Question about Kohler Model 7202: Drain For Purist® Baths - Polished Chrome

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Urinal won't flush

The model is sloan SLG 281861 royal optima G2 plus battery powered 1.0 GPF/ 3.8 LPF
SKU# SLN1086
i have already changed the batteries, and checked the water. when i press the button it makes the click noise and the sensor also makes the ckick noise when i move out of range??

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Hi not being american it sounds as though its a solenoid problem, although the water supply is ok & the batteries are fine, if the solenoid is at fault then no water willpass, or possibly if there is a strainer in the water supply it may be blocked & needs cleaning out?

Hope this helps

Richie from the UK

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Plumbing Repair// a water pipe with water in pipe


Broken,split,frozen pipes that need solidering and you can't do it becasuse of water leaking into repair area?
A simple way to keep water out of repair area is to stuff white bread into the pipe that has the water leaking into it. It will absorb the water while you make repair, depending on the flow of the leak ,will determine on how much time you have to complete the repair. This happens quite often when the water valve is not closing all the way.
After the repair simply turn on the water and flush out the bread.
2 inportant steps to remember; 1 remove the crust from the bread, 2 remove areator from facuet before flushing out the bread .

on Jun 04, 2011 | Plumbing

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FIXING A TOILET THAT WILL NOT FLUSH!!! a simple but very effective money saving...


This simple how to, is based upon most lever operated toilets, with the cistern mounted above the toilet bowl. The make and model of toilet used for this feature is of the following:
Toilet and internal syphon
DUDLEY ELITEDudley S7 Cascade syphon
Problem:
My toilet will not flush, but the ball float valve is working and there is water in the cistern; no leaks present and the flushing lever is not broken or disconnected, what do I do?
Answer:
first isolate the water to the toilet or the main water supply to the house. Bail out the water from the cistern using a small jug or cup, (or you can syphon the water manually using a hosepipe or similar pipe, a towel to cover your mouth, and either a bucket or the toilet bowl) and remove water from the bottom of the cistern with a sponge.


Changing the syphon in a toilet that is not close coupled is far easier as you do not need to remove the cistern from the wall!


Undo the lower of the two large nuts beneath the cistern using a large pipe wrench or pair of water pump pliers, now disconnect the flush pipe and push it to one side.
Place a bucket or bowl beneath the cistern and undo the Nut which is immediately below the cistern (syphon replacing nut), some water may be released by the syphon, take note of any washers that are removed as new ones need fitting when replacing the siphon.
Unhook the lift rod from the flushing lever and remove the syphon.


Inside the toilet syphon, there will be a small plastic piece of sheet called a diaphragm; you can fabricate a replacement using the plastic title cover on a DVD case. Cut this to the exact same size and shape as the original part, and fit this to where the original diaphragm was. This is your new replacement.


Refitting is a complete reversal of removal, be sure to fit any washers (preferably new ones) that you have taken out. Ensure everything is tight but do not over tighten before refilling the cistern



on Aug 09, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Power flush toilet does not power flush


Usually when the power flush does not work it is because a leak has developed in the pressurized tank. They are known to develop leaks, usually along the molding lines. I am not sure if the tanks are replaceable. Or, it could be something as simple as the flush leaver not engaging the valve assembly on the tank. Take of the tank lid and try to flush and let me know what you see. Good Luck

May 12, 2012 | American Standard Plumbing

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How to fix a flush valve


  • Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.

  • These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.

  • Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.

  • You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.

  • Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.

  • A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.

  • Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.

  • On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.

  • Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

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How to install a new flush valve


  • Flush valves are held to the tank by one large jam nut on the bottom of the tank. Installing a new flush valve usually requires removing the toilet tank from the bowl, which can be rather complicated. However, wall-mounted tanks may not need to be removed.

  • If the toilet tank must be removed, turn the water off completely, flush the toilet and hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of the tank water. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water. Disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If the flexible riser tube is damaged, replace it.

