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Re: Arien524 when clutch is engaged the wheels donot pull...
Sorry I should have posted this as a solution.
You might want to check the friction wheel to see if it is either worn down and needs adjusting or if it needs replacing.It could very well be just an adjusting. The friction wheel is located inside the panel under the engine. When looking inside the panel and you pull on the handle to engage the wheels you will see the round disc pull towards the friction wheel if it doesn't pull in tight enough you will have problems.Also check the belt and the idler pulley for the drive make sure the idler pulley moves easy and that it puts enough tension on the belt.
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When engaging the pto it is important that you have the clutch disengaged so that the pto gear is not spinning in the box.before it engages.
The pto gear runs off the counter shaft of the gear box and is spinning all the time the engine is running
when engaging the pto ,you are physically engaging a gear ( like selecting 1st gear) so you have to stop the counter shaft spinning so that the pto gear will engage with slashing
"On john deere la150, if i sit on seat and engage blades,,,nothing, but when i lift of seat, blades engage and motor shuts off. Replaced seat switch and did not fix problem" Okay, what I'm hearing is that "nothing" means the blades-driving PTO won't engage (declutch) when you switch on mower; but then, (say) as you start to dismount the mower (seat) the mower (drive clutch) engages even as the deadman switch (seat switch) kills the engine (and the drive/pto shaft starts to slow down. The key here seems to be that at full engine torque the clutch is unable to remain engaged but, rather, slips so that mower blade inertia (resistence) cannot be overcome...but as engine/pto rotation slows the clutch is able not to slip. First place to consider is the clutch gap which is probably to0 large (possibly from wear and tear, possibly not). So check specs and how-to from manual or factory and reset the pto drive clutch gap...not hard to do. If clutch gap is not the problem then most likely rehab or replacement of the clutch assy will be needed...is the mower has many years use sufficient to wear out the clutch. Another possiblity is an electic (wring/switching/grounding) problem involving mower and deadman switches.
You've probably put the belt on incorrectly or not put the clutch wheel or spring back correctly. When you press the clutch a jockey wheel on the drive belt should release the tension, allowing the belt to slip and the gears to be engaged.
Sounds like a problem with the governor. Start it up. Don't engage the blades. Drive to a hill. Idle all the way down. Try driving up the hill. The motor should pick up when it slows while pulling up the hill. If it doesn't, the governor isn't working right.
There are two types of starter, a bendix gear type,and a pre engaged type, neither should rotate with the engine running, with a pre engaged starter the gear is connected to the flywheel but when the engine starts a solinoid pulls the gear out of the flywheel, with a bendix type, the starter motor spins the bendix shaft which in turn winds the gear up and into the flywheel ring gear.
Cub Cadets have one of two types of PTOs. The most common is gear driven. The gear teeth of the PTO shaft are very small and thin. If the PTO is engaged without proper clutch action, the gear teeth grind together, trying to engage. A little wear on these gears will cause the surface of the gears to become beveled, and when the PTO comes under load, the beveled surfaces of the gear teeth force the gear lock to disengage. The only option is to replace the worn gears...
The second type of PTO drive is electric clutch. This is a disc type clutch that is engaged by energizing an electromagnet built into the clutch pack... any disruption of electrical power to the clutch pack while under load will cause the clutch to disengage and then possibly try to engage while under load and casues the clutch pack to slip and will overheat almost instantly...