Profile mono 1000watt amp

If you have over driven the amp by playing it real loud with the bass control turned up, it is very possible that you have toasted the output stages of amp.
Every time you boost a tone control by 3 db you have doubled the output power at that frequency. So if you are "coasting" along at a nominal 75 watts, the moment you boost the bass by 3 db the amp has to put out 150 watts at that low frequency.. Go to +6db and now the poor amp has to kick out 300 watts! And so on.

Rule of thumb - you never use your tone controls at very loud levels. Tone controls are there to compensate for the poor frequency response of the human ear at low volume levels - the Fletcher Munsen effect. At low volumes our hearing with the lows and high frequencies so when you play something at low volume you boost up the bass and treble to compensate for poor hearing. At loud volumes our ears respond properly.

Hi, With my sound engineers hat on I would use a small PA. mixer, amp and speakers!!!!
For quality you need a full, flat frequency range system with good headroom.
I assume this is for your own listening, when using an acoustic kit?
There are one box solutions.

1. Drum amps. Like a monitor wedge with an amp, Roland do a PM-10, Various other makes are available.
2. General purpose powered wedge.
3. Keyboard Amp, these are full range and available in various sizes.
4. Bass amp with high frequency driver (tweeter), not the best but will have good bottom end.
5. Powered or active speaker, much like a powered wedge, but a different shape, needs an input volume control.

All these systems need to have large bass units, 10 inch minimum, and will be in mono. Two will give you stereo,
How loud depends primarily on the sensitivity of the speaker. But manufactures insist on selling things by power. Worth looking this up.
At a couple of feet away, 20 watts should do it, with high sensitivity speakers, more likely you find most things as above start at about 70 Watts.
Good luck, I hope I have widened you choices a bit.
All the best, Chris the Fader.

What are the exact model numbers of those amps? More than likely your 2.8K Watt amp is a complete lie, very few amps can deliver that power, if you paid under $1000 for it it's probably not likely to ever do that output, also some amps are rated at higher input voltages like 19 volts or more to achieve there advertised output but even then most will only do a fraction of what they claim. At 12volts and making those claims you'll find that Boss is a prime example so is the low end Lanzar along with many others out for sale now a days. A 2800 watt MAX amp rating is really a 150 watt x 2 output and that will be at 2 ohms, I'm not sure how it all started but way back when (back in the late 80's early 90's) there were only amps that had real power ratings and they were 25watts x 2 up to 200 watts x2 and the 25 watt amps were louder than most of these 1000watt amps you see now. A true 200 watt x 2 amp bridged in mono back then would deliver 800Watts into 4 ohms 1600 watts into 2 ohms and cost about a dollar a watt. The 25 watt x 2 amps I had would put out 400 watts in mono at 1 ohm. So you see power ratings now are just not even anything you can use unless the amp is certified to be compliant with the new car stereo rating system. Even then I cannot guarantee which amp will be louder or sound better without actually connecting it up and hearing it myself. That's how car stereo shopping used to be, you listened to the amps all side by side and realized that size, cost and power ratings make no difference until you hear the amps, then size & cost are considered. Power ratings are then forgotten all together.

1st have your subs facing inwards towards the front of the car, not facing out the boot, This creates a better bass.

Wire 1 sub to one channel and the other sub to the other channel.

Turn down your gain as low as possible and then power everything up.

turn volume to desired loudness and then start turning up the gain slowly, if distorts a little turn in back down a notch.

avoid using bass boost, I agree it sounds great but it puts more strain on your amp and shortens its life.

after sorting out your gain, tweak all others until sound is bassy and clear with no distortion.

If you would like to use bass boost, turn on bass boost first, then up your gain etc.

what product brand did you install. do you set the amps x-over and gains a sub sonic filter right
need to see if the amp is on check led light on amp. make sure your subs ohm load is correct for the amp.

let us an example fake amp 500x2channel max output 1000watts

if you wire your subs at 4 ohms you 250x2 rms stereo
if you wire your subs at 2 ohms you 500x2 rms stereo
if you wire your subs at 4 ohm mono you get 1000 watts

if you have the input voltage of 14.4 all the time at the amp

whats the equipment power

crack the windows and drop the sony bull **** and get your self a nice mono block class d amp 1000 rms should be loud enough btw bild your stereo based on rms power not max power rms is the true power you got so like 2 500 watt rms 12s on a 1000 watt rms amp or just a 1000 watt woofer it will be jsut as loud as the 2 12s

this is caused by inproper wiring from the speakers/subs to the amplifier.. an amp will still put out power to subs and speakers when it's wired improperly but it won't last for very long doing it... 6 months is longer than usual....

Hello anne845,

It sounds like the installer wired the amp remote turn-on terminal to an "accessory" lead in your vehicle. Many stock radios do not have a dedicated amp turn-or lead and the alternative is to connect the amp to a switched power source (ignition or accessory). This means the amp turns on whenever you turn on the vehicle ignition, often resulting in a thumping from the subs. It is a perfectly satisfactory alternative, and will not damage either the amp or the sub. But it's irritating.

If the thumping is objectionable, have your installer wire a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) toggle switch inline with the turn-on wire. The switch should be mounted so it is accessible by the driver, and whenever you turn on the radio, turn on the toggle switch.

Hope this helps.

Hello termite440,

A mono amp will generally provide more power for subs. And for those Audiobahn's, you'll want something that will provide a minimum of 500-600 watts RMS to each, a least a 1000 watt amp. At the low end, something like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or the Orion HCCA-D2400 will provide 1000-1200 watts. I'd recommend the Alpine. For more power, and another $100, look at the Alpine M2000, or for another $250, the Rockford-Fosgate T1500-1bd.

Hope this helps.

your problem could be in the fact that you are trying to overdrive the amp. sony will not carry a 1 ohm stable load and if your speaker are 4 ohm speakers wired in series then you cant drive the bass your looking for. try using soundstream tarantula amp or new hifonics block mono class d amp with about 1000 watts rms. what kicker subs do you have? that will also make the difference in amp choice. im running tarantula on 4 polk momo 4 ohm 12's and has broke my back glass in my jeep twice one time was for a show. oh well let me know. happy boom boom. i'll be glad to help