  • Then, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange, with nuts beneath. Use caution–forcing the bolts may cause you to break the tank, bowl or both. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads. If they still won't budge without force, try wrapping masking tape around a hacksaw blade and sawing with the teeth facing you, so the blade cuts on the "pull" stroke. The layer of masking tape will protect the bowl's glazed surface from saw scratches.

  • The tank should now lift away from the bowl. Lay it upside-down on a throw rug or newspaper padding to protect it, and unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank. Use channel-locking pliers plus penetrating oil and extreme care to avoid breakage. Clamp a well-padded locking plier/wrench around the flush valve to keep it from rotating inside the tank.

  • Install the new flush valve according to the directions. The rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank to prevent leakage. The flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank damage.

  • Use new brass tank hold-down bolts, which will remain workable. Tighten the bolts just enough to compress the tank's soft rubber gasket and keep it from leaking.

  • Install the water supply riser to the tank and turn on the water.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

2 Answers

How to Clear Drainage Pipe?


High pressure water jets are good, but if you do not have the equipment, a large quantity of very hot water will do as well. This will melt the deposits and flush them down the pipe. I flush my home's kitchen and lavatory drains once a year with a large stewpot full of scalding hot water. This must be done with great care by someone strong enough to keep the pot under control. Wear a long sleeves and pants and a raincoat over to protect from splashes, use heavy mits and pour slowly. Take steps to make sure no children or pets can come near. Make sure your path is completely clear. Failure to take great care can result in a very bad burn. Done regularly, this maintenance can greatly reduce, or even eliminate, blocked waste pipes.

Aug 27, 2008 | Danze D495008PBV Polished Brass 1-1 / 2...

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How to adjust a toilet


  • Your toilet tank may simply need a good "tune-up." Here are some adjustments you can make.

  • Refill valve. If your tank has a conventional ballcock refill valve, the water level is adjusted by bending the float arm. The level should be high enough for complete flushes, but the water should not be to the top of the overflow pipe. Your tank should have a colored or molded water level mark. It should never be set so low that the bowl does not refill with trap sealing water. The rule of thumb is to set the water level about 3/4" below the top of the overflow pipe.

  • If the float rubs on other parts, simply adjust the float arm sideways. If the float lacks buoyancy, unscrew then shake it to determine if it is waterlogged. A waterlogged float should be replaced. The float arm can also be replaced, if needed.

  • In tanks using modern plastic refill valves, the tank water level is adjusted in other ways. If your tank uses a hand nut, turn the nut clockwise to raise, or counterclockwise to lower, the water level. Or, your tank may have a sliding pinch clamp on an adjustment rod.

  • Flush valve. Replacements for a flush ball and its actuating mechanism are available, but it may be possible to stop a leak with minor adjustments. Check the following mechanisms before purchasing replacements.

  • See that the guide arm is centered directly over the seat. The guide arm should drop the flush ball directly into its seat. If the flush ball is not seating properly, make the adjustment shown.

  • The guide arm should allow the flush ball to rise enough for a complete flush. If not, raise the arm. Be careful that it isn't too high–then it will prevent the ball from closing completely.

  • Check that the upper lift wire pulls the flush ball high enough. To adjust it, simply bend the wire for a higher or lower lift.

  • The lifting hardware on a flapper-type flush valve should raise the rubber flapper to start a flush, but should not hold the flapper up off its seat. If this is occurring, the hardware is adjusted too short. Some types allow you to slide the flapper itself up or down on the refill tube to ensure that the flapper meets the valve seat squarely. The lifting hardware and flapper height adjustments are the first things to check when flapper problems arise.

  • Refill tube. If the bowl-refill tube is out of place, water is routed directly into the tank, rather than replenishing water in the bowl. When this is the case, you will likely hear splashing sounds during tank refill. The refill tube should aim directly into the overflow pipe but should not reach below water level. If the tube extends too low, it will siphon tank water silently away. Fix it by repositioning as shown.

  • Defective refill tubes on some valves can be replaced with new plastic ones. Simply place one end of the plastic tube over the serrated plastic lug on the body of the valve, and place the plastic holder in the top of the overflow pipe.
  • on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

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