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Tweeter does not work in surround speakers

My left and right surround tweeters does not work but my mids do. i ohmed out the tweeter and im getting 5 ohms. is the speaker blown and if not what is the problem

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If you are trying to find out if tweeters are ok, place them to the mids
and listen. if good, then trouble lies in the individual amplifier inside ur set.

Good Luck

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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1 Answer

Tweeter no sound but speaker no problem


In the most general, basic sense, I would be assuming that this is just one speaker and not 2 with this problem, or 3 or more.
Only way to get the ball rolling is pull the tweeter from the cabinet, checking to make sure all wires are connected at the tweeter and inside the speaker.
If that is the case, then you would need to determine if this is the tweeters fault, or its crossover (thing that divides the sound into whats right for the woofer and what the tweeter wants).
If you have a multi-meter, you would disconnect the wires from the tweeter, set the meter to ohms and touch a probe to each speaker terminal. No action means burned out tweeter, 100% action means burned out tweeter, a reading slightly less than the rating on the back of the tweeter (for instance an 8 ohm tweeter would show anywhere from 6 to 8 ohms on the meter) means tweeter is good.
If you have no meter then take the tweeter from the good speaker and swap in place of the bad one, making sure you respect + and - connections.Its a little risky this way,since if there is something wrong in the speaker it may hurt the good tweeter..(the meter is the safer bet). If it works, then you need a replacement tweeter, if not the problem is either wire connections inside the speaker, or something is wrong with the crossover.

Nov 03, 2014 | Audio Players & Recorders

2 Answers

Hi....I need a wiring diagram for the stock amp in my grand am gt...its a 2003


Monsoon System Pinouts

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pin Wire Color Function
E1 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Output (+)
E2 TAN Left Front Speaker Output (+)
E3 GRY Left Front Speaker Output (-)
E4 LT BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (-)
E5 DK BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (+)
E6 BRN Left Rear Speaker Output (+)
E7 YEL Left Rear Speaker Output (-)
E8 BLK Ground
E9 BLK Ground
E10 DK GRN Antenna Relay Coil Supply Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E13 BLK Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
E14 YEL Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
E15 DK BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
E16 LT BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F1 DK GRN Right Front Speaker Output (-)
F2 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (+)
F3 PPL Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (-)
F4 PPL Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F5 RED Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F6 DK GRN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F7 ORN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
F8 PPL Gain Control Signal
F9 -- Not Used
F10 YEL Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F11 WHT Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F12 -- Not Used
F13 LT BLU/BLK Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (-)
F14 DK GRN Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (+)
F15 DK BLU/WHT Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (+)
F16 LT GRN/BLK Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (-)

or it is here 3rd one down
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=76

May 08, 2011 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

Feb 23, 2011 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

1 Answer

What are the color codes for a factory stereo system in a 2006 Nissan alttima


use at your own risk. I can not confirm these.
+12V DC Battery(Constant) Yellow/green 31 15 Amp Fuse box on left front of engine compartment, near battery. Switched Accessory Purple 6 10 Amp Fuse block behind left side of dash Power Antenna NCA Green for antenna signal Illumination Red/yellow & red/blue Steering Wheel Control Wire Red/white, green, and blue If equipped, as for Mid-Line. Left Front + Blue/white Left Front - Blue/red Right Front + White/black Right Front - Blue/black Left Rear + Green/yellow Left Rear - Black/yellow Right Rear + Blue Right Rear - Red
titleicon.gif AT SPEAKERS
Wire Function Color Note Left Front Tweeter + Blue/white Left Front Tweeter - Blue/red Right Front Tweeter + White/black Right Front Tweeter - Blue/black

Feb 20, 2011 | 2006 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

I need the wiring colour codes for 2002 santa fe car stereo


Hi,



Basically the wiring of the large harness corresponds to the pins like this.

Starting in the upper right hand corner and working down the right side from A12 down to A1.

1=Left rear output-red
2=Left rear output-blue
3=Right rear output-black
4=Right rear output-yellow
5=empty
6=Left front input-black
7=Left front input-yellow
8=Left rear input-orange
9=Left rear input-green
10=Amp 'ON'-blue&orange
11=empty
12=Amp sensor-black&orange

Back up to upper left hand corner on the large plug

13=Right front tweeter output-red
14=Right front tweeter output-blue
15=Left front tweet output-red
16=Left front tweeter output-blue
17=empty
18=Right front input-red
19=Right front input-white
20=Right rear input-blue
21=Right rear input-red
23=Right front sub (+) output-yellow
24=Right front sub (-) output-black

The small harness is the same above with the upper right position being pin 1 going down to pin 4 then back up to the top for pin 5 down to pin 8.

1=Memory Power-Lrg White
2=Amp Ground- Lrg Black
3=Left front sub (+)output-yellow
4=Left front sub (-) output-black
5=Left front mid (+) output-white
6=Left front mid (-) output-brown
7=Right front mid (-)output-brown
8=Right front mid (+) output-white


Hope this will help you.

Thank you

Jan 04, 2011 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Stock audio wiring diagram


Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green/Orange
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the Driver Seat.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Tweeter Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Front Tweeter Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Left Front Mid Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Front Mid Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Left Front Low Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Left Front Low Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Tweeter Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Orange
Right Front Tweeter Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
Right Front Mid Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Mid Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Right Front Low Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Low Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue

pls rate
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May 11, 2010 | 2003 Kia Sorento

1 Answer

Testing this item


Depends on the mid-woofers you're using. I'd use the cross-over with the mids too first. Exparimenting won't hurt, just make sure the tweeters are run through the cross-overs or you'll smoke them quick.

Apr 18, 2010 | Kicker KS13 Car Tweeter

2 Answers

I have floor speakers that i replaced all the speakers in it with 4 ohm speakers and i just bought a onkyo receiver n it gets really hot and shut off 1 time....i was wondering if there is a way to wire it...


Home audio is typically 8 ohms. If the speakers you used were designed for mobile audio then this would be why the receiver is overheating. You may be overloading the output

Dec 04, 2009 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

No tweeter output


sorry but if the woofers work you have blown the mids and tweeters

Apr 30, 2009 | Yamaha RX-V663 Receiver

1 Answer

I have a kenwwod AX-7 home theatre systems. the right side top speaker (tweeter) on one side does not work. i'm thinking there is a fualt with the amplifier on the right side.


If the only problem is the tweeter, and the woofer is still working, you do not have a problem in the amplifier. The problem is the speaker. The tweeter is blown or you have a problem in the cross over network in the speaker.

You can always switch the speakers and connect them to the opposite channel. You can do this very easy at the back of the receiver where the speaker wires are at. Put the left speaker wires on the right speaker and the right speaker wires on the left speaker. If the same speaker still has no tweeter you know that the speaker is the problem.

The only way this could be a problem in the amplifier is if you have two different sets of inputs for each speaker, one being the low end for the woofer and the other being the high end for the mid range and tweeter. That would mean you have two sets of speaker wires going to each speaker. Each set of speaker wires would have a positive wire and a negative wire for a total of 4 wires going to each speaker. I don't remember this system being set up that way, but I could be wrong.

I hope this was helpful, you should be able to get the speaker fixed at an authorized Kenwood repair center in your area for a reasonable price. As a guide, my shop only charges $25 for the labor plus the cost of the tweeter to replace a tweeter. Any other shop should be similar. Kenwood does sell replacement drivers for almost all of their speakers.


Jun 21, 2008 | Kenwood Audio Players & Recorders

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