Question about Dryers
I set the timer to Timed Dry and anywhere in the minutes range and I can hear the timer ticking. I then push the Start button and it does nothing. I open the door and the light goes on and I push the door switch with my finger and the light goes off. I then hold the door switch in and press the Start button again. I hear and feel the click of the Start switch, but the barrel still does not start spinning. The belt is fine and I can turn the barrel manually and when I do the blower fan spins but the motor isn't running. This started up a few days ago. Today I changed out the roller drum supports and the belt, because a couple of weeks ago one of the rollers was squealing pretty loud. I'm ok with the mechanical, but the electrical has me baffled.
SOURCE: My non-starting dryer
Make sure you perform all checks with the dryer UNPLUGGED.
Double check the thermal fuse just to be sure. It will be located on the air blower housing and should be a white plastic component with two wires connected to it. It should read a short if good. I could be mistaken, but I believe the drum light will still come on with the thermal fuse blown. If I led you astray in my write up, I do apologize. All dryers are not configured the same.
If the thermal fuse is good, pull the connector from the drive motor and inspect it. I have found where these connectors look like they are tight, but actually aren't, causing the connector and wires to burn. If the connector checks good, you have a couple of options. You could have a defective motor. Take a resistance check across the blue wire and violet wire on the motor. This should be your start winding. Resistance should be between 2.4 to 3.8 ohms. If it reads anything higher than 4 ohms, it's recommended that you replace it. If the motor is okay you may have a defective belt switch and/or centrifugal switch. I'm not sure how your dryer is configured. I will need the COMPLETE model number (located around the door opening) to be sure.
Before I can give you further advice about troubleshooting or replacing parts, I need to be sure of what you find. Please post back and let me know.
Posted on May 29, 2008
Yank the filter out the top. Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing. Use a putty knife to pop the top and then remove the screws holding the front on. NOTE: raise up on the front panel slightly so you won't damage the bottom clips. Get the front out yer way and remove the drum. Clean out the dryer and oil the rollers and idler. Use this handy ROUTING GUIDE to see how to put the belt back.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
My dryer of the same model number had the same issue. The teflon/plastic wear points are worn out or have fallen off. They are about $22.00 plus shipping at the site below. Disconnect the power, lift (with force) the top off at the front of the dryer and you will have access to remove and replace.
Felt glide assembly - Upper felt seal with three glides attached. Comes with adhesive.
Part Number: AP2150497 made by FRIGIDAIRE
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
Good day. Ugly problem.
My first choice would have been the motor, but.......
Here is the process, it might help you.
The power to the motor goes first to and thru the door switch. It then returns to the timer.
When the timer is turned to any running position, power leaves the timer where it is split into 2 leads.
One of the power leads goes directly to the centrifugal switch Which is the switch on the motor with all the wires. If you spin the drum, you also spin the motor, and if spun fast enough will close the contacts on the cetrifugal switch, thus sending power to the motor, allowing it to run. I guess you have done that.
The second lead out of the timer goes to the push to start switch, it then leaves and goes to the centrifugal switch but on the power side, so it is directly connected to the main winding in the motor.
That is why when you press the press to start switch, the motor runs, and if held in it will continue to run.
In fact, at this point, the motor had 2 sources of power, either of which can run the motor.
Thus releasing the push to start switch doesn't matter, since it runs off the other source.
The centrifugal switch is not wired right. Please recheck. (or the motor was bad out of the box. Happens).
The push to start switch is bad, and needs replaced.
Or, the wiring going to or leaving the push to start switch has broken or making a bad connection.
Lastley, I said the power comes out of the timer and splits into 2 circuits. Not always true, in some models the timer sends 2 seperate wires out carrying the power, with the possibility the timer could be bad.
Hope this helps.
and thank for using FixYa
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
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