I have been powering my Soliloquy 5.0s with the Conrad Johnson MF2500A, a 240 watts/ch amp for a few years now. I have done this with care since I should have used much lower powered amp for these bookshelves. This evening, there was an accident, as I was trying to lower the volume via the remote and all of a sudden, a loud blast occurred and I smelled something burning. One of the speakers now has a much lower volume and muffled sound. Have I burned the voice-coil or something like that? I may have no choice but ship that one speaker to Soliloquy for repair. Please advise.
Re: one speaker has much lower volume than the other
No i beleave you blew out a channel ...move the good speaker to the other jack that way you can tell if it the amp or the speaker (speakers dont smoke or smell when blown ..AMPS do!
please rate my responce to you
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to check both the Ohms range of both devices, plus the output power of them too.
The ohms range is the most crucial. For example if the amp will only go down to 8 ohms, you cannot connect speakers lower than that. No speaker must have an ohms rating lower than your amp. Higher doesn't matter.
Many amps have a range on them say 4 to 16 ohms. But the crucial one is the smaller figure.
The power output is less problematic. For example if the amp is 30 watts per channel, then you should connect a speaker of at least that, or more. But you could still connect say 25 watt speakers. However you MUST NEVER turn up to full volume or you will blow the speakers!
The watts of the speakers are not too important when connecting to an amp. With large wattage speakers such as yours the amp will drive them. What you only need to worry about is someone turning the volume up to much, but only if the Sony amp can deliver a greater wattage than the speakers. If it can it will destroy the speakers at the highest levels.
However when connecting speakers to any amp, you must look at the Ohms of the two items. You must NEVER connect a speaker of lower Ohms to an amp of higher Ohms than it. Must amps and speakers will fall between 4 to 16 Ohms. If your amp says 4 ohms you can connect just about speaker to it. But if says 8 Ohms, you must not connect any speaker rated lower than 8 Ohms. Connecting a 4 Ohm speaker to an 8 Ohm amp will destroy the output transistors of the amp.
Speaker requirements are likely to be 8 ohm, most modern hi-fi speakers are. A few low-fi systems have used special high impedance speakers and the old hi-fi standard for valve amplifiers was 15 ohm and 3 ohm or lower has been used in televisions a lot.
4 ohm speakers are commonly used where a higher power output is desired at the cost of some quality of sound reproduction but depending on how the sound is listened to can soon overload some amplifiers primarily designed for 8 ohm as it will try and deliver more power into the lower impedance speakers and perhaps exceed the rating.
8 ohms is a safer choice. The lower the wattage rating of the speakers the more efficiently they tend to be able to reproduce sound at low volume levels so for background music in a small domestic environment the average power requirement will be in the order of half a watt so even with a high powered amplifier the volume would rarely be turned up above 1 - 2 on the typical scale of 10 and ten watt speakers would be more than adequate. It is unfortunate that it is almost impossible to obtain quality speakers rated at such an unfashionably low power rating.
With the stiffer cones of a higher power rated speakers the volume has to be turned higher before the speakers become efficient and listening at low levels can be difficult. In a domestic environment a 50 watt rating is perhaps the best compromise as if there are neighbours to consider a ten watt average power output will be sufficient even if the amplifier is capable of higher powers. Just don't turn the volume up more than necessary.
The greater the power rating the more power will be required for efficient reproduction. For electrical and mechanical safety of the speakers the rating should exceed the maximum output of the amplifier but listening at low levels with quality of sound can become virtually impossible.
Yes they will, but alway be careful with audio gear.
There are 30 watt speakers that can handle peaks of 500 watts for a short time. There are also 500 watt speakers I can "kill" with a peak less than 500 watt.
Most amplifier manufactures like to boost about the power an amplifier can deliver and their speakers can handle. But as long as they don't tell how long the speaker can handle the power and at what frequencies the value does not say anything.
Whit high power amplifiers, never switch over while the volume if at maximum.
You know what I mean. I can't hear my CD player. first turn the volume to the max and then press the CD button, and the speakers will explode. Always when you preaa any button on the pre amp juts lower de volume first and you won't destroy your speakers.
My old Kef Concerto's are almost 40 years of age. 30 watt and are running on a 500 watt Yamaha amplifier for years now. And believe me my chidden know how to punish a speaker. Never any problem, nr with the speakers, nor with the amplifiers.
You cant bridge it to the MONO AMP . You can only bridge subs & speakers to 2 CH & 4 CH AMPS that are bridgeable. Because if it appears that there is 2 channels on a Mono amp its so its convenient for you to hook up 2 4ohm subs to it easily But both channels are actually connect internally together in parallel inside the amp unlike a 2 channel they are separate.
So just connect your mtx 9500 to a plus and a minus and doesnt matter which since all the + terminals of are connected together and - are connected together already.
Whats important is on the side of the sub/box it reads 2 ohms. The lower the ohms the more power the Mono amp will put out. Mono amps are designed to handle 2ohm loads.
If it reads 4ohms The MONO amp is the wrong amp to use cause the power will be weaker. So if you have a 1000 Watt Mono amp at 4ohms the sub will only get 500 WATTS Max while a 2 ohm will get the full 1000 Watts.
If it reads 4 ohms connect it to a 2CHANNEL AMP and BRIDGE IT (connect + of the sub to 1st channels positive of the amp then connect - of the sub to 2nd channels negative of the amp) . The power will be doubled when you bridge it on a 2 channel amp. NOW if it was a 2 ohm sub and you bridged it to the 2 channel amp it will fry the subs and ruin the amp. 2 CHANNELS CANT TAKE A 2OHM LOAD BRIDGED OK.
Sounds like you have burnt out something (as you probably already know LOL) but maybe you just over heated some wires that couldn't take the Amperage. If this is the case, you MUST find out:
Why there was so much Amperage there at the time
Why didn't the Fuse blow? (perhaps too high an Amperage fuse for the Unit?) and
Why could your unit not handle the Power? (perhaps not Rated for that Power Output?).
Note: Watts and Amperage are not Musical terms, they are Electrical terms. So an Amplifier Increases the output Current to a maximum level designated in various ways as PMP (common but misleading) RMS (the International Standard) and DIN (the mainly European standard). The receiving unit (in this case your sub woofer is designed to handle a maximum level of Current input and this is usually desribed (again misleadingly) as simply Wattage. The common factor here is that both your Amplifier and Sub woofer are probably using the PMP rating.
If this is the case then you can easily determine if the 2 units are compatible using their "Wattages". For instance, a 275 Watt amplifier is too much at HIGH outputs (volume) for a set of speakers Rated at 160 Watts (they will "blow") but will work fine at Lower volumes because the Amp is putting out less Power at Lower volumes and is therefore probably below the Speakers Maximum input range.
Conversely, it is OK if the speakers are Rated for higher inputs than your Amplifier can put out. For example, a 175 Watt amplifier is fine with speakers Rated for 240 Watts because it can never produce enough power to "blow" the speakers.
Just putting in heavier wires will almost certainly bow up the sub woofer if the initial problem is not solved.
Take it to a HI FI shop and get them to look at it. If they simply say "Can't repair these, buy this one", try another shop.
if you have a main speaker system working properly, takea known good amp to ch2. wire the main pre amp out to amp 2 input.. turn both units on(no spkrs connected), fire it up. if the amp does not go into protect mode, turn ALL power off to the system.,connect one Spkr channel on A2, AND TURN THE VOLUME DOWN FIRS!!!!. pOWER UP THE SYSTEM AND SEE WHAT YOU GET.BE GENTLE WITH VOLUME SETTINGD! If ch 1 works, repeat procedure with ch 2 pre amp out.