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Re: kenmore dryer model 417.84252500 runs but does not...
Disconnect the plug. Disconnect the wires to the heater element. Using an ohm meter or test light,test the heater element to see if it is open. If it is open the meter needle will not move If a test light , it will not light. If true then replace element.
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It depends on if the unit is electric or gas. Both will have a thermal fuse if the venting is restricted the fuse will blow if its a whirlpool or kenmore brand. The thermal fuse is white and will be either located on the back or in the front by the blower housing. If the lint screen is located in the top the fuse will be in the back. Have your husband take a look at the schematic he should be able to find the fuse. Also i know he probalby checked this but the unit needs 240v for the unit to heat if its electric but the motor will still run with 120v. Make and model would allow me to help much more.
Had similiar problem once and it turned out to be one leg of the 240 volt
supply was dead. The drum motor only needs one leg (120V) to run, but the Heating elements require both legs (240v). Make sure you have 240V at the recep.
check the thermal fuse on the top of blower wheel housing,also while your there take off the cover of the housing and clean all the lint out,if your fuse was popped the lint buildup did it,check outside and make sure the air from dryer is blowing out and is not blocked,if it is blow out vent line if it's a long run with a leaf blower,if the thermal fuse is good read out the heater with a meter and if that's good read out the t-stats
when you try to start it again do you hear a humming comeing from the motor? can you jump start it by turning the drum while holding the start button? If you say yes to these questions you have a bad motor.
check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.
If exhaust is blocked or restricted from back of dryer to outside of home it will cause the dryer to over heat the high limit switch. Repeated overheating will weaken the over load switch and it will need to be replaced if normal operation can not resume without restriction. Sea Breeze
If there's heat inside the drum the heater coils should be ok, however your model has 2. With the door open and the machine running, look inside at the back of the drum and look for 2 glowing element coils. If one is not working you will not have enough heat. Check the
exhaust vent, make sure it's not kinked or squished behind the
machine and that the outside vent is not clogged with lint. You should
feel air blowing freely to the outside. If there is no heat, first
check for 240V at the outlet. If you have 240V, it could be the
element, the hi-limit thermostat, the thermal cut-off, the timer, the
motor or a wiring issue (loose or shorted). Good luck!.
the motor overload can caouse that problem in that case new motor is needed if the dryer turn right back on after it turns off the even heat control board in panel bad if it humms are no noise after turn off and you have to let cool down the motor is the problem