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Cond. Unit FAN on an Rheem/Ruud Heat pump Model 10PJA4201

After replacing a bad Defrost cycle Board with a new updated model which has an Coil tyemp sensor & an Air temp sensor the cond.Fan is NOW drawing Air in thru the Top instead of thru the coils and out the Top, there was only rwo Fan contact taps with push pull connections, I only removed and installed one wire at a time, the wire are in the same places as was on the Old board, Is the Fan running the wrong direction, if so will it hurt anything? it is heating and cooling the way it is running

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6 Suggested Answers

watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud heat pump outside unit trips circuit breaker

Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.

Posted on Nov 20, 2007

dcp2
  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: split air cond fault

Need more information. What brand is it and also would be nice to know the model

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

chillmaster
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud achiever heat pump

If back-up heat comes on when a/c is turned on and then the back up heat turns off shortly after the a/c turns off, then the low voltage wiring is NOT correct. Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. this could also be your problem if the t-stat thinks it is telling the H/P to cool but the H/P is actuall interpreting the signal to heat. Check your amp draw on the furnace, if you have anything drawing 15 amps+ then it is most likely the actual elect heat running, if not then check the "B" terminal. Most universal t-stats come set from the factory to use the "O" terminal which is more common. Usually this can be changed in the installer setup menu on the stat or sometimes the stat will have separate "O" and "B" terminals

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

  • 182 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud Heat Pump

this may indicate you have low voltage but no high voltage.check fuses and breakers.

Posted on Aug 09, 2008

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: v- lec MODEL ASW-H18A4/HSA air conditioner compressor cuts out.

If you get the numbers off the board give this web site a try. I live in the city they have shop in and they are very good.



http://www.wsconet.com/

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: fan coil unit won't cool or heat in room1 while room2 runs well

could be undercharged, or overcharged, or wires weren't put back on valves in unit.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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Rheem heat pump not coming on in heat mode. Control board has two LED lights # 1 solid, #2 blinking. What does this mean?


Usually wen the led lights are blinking it means there is a problem. If you look on the door or the cover there should be a code that tells you what the blinking represents.

Example - one blink per second - compressor, two blinks - fan motor, etc. The other thing you can do is look up the model number on line for the installation manual and it should have all the info you need.

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My sister has a Ruud Achiever High efficency heat pump Model UPLA-049JAZ Serial #6408-M389910353 they just moved into this house in ND and have no information on this system..Over the winter it was...


There are 3 possiblites

1. you have a bad defrost board or defrost sensor.

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Our air con runs, on heat, and after a time cuts out, blows cold and makes a sort of hissing noise (but not a real hiss) and then shuts down. It then restarts after a couple of minutes. Is this normal?


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Bryant heat pump model 697bno36-b froze up (solid block of ice) in low teens. I need to find the defrost timer to adjust or replace.


If you have the newer style control , it is part of the general circuit board and cannot be replaced seperately. There usually is an adjustment the can change time interval of defrost such as 45,60,90,120 minutes. On older models, there is a seperate control that either worked by time or by air restriction that has a tube that senses the air flow through the coil (this tube could be blocked or disconnected. Other possibility, is the reversing valve (Ihope not). This reversing valve has aelectric coil on it that activates the valve (if coil is bad it can be replaced;no big deal). If the valve itself is bad, then you got a big problem. To check this out, turn off unit. Wait 5 minutes, then turn system to air cond,(cold) and run the system on cold for a few minutes. If you get cold air (inside the house) then the reverse valve is ok; by the way, this will remove the ice and tell you that the defrost cycle circuit is the problem. Goodluck,Macgivor

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Check to see if there's low voltage reaching the contactor's coil. If there is. and it doesn't close (pull in), then it's defective and should be replaced. Cut the power and check ohms to be certain.

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Start with the simplest first it,s not fun but it's necessary EVERY TIME. Clean your evaporator and condenser coil, change your air filter. Getting to the evap. coil is often a real headache and a result doesn't get done often. When its clogged as you probably know the refrigerant can't absorb heat at the coil so it tries to absorb heat on the way to the compressor freezing the hot gas line the safety circuits that protect the heat pump compressor from getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor almost immediately will take the compressor of line (looking somewhat like a defrost cycle). I hope this helps it's a tough repair GL!

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