Question about Frigidaire PLEF398AC Electric Kitchen Range
I AM SERVICEING A FRIGIDAIRE RANGE M#PLEFM399DCB. IVE ALREADY REPLACED THE CLOCK ASSEMBLY AND THE POWER SUPPLY/RELAY BOARDS. I GET ERROR CODES F7,F20,F22.THE PREVIOUS SEVICEMAN BEFORE THAT CAME OUT TO FIX ANOTHER PROBLEM WHILE UNIT WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY TOOK THE TECH SHEET WITH HIM AND FRIGIDAIRE SAID THEY CANT SUPPLY ANOTHER. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE INTERMITTANT. THE LONGEST TIME THE UNIT WENT WITHOUT BEEPING WAS APPROX 48 HRS AT THANKSGIVING. IS IT POSSIBLE THAT IVE GOT A OVEN TEMP PROBE WITH AN INTERMITTANT PROBLEM? IVE BEEN SERVICEING APPLIANCES FOR ALMOST 30 YEARS, BUT IM REALY PULLING MY HAIR OUT ON THIS ONE.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: frigidaire ples389ece range
That website has a manual for your Range and it should explain the F20 code.
I'm gonan look through the manual and check out what F20 means so ill be back in a bit.
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
SOURCE: frigidaire cooktop beeping f7
Happy to help you!
Go online to www.Frigidaire .com and you can enter your model # and download the manual.
if you can not locate the answer in the book,
I think that this problem will be solved only by service!
A & E factory service is good and nation wide!
They answer 24/7
Thank you Neil
PS.Please do not forget to give me a problem solved rating
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
Service tech came the next morning (Nov.26th). The sensor tested out OK. He said that the control board needs to be replaced. Unfortunately there wasn't one available for this model - he had to order it, and he'll be back next week. The good news is that my lovely wife had purchased an extended warranty - so it appears that all parts and labor is covered. We all ended up eating out for the Thanksgiving holiday, and no- the restaurant bill wasn't covered by the warranty. I'll keep you posted on the control board replacement.
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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