Question about Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12 Speaker
When I turn on the sub, it makes a very loud pulsing sound, regardless of the output level, regardless of whether I have the receiver outlet wire plugged into it or not. It does not matter what outlet I plug into in the house. In the past, it has worked just fine and only when I hadn't used it for a few months then turned it on did it exhibit this.
Hey! So i fixed my problem! This is for the BassCube 10
Like i said before i saw that the circut board was burnt near the diodes ZD3 & ZD4, and the resistor R63. Thanks to Deadly1 and BillRad62, i figured it out. The R63 is a 1200 resistor, and the diodes are 15v zeners. I went with 3x 5.1v zeners to replace ZD3, unfortunately Rip-Off-Shack (Radioshack) didnt have 3 packs of these so for the ZD4 i put a 12v and 5.1v. Which exceeds 15, but seems to work without a problem. Hope it helps!
Posted on May 26, 2009
I had the same problem and it was the -15v supply smoothing cap C29 that was bad. I do see that the R62/R62 and zeners are both running very hot - I think this type of "brute-force" regulation is not good design - all it needs is a power transistor biased by the zener to provide proper regulation. Also the PSU is live and these components are therefore hot all the time the unit is plugged in the auto-on function controls the amp after the PSU, so I think I will alter the PSU design to add that as this has been a great unit all the time I have had it...
Posted on Jul 26, 2013
OK, my sub is back up and running. I finished replacing parts this afternoon, but I had some other work to do on the PCB. Here's how you can troubleshoot problems on most electronic equipment (including your BassCubes): inspect the entire PCB visually. Look for burned parts or parts that are cracked or damaged in any other way. That's a good indicator of the first batch of parts that need to be replaced. The next batch can be tested statically using a meter (to get more accurate readings, it may be necessary to unsolder one lead of the part and re-measure); caps should read near their rated value; resistors also; diodes will read open in one direction and considerably lower in the other; transistors read like two diodes connected end to end (anodes together or cathodes together); if you're not into electronics, don't bother trying to test the ICs. If I don't have an o-scope around, I'll just order new ICs and replace them too. Also, as I was putting my BassCube back together, I noticed how many poor solder joints I found and what poor components as well. At work, I would always inspect all solder joints under a microscope. If you don't have any magnifiers, just touch up all of the solder joints. That's what I did on my BassCube. I found quite a few bad joints and fixed those as well. Oh, one last thing: take photos of the PCB so you don't lose track of anthing you remove and replace. I hope that helps people out. Thanks to parris134 for the value of R63 (although I should have figured that out myself).
Posted on May 29, 2009
I have solved my issue with the basscube 12s - I found a bad zener diode that regulated the voltage
to one of the amplifiers power supplies. It was caused by a cold solder joint during manufacturing of the
circuit board. The amp is located behind the heatsink on the back of the cabinet. This symptom could
be caused by any of the components in the power supply circuits. Hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
When I googled the BassCube 12S, I found numerous reports of this issue. It appears that it means the amplifier is fried, and the only solution is to replace it. I recently sent mine back to Cambridge Soundworks for repairs, and am waiting for it to return. The shipping cost for me at UPS was $55, which makes the total cost of repair $130 when you add it to the $75 flat fee from CS. I hope it lasts long enough to be worth it, but I couldn't find a comparable new sub for the same price.
In regards to the wireless internet interference reported by Gneiss, it would be 'nice' if my problem was that simple, but I don't have a wireless router. And if you heard the sound most of us are referring to, I don't think it could be mistaken for an interference signal. As reported by others, there does not seem to be any precipitating cause for the amplifier to self destruct. It will be working just fine and then spontaneously die without warning.
I'll post again if my repair is successful.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
I had the a similar problem, it was picking up my wireless internet signal. I think any type of emitting electrical device, if in close proximity, can be pick up by the speaker.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
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