Next time it dies check for spark. I would bet you have a coil that is braking down after a hot soak.
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SOURCE: fuel
It's an electrical problem, not mechanical (read: fuel filter is a good idea, but will not solve this symptom).
My diagnostic efforts would be directed to the ignition system first,as the symptoms sound like igntion more than fuel, and it's more complicated has more components, hence has more potential to fail. Get a haynes manual if you don't already have one and use the diagnosics there for ignition circuit and fuel system. available at autoparts store, amazon or haynes.com. It will be the best $20 you spent for your car.
Do all the other electrics work well when the car dies, check if headlights are dim and if the starter turns over strong when it dies? If not it could be a bad ground on either end of the 2 battery cables. If all other electric works OK when it dies, and you still think it's a fuel delivery problem, concentrate on the fuel pump circuit, pull the fuse and look for any slight corrosion, if found you need to at least spray electrical contact cleaner into the socket (use saftey glasses!!!) and clean the fuse or replace it. trace wires to fuel pump and find terminal connectors, pull them off and do the same thing.
good luck, I miss the '89 civic 1500 i used to own .. a tight, solid, fun little car
SOURCE: 88 Toyota Corolla backfires through carburetor.
If that is carbureted, and has a mechanical fuel pump, try running a length of fuel line from inlet side of pump to a gas can that has fresh, clean fuel, and if it runs good that way, you know problem is most likely in the tank. Removing the tank & cleaning it out is best solution from there. I'd even be tempted to add a small bottle or 2 of Lucas Fuel Sytem Cleaner to first fill in clean tank, just to help clean lines as well as carb.
SOURCE: 93 mitsubishi diamante, starts runs for 5 mins
Check all of the cables near intake. Make sure all of the sensors are pluged in. Since if sensors have plugs that are loose than you could have a problem of inconsistent runing.
SOURCE: car runs for 5 to 10 min then shuts off then wont
HI sound like you have problem whit the igniter
SOURCE: Falls on Its face 3-5 min of driving
Possibly the fuel filter is slowly plugging up while driving to the point of starving the engine, and when engine stops pressure slowly backfeeds the filter to slightly unplug ..enough to start and run for another couple of minutes.. also check EGR valve for sticking open sometimes a piece of carbon will hold the pintle open causing it to stall..also I know you checked fuel pressure but monitor it to see if it drops off after going down the road...I have seen this where fuel pump gives pressure but not enough after a while, this was caused by a torn pulsator which is the rubber connector between the pump and the fuel line inside the fuel tank...Good luck
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I replaced the coil, and the Crank sensor, with no change , turned out to be my Powertrain controll module
Was it missing spark?
No it wasnt, it seems the powertrain controll module or ECM was shuting down the fuel pump when it got to hot. so replaceing the ECM or Brain box which controlls all the motor functions took care of the problem
it was droping the fuel pressure just enough to shut down the engine
Ive run into that on older vans but usually the computer will stop controlling the ASD relay which will pretty much shut everything down.
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