Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Freezer not cooling properly

I have a GE GSS25WGPABB. The freezer door was left open a crack for 24 hrs and the top shelf thawed bottom shelf was still frozen. Cleaned ice offf door and closed. Freezer will not cool beloe 20 deg. now. I believe the evap fan is inop. or the temp sensor for the fan are bad. What is the resistance I should be checking for on the temp sensors and the evap fan. Both are reading open?

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  • footeone Dec 13, 2008

    need resistance range for testing the evap fan and temp sensor for evap fan

  • footeone Dec 13, 2008

    anyone out there actually reading my question

  • footeone Dec 13, 2008

    need resistance range for testing the evap fan and temp sensor for evap fan

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8 Answers

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Fan resistance range can be 100 ohms to 200 ohms.
Regarding temp sensor, it would be thermostat switch and clicked on low temp and switched Off on bit high temp.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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It should be greater than 15 K ohms ...



Thanks.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Dec 13, 2008

    Electrical specifications:
    Power supply Voltage : 110 VAC/50Hz
    Voltage operating range : 90 to 140VAC
    Operating Temperature : -25�C to +85�C
    Relay output contact capacity : 16 Amps at 127 VAC (Inductive load)

    Sensor specification:
    Temperature sensor : NTC Thermistor (10K)
    Beta Value : 3977+/- 1% at 25/85�C
    Response time : > 20 seconds
    Operating Temperature : -40�C to + 85�C
    Insulation resistance : > 100 Mega ohms at 500VDC

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Have you re-adjusted the temperature control settings at all?

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Dec 13, 2008

    there seems to be no schematics available for this refridgerator:

    you can contact customer support here:

    http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/...

    regards


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The thermostat sensor is probably located in the top section right?

If so, it is reading the top temp and thinks it is cold enough.

Get a coolere full of ice. store your frozen goods there. unplug the fridge.
open all the freezer doors.
Make sure any ice is thowed out and nothing is obstructing the fan.
(The condensation could have frozen up to constrict the fan as well)

Plug it back up and turn the Tstat down, make sure the fan is operating, let it go for an hour or so and check the temp in both compartments.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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Hello footeone , Is the motor running" ?
Make sure the compressor is running and not just a fan motor.
Unplug it for 30 mins then it back in. Listen for the compressor to start running, if you hear a clicking noise and the compressor never starts running then the relay needs to be replaced. If the compressor is in fact running and it will not cool then you may be low on coolant.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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Hi,

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • Priya darshan Dec 13, 2008

    If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

    First, answer these questions:



    • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



    • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


    Next, see if the compressor motor is running

    The
    compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's
    on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it
    is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still
    not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of
    several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified
    appliance repair technician for further help.

    If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:


  • The compressor



  • The Thermostat



  • The overload, relay, or capacitor



  • The defrost timer



  • The condenser fan motor



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Hi,

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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  • GE Master
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U MAY HAVE JUST OVERHEATED THE COMPRESSOR MODULE, LET IT COOL, TURN IT OFF BY DISCONNECTING THE POWER, THEN AFTER 5 MIN'S SWITCH BACK ON AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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