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It's real easy. Just turn it in for repair, and watch tv someplace else. Save up money, by the time you have it the tv might be fixed. If not, the repair shop will hold your tv and your money. You can make payments and stuff.
If model number is 43fdx01b it uses two convergence chips--you are going to need to get your hands on a Hitachi remote if you do this repair.
If picture looks 3D, double image one or both of the two chips it uses for convergence is bad.
With the set unplugged and the back removed look on the far right side of the set---two versions of this set---one has a circuit board on the far right side about 5 inches wide and 12 inches deep--the chips will be on the large metal heat sink with fins on the far right side----look at the chips.
They are black in color and 2 1/2 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches tall with 18 pins each---They will most likely have the STK-392-120 NUMBER printed on each in white.
If you have this version the board is held in by 3 screws---you snap up a row of black plugs on the left side and several other plugs on that board have to be removed--if you do it---mark all the plugs so you get them back exactly where they came from.
Good news: total parts cost aside from a remote should be under 20 dollars---verify the number on the chips and I can tell you the best place to buy them.
There are about 12 resistors to the left of the heat sink that need to be looked at and tested--like checking a fuse.
Any resistor that is discolored in the middle or reads open needs to be replaced at the same time.
You might want to go to the house where you found the set and ask them for the remote--nothing to lose.
If you think you can solder etc and do this repair I will give you further specific instructions---this set is very easy to fix for this CONVERGENCE problem---
If you have more time than money--this is a very good TV--and this is about the only problem it ever has.
I am here to help---rate this solution if it helped you- I do this here for free.
I will follow thru with any help or questions you have even after you rate the solution.
Sounds like you may have a bad power supply board. You can find a service manual at http://www.techlore.com/. Go about half way down the page and to the right and I think it says get manuals. Click on that and I think they have a free one. You may have to join the site to get it be its free to join. Hope this is helpful.
Your symptoms sounds like at least one damaged convergence IC.
You are correct you can sometimes rework the solder connections on each of these IC’s, although, if the convergence does not fix itself from time to time, you most likely do not have a bad solder connection. You will have a faulty IC. I recommend to replace them both at the same time because the chips legs can fall off due to the heat of the IC. Please be sure to remove all of the white heat sink compound on the heat sink and apply a even coating over the back of the new IC’s. You should also bolt them down before you solder them in so that you have them at the correct height. There are two and sometimes three very large IC’s that control the convergence in a big screen set. I believe that your set has two. They are secured to a very large aluminum heat sink. I think that the IC numbers will be IC8001, 80002.
The IC’s are large and black, you cannot miss them. They will usually have an STK-XXX number on them.
There are several schools of thought on the replacement of parts and I firmly believe that you get what you pay for, so don’t buy the cheapest IC’s that you can find. One company I worked for tried this and it only caused more work for the technicians, as we had to replace them with the more expensive ones in the end. I would think that you should be able to find these for around $60.00 each. If you can find the exact Mitsubishi part, even though the numbers on the front are the same, and they look exactly like the $10,00 ones, they are better and more reliable. I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If I have helped you, please help me, and rate this suggestion the highest FixYa rating. (Two Thumbs Up) Please Note: If you can not rate this post with the highest rating, then please do not leave any rating. I am doing this for free and I do not think that any rating other that the best is needed. If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.
I just posted the following to someone else, since I think these problems are related.
I had a similar problem.
My TV started to flicker and I put a new bulb in. The new bulb did not help, even if it is good to replace after a couple thousand hours.
I found out that my heat sink, which is sitting on the CPU with the mirrors came loose and the unit overheated and shut off after flickering a while.
Try to take the lower back panel off and you see a heat sink which is sitting in the center of a aluminum sheet metal piece. Disconnect the wires which are attached to the circuit board behind the sheet metal. Then take off the screws holding the sheet metal and pull it gently off. It will take a little force, but it does not damage anything. Now you see the heat sink on the circuit board held by a latch going across the heat sink.
On the upper right corner you will find the handle to open the latch. Once you did it , you can take the heat sink off and see the main CPU (as I took the latch off, my heat sink fell off).
On my heat sink the Heat Sink Compound Paste creating the connection between the CPU and the heat sink dried out and became brittle, son there was no connection anymore and the heat couldn’t be transported out through the heat sink, which is cooled by a fan on the left.
I took the brittle Heat Sink Compound Paste off and applied a generous portion of the one that I bought at Radio Shack. I used a Silicone-Base Heat Sink Compound which ran $4.99 excl. tax.
After applying the paste put the heat sink gently in and when you do, you will feel like a suction indicating that you have a connection between the CPU and the heat sink.
Now you need to put all parts back together.
If you are not familiar with electronics and those wires or wouldn’t hurt or would be wise to mark the connectors and to make pictures before removing them. This will save you a lot of frustration.
I hope this helps you and brings your TV back to life. My TV was cutting out after 25 minutes and runs now like a charm.
PS: If you experience a black screen with vertical stripes (mine were white and green) then most likely the light engine needs to be replaced, I had this after 9 months and got it fixed under warranty
On the main board to the left ( i believe ) about mid way towards the front you will see a heat sink, in the the shape of a U, behind the heat sink is a capacitor, I believe it's a 2200mfd, see if it is bulged at the top,( it should be flat ) if it is, replace it, also on the hv power supply there have been numerous cold solder joints, look it over carefully and I think you'll find your problem. Let me know !
Yes!! The crackling noise you hear is small pieces of food stuck spinning around the moter drain....All you have to do is find the drain hose (some are located under the sink of the kitchen) disconnect it from the draining source (not the back of the dishwasher) now run a long thin wire through the drain hose line poke around and pull in and out!! it may take a few tries but its better then a large Bill!! replace hose and hit drain button!!
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Where did you purchase the convergence amps previously? Your set takes two STK392-040 Sanyo amps and there is a high probability that that is the problem here again. The convergence amps for these units are really critical and chinese knock-offs are abundant. Is it possible that you didn't get Sanyo originals?
Another thought is what about the heat sink used when they were installed? Did you do the installation or have it done professionally?
I doubt seriously that unplugging the unit will have any affect.
Fisrt off think of the age of the set. and then ask yourself do you really want to start sinking money into such an old unit? My advice, free as it may be, save your money for a new set. These older sets can be regretably costly to repair. Be warned.
Camaroguy: This exact problem happened to us about 8 months ago. A board had to be replaced at a cost of $500. Yesterday, the convergence has gone on the set. You get a blue and yellow shadow on the picture. From what I have been reading, this has happened on a few TVs and it will cost another $500 or so. We refuse to pour more money down the drain so we just went out and bought a new plasma (RCA) for half what it cost us for the Panasonic 4 years ago. We have never had a problem with RCA in the past (two tvs for 20 years a piece).