Question about Ovens
Model JTP28w0f1ww double oven
Lower oven seems fine but upper oven temperature control is suspect as follows:
@ 350 on the digital pad the oven temp measures 325
@ 400 on the digital pad it measures 375
@ 450 it measures 450
I opened the oven to cool below 450; closed and it recovered to 450 and held.
I opened the oven again to cool below 400; adj the pad to 400 and it recovered and held to 400;
I then opened the oven to cool below 350; adj the pad to 350 and it recovered and held to 350.
Would you suspect the probe or the main board?
Can I check the probe without pulling out the oven from the wall?
Any help is appreciated.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Oven won't heat accurately
Brad, your right on track. But I'd look toward the sensor first (The computer only does what the sensor tells it to do). I'll need the model number to find part numbers to help you further. The model number is on a sticker located on the oven body behind the lower drawer. It'll start with 3 digits then a decimal point the more digits (xxx.xxxxxxxx).
Posted on Sep 27, 2007
SOURCE: oven tempture
The solution I am proposing here only applys to electric ovens and not micro wave ovens.
The usual reason for fluctuating oven temperatures is a faulty or out of calibration thermostat.
Some thermostats can be recalibrated, but in my experience, it is better to replace it.
Another reason for fluctuating temperatures is a badly fitting oven door, or a worn or faulty door seal, the door should be a good firm fit agaist the seal.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
I had a similar problem today with my KitchenAid Superba wall convection oven (2002 model). I was roasting tomatoes at 225 degrees F for 3 or 4 hours when the control pad changed and showed that the probe was in use (never have I used it and had to look for it). I, too, tried to plug in the probe and take it out, but nothing changed. My worry was that I could no longer use the timed bake function. After trying to reset by turning off the oven at the breaker, with no change, I turned on the oven to 400 F and left it on for 10 - 15 minutes hoping that the high temperature would dry out whatever moisture that must have gotten in the place where the probe connects. Then I turned it off and just waited. After a half hour or so the control pad cleared and nothing showed (that is what you want when the oven is off!). Everything is back to working now.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 16, 2016 | GE Ovens
Dec 05, 2014 | GE Ovens
Mar 01, 2014 | GE Ovens
Dec 27, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Jun 02, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Mar 20, 2009 | GE 24" Built-In Single Gas Wall Oven
Jan 30, 2009 | Thermador Ovens
Jul 30, 2007 | GE JTP48 Electric Double Oven
Nov 17, 2006 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Jan 23, 2018 | GE Ovens
143 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!