WHILE RUNNING NORMALLY IN A 3 YEAR OLD MILDLY MOIST BASEMENT , THE UNIT WILL START LEAKING WATER FROM THE SIDE OF THE UNIT OPPOSITE OF WHERE THE ' L ' SHAPED CONTINUOUS GARDENHOSE CONNECTION IS . THE TOP OF THE UNIT FEELS VERY COLD [ ALMOST FROZEN? ] AND WARMER THAN USUAL ON THE SIDES. IF I TURN IT OFF FOR ABOUT 6 HOURS AND TURN IT ON AGAIN IT WORKS OK FOR ABOUT 5 DAYS AND DOES THE SAME THING AGAIN. I HAVE IT SET AT 55% CONTINUOUS. IT IS 6 MONTHS OLD . ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE APPRECIATED , THANKS ! JERRY
Re: H20 POURS OUT OF THE UNIT BEFORE BUCKET IS FULL
It sounds like your unit is freezing up. Let it set for a day then set to run on the 3 hr cycle. Also rase the % of humidity to 60 or 65, and if it starts working lower the % setting in a few days by 5% increments until you get to the setting you want. Also read your owners manual troubleshooting section lots of good tips.
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Jeanne, unless your unit is what's called a "Low Temperature" unit (these are designed for basement application) , that may be the problem. In addition, the air intake filter may need to be removed & cleaned.
If yours is not a Low Temp model, raising it up of the floor onto a sturdy table or counter top that can handle the weight of the unit and a full bucket of water, may solve the problem. The reason for this is in a basement, the air temp at floor level is colder than at shoulder level. Non Low temp units struggle to operate at temperatures below 65 degrees. Raising the unit up off the floor onto a sturdy table or counter top, that is strong enough to handle the weight of the unit, plus a full bucket of water, will usually resolve the problem.
I hope this information helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
Robert, The water tubing that runs form the interior of the unit to the water bucket is clogged to solve this problem, turn the unit OFF & unplug it. Then do the following.
the water collection bucket and look up inside the bucket holder
cavity. You will see either a drain hole or small tubing that drains the
water into the bucket. Using an appropriately sized, 18" long, plastic
Zip Tie, carefully insert the tip of Zip Tie into the hole or tubing.
Continue to push it in until you reach a bend in the tubing. You will
need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past this bend, until it either
bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Then slowly pull the Zip
Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will breakup any clogs.
As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared, as some water
may follow. Reinstall the bucket, plug the unit in and turn the Master
ON/OFF Switch to ON. Set the humidity extraction level to 35% or
Maximum if you have a manually controlled unit. Allow the unit to run,
while you monitor it for any leakage.
NOTE: Is you don't have access to a Zip Tie, you can use something similar that flexible, like a long pipe cleaner. But, NO wire coat hangers.
I hope this helps you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
Yes, the first suggestion is I hope your dad can get it back together without any parts left over (LOL). Over heating is generally caused by an clogged or dirty air intake filter. Simply removing it and vacuuming it or if it's really dirty, washing it in warm water and mild dish washing liquid will clean it. Rinse it thoroughly, shake off excess water and allow to dry completely. Never operate the unit without the filter in place. Doing so, can damage the unit.
Getting back to the heat for a moment and where you're using your dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers do generate heat, it's not abnormal. Operating it in a basement can cause it to over heat. This happens because the air temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder level. Dehumidifiers struggle in temperatures below 65 degrees F (unless you have a Low temp unit, designed for basement applications). Raising the unit up off the floor, on to a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that an handle the weight of the unit, plus a full bucket of water, will generally resolve the problem. Actually, a basement application , higher is better.
I hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
There are 5 basic, but solvable reasons for what you described. Please pay particular attention to numbers 1& 2. 1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%. If you have a mechanical unit, uni, set the control knob to Maximum.
2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed, allow filter to completely dry before reinstalling. DO NOT operate the unit without the filter.
3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.
4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.
5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures (Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly to where the air
temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder level in basement applications. Raising the unit up off the floor, onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this problem.
none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the
compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity condenser sensor may have failed. These things usually occur in units that are
5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it
Hope this helped you to troubleshoot & solve the problem.
dehums remove humidity from air inside unit the evaporator sits in drain pan , drain pan has some sort of line or tube witch leeds to the internal collection or bucket thats what you slide out and empty when its full , ther is some sort of sensor or float switch that lets you know wen full make sure unit is draining properly inernaly and full system is working properly
the units low on refrigerant or freon,its normal for these to lose their charge after 2-3 years of use,i repaired a lot of these over the years,a couple of B.P.V.'s and about 9 ozs. of whatever type of refrigerant or freon and they will go another couple of years, all for about $50.00
there are coils in the unit that the water folws across, you can take the filter out and clean the coils, this would help,but even though it is only 1 year old it can go bad,, if it is clean inside and everything is appering to be working it might have just gone bad and n eed a new one