Question about Hotpoint HTR16BBSL Top Freezer Refrigerator

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Temporarily runs I have an older Hotpoint fridge and not sure of the model. I do know that it is an energysave type. Problem is that sometime it runs and sometimes it doesn't. The outer casing appears to be cold and when the freezer fan is running it does send cold air. I have to unplug it from time to time and hope that it engages. What problems should I be looking for? I have vaccuumed out the bottom of the unit and have checked the condensor coild in the freezer to make sure they're clean. Is it worth fixing?

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If your machine is an automatic defrost type, the problem could be that the defrost cycle is not working properly. it will typically work for about 2 weeks then stop cooling as ice builds up on the evaporator. If the compressor is not running then it could be a starting mechanism which needs to be replaced. Both of these repairs are considerably less than the cost of a new fridge. If the compressor will not run even with a new starting mechanism then it will need to be replaced a a considerable cost.

Posted on Mar 11, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

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Your fridge's compressor motor is suspended inside the compressor housing on three or four springs. These springs are designed to hold the motor load in a vertical position. Transporting a fridge on it's side can stretch or break these springs which can cause a shudder stop condition (the fridge makes a shuddering banging noise everytime the compressor stops and sometimes when it starts).

It's a good idea to let a fridge sit for a bit anytime it is moved. Over night won't hurt but an 8-10 hours is more than enough time some say less.


the internet consensus seems to be that you should limit the amount of time the unit is not upright. And as stated above, leave it upright at least overnight before starting it. Apparently damage can arise from mixing of lubricant and coolant, so damage is more likely in an older unit with worn seals.

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Make sure that the temp probe from the thermostat is located exactly where the old one was. If it had a plastic sleeve on the old one, the new one will need that sleeve. You shouldn't need to calibrate the control if it is the one specified for this model. If it was a generic replacement then possibly it could need some adjustment.

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WHEN U TALK ABOUT THE THERMOSTAT U MEAN THE COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT OR DEFROST TIMER THERMOSTAT? WHEN UR PROBLEM SOUNDS MORE LIKE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR OR BAD HEATING ELEMENT, LOCATED ON THE FREEZER EVAPORATOR COILS? IF ITS STAYING ON ALL THE TIME U HAVE A DEFROST ISSUE? OR BAD SEALS ON DOOR AND DIRTY COMPRESSOR
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Make sure it is level.

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Remove the cover then unscrew the bulb.

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1 Answer

Got a hotpoint ffa97, freezer was still cold and no alarm had gone off to say that that there had been a power cut yet the fridge temp had risen enough to curdle milk??\r\ntemp gauge was still showing...


Milk can sometimes curdle in a working fridge. But it does sound like your defrost system may be malfunctioning. Can you empty your freezer and inspect the defrost system behind the air circulator fan?

I know that defrost elements sometimes go bad and the controllers can pop too. You should check your operators manual and see how to put the fridge into manual defrost. *(it usually involves turning the fridge light on and off by hand. See if the freezer drains during manual defrost. If you have lots of food that dries out in a frost free unit the moisture contains a lot of contaminants that can plug the defrost drain. Which leads to a blocked air passage between the freezer and fridge sides.

You might want to get a small backup fridge for a while to run this down.
Or just use up the food in your fridge before running the tests.

Good luck and be careful.

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1 Answer

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When the automatic defrost cycle runs, the refrigerator has to drain about a quart of water into the catch-pan beneath the fridge, where it evaporates.

Look for the drain tube at the bottom of the freezer and make sure it is not blocked. Remove the lower-front kick panel and, of this model has a drain pan, make sure it's installed and not knocked out of position.

Some units use a little plastic bucket instead of a catch-pan, and sometimes these are sized too small so that they overflow easily.

Some fridges have a 'humid/normal' switch which prevents condensation from forming on door seals.

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I couldn't find that info but it's sometimes on your model/serial tag inside the fridge. I'm guessing from the model # that it's a 15 cube.

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Sounds like its the evap fan motor to me. Not very easy to axcess. I have had one GE make the same noises you are describing to me. Let me know if you are going to attempt it and need more assistance

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