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Re: seals perished on hydrolic magura race line brakes ?
Got that one in one , i use a website in northern ireland called Chainreactioncycles and they carry Magura brakes complete and parts, i know its an online shop but i buy everything from them and the bargains are fantastic and shipping minimal
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Don't use a screw driver. That means you have hydrolic brakes. Take it to a bike shop. It is relatively difficult to open w/o damage it is easy to damage. Also, pick up some disk brake spacers that you put in when you remove the wheel to prevent just this problem.
I will assume you have the hydraulic brakes and that is the fluid you are referring too.
If you have never done any hydraulic maintenance you will need a number of parts and tools to fix a leak, especially at the lever. The best solution would be too drop the bike off with your local mechanic/ bike shop and have them properly fix the system. After 5 years your lines and seals are most likely cracking and you need to replace the housing and seals at minimum + rebleed the brakes with the proper oil. Either way to tell you exactly what parts you need someone needs to see the bike. Take it into the shop as suggested already so they can at least tell you which seal kit and which bleed kit you need as well as the proper oil. you will need to buy all this from the shop anyway, ask them the cost difference between buying the parts and kits to do yourself and them doing the work for you.
follow the procedure carely.
remove the brake hose from the caliper.
now clean it up and reinsert it.
now kick the brake strongly.keep in this pressed position.
now pour the brake oil into the master cylinder(fully).
now release the brake pedal and strongly kick the brakes twice and release it.
make sure to close the brake master cylinder closed.
Thats it your done..... have a safe ride!!!
When you squeeze the brakes, the rubber pad should NOT be flat against the rim. Instead, the FRONT of the rubber pad should be a bit closer to the rim than the back part of the pad (about 1 mm or 1/16th inch).
Also, you can try to put fine sandpaper (150 grit) between the rim and brake pad, with the rough part facing the brake. Squeeze the brakes lightly and move the wheel a small amount to scuff the brake pad to remove any dirt on it.
Set the height of the pads and turn them so they line up with the rim. Next squeeze them tight against the rim with your fingers and then pull the lower end of the cable through to take up slack and tighten the cable clamp nut. Fine adjustment can be made at the handle bars.
remove front wheel
undo allen screw or bolt securing headstem to fork
remove headstem and handlebars
undo lock nut & ring retaining bearings, at top of fork tube, do not lose bearings which may be loose.
withdraw fork from fork tube, do not lose upper bearing race
remove lower bearing from old fork
install lower bearing on new fork (I prefer replacing bearings)
remove brake caliper from old fork install on new fork
insert fork in fork tube
install upper bearing (I prefer replacing bearings)
install retaining ring and lock nut on fork tube, adust untill there is no wobble, but free movement, too tight the bearings will collapse too loose the rider will fall off
tighten lock nut
tighten headstem allen key - bolt
install front wheel