I have a 1000 watt amp, after a few seconds of playing it makes like a loud bass noise and it doesnt go away unless i unplugg it. They have told me that it's bcuz it doesnt have cooling fans so it heats up. but i dont know. Hopefully somebody can give me some advice.
Cooling fins won't make a difference when you first turn it on. You would have to play it loud for 10 of 15 minutes to get it hot. It could be a bad ground from the rca's if thats how you have it hooked up. Wiggle the plugs where they plug into the amp, if it cuts in and out it might have a broken solder joint where the conductor for the outer rings of the rca terminals is soldered into the main board. If this isn't the problem something inside is shorted like a power supply or output transistor, cap, bias resistor, If you are using speaker level inputs double check the wiring. Sometimes using only 1 wire for the left and 1 wire for the right will work better. Never run speaker level wires directly into an rca input without a speaker level to rca level adapter.
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If you have over driven the amp by playing it real loud with the bass control turned up, it is very possible that you have toasted the output stages of amp.
Every time you boost a tone control by 3 db you have doubled the output power at that frequency. So if you are "coasting" along at a nominal 75 watts, the moment you boost the bass by 3 db the amp has to put out 150 watts at that low frequency.. Go to +6db and now the poor amp has to kick out 300 watts! And so on.
Rule of thumb - you never use your tone controls at very loud levels. Tone controls are there to compensate for the poor frequency response of the human ear at low volume levels - the Fletcher Munsen effect. At low volumes our hearing with the lows and high frequencies so when you play something at low volume you boost up the bass and treble to compensate for poor hearing. At loud volumes our ears respond properly.
What are the exact model numbers of those amps? More than likely your 2.8K Watt amp is a complete lie, very few amps can deliver that power, if you paid under $1000 for it it's probably not likely to ever do that output, also some amps are rated at higher input voltages like 19 volts or more to achieve there advertised output but even then most will only do a fraction of what they claim. At 12volts and making those claims you'll find that Boss is a prime example so is the low end Lanzar along with many others out for sale now a days. A 2800 watt MAX amp rating is really a 150 watt x 2 output and that will be at 2 ohms, I'm not sure how it all started but way back when (back in the late 80's early 90's) there were only amps that had real power ratings and they were 25watts x 2 up to 200 watts x2 and the 25 watt amps were louder than most of these 1000watt amps you see now. A true 200 watt x 2 amp bridged in mono back then would deliver 800Watts into 4 ohms 1600 watts into 2 ohms and cost about a dollar a watt. The 25 watt x 2 amps I had would put out 400 watts in mono at 1 ohm. So you see power ratings now are just not even anything you can use unless the amp is certified to be compliant with the new car stereo rating system. Even then I cannot guarantee which amp will be louder or sound better without actually connecting it up and hearing it myself. That's how car stereo shopping used to be, you listened to the amps all side by side and realized that size, cost and power ratings make no difference until you hear the amps, then size & cost are considered. Power ratings are then forgotten all together.
crack the windows and drop the sony bull **** and get your self a nice mono block class d amp 1000 rms should be loud enough btw bild your stereo based on rms power not max power rms is the true power you got so like 2 500 watt rms 12s on a 1000 watt rms amp or just a 1000 watt woofer it will be jsut as loud as the 2 12s
this is caused by inproper wiring from the speakers/subs to the amplifier.. an amp will still put out power to subs and speakers when it's wired improperly but it won't last for very long doing it... 6 months is longer than usual....
I dont know if this will help you but start at the deck and make sure that the outputs(RCA) arent crossed over to highpass and do the same at the amp make sure that its set for lowpass- set half gain -bass boost half gain- subsonic minimum - If that doesnt help try using an i pod with an adaptor that you can play it right into the amp this is to see if you are getting signal from the deck to the amp if it doesnt work with an i pod or mp3 plugged directly into it then you may have got you a blown amp going on- good luck with that
A mono amp will generally provide more power for subs. And for those Audiobahn's, you'll want something that will provide a minimum of 500-600 watts RMS to each, a least a 1000 watt amp. At the low end, something like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or the Orion HCCA-D2400 will provide 1000-1200 watts. I'd recommend the Alpine. For more power, and another $100, look at the Alpine M2000, or for another $250, the Rockford-Fosgate T1500-1bd.
your problem could be in the fact that you are trying to overdrive the amp. sony will not carry a 1 ohm stable load and if your speaker are 4 ohm speakers wired in series then you cant drive the bass your looking for. try using soundstream tarantula amp or new hifonics block mono class d amp with about 1000 watts rms. what kicker subs do you have? that will also make the difference in amp choice. im running tarantula on 4 polk momo 4 ohm 12's and has broke my back glass in my jeep twice one time was for a show. oh well let me know. happy boom boom. i'll be glad to help