo (both channels driven), set the filter frequency (Hz) to 100 or lower, and adjust the input sensitivity as far clockwise as possible without causing distortion.

But, to do the subs justice, you really need at least 300-400 watts to share between them.

Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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find the rms rating of the sub and compare it to the amp.if the rms of the amp is higher than the sub you have enough power to push the sub.if its lower look at the rms of the amp if it can be bridged.you would like to see the rms matched to the sub or subs if you have enough power.

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A 1000 WATT AMP HAS PROBABLY GONE INTO PROTECTION MODE BECAUSE YOU ARE TRYING TO RUN 1600 WATT SUBS COMBINED

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1 Answer

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first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ

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1) Make sure the amp is properly connected to +12V power source. 2) Make sure the amp is grounded well, directly to metal - if you have a voltmeter, an easy way to check the first two is to see if there are 12 volts across the power and ground wires. 3) Make sure the speaker output wires aren't touching each other. If none of these are the case, there is an internal problem with the amp and it should be serviced or replaced.

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Sounds like you got the wrong speaker load by either parralleling some speakers or else you bridged the outputs in such a way to create the wrong speaker load or maybe all of the above. In short, it sounds like you have blown at least one of your output channels and its time for a trip to the repair shop. I suggest you disable your amp at once so that it doesn't do any more damage to itself.

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