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Millerbobcat225gplus welding machihe w/onan16hp performer engine

Motor will not fire in start position when switch is released andn goes to the run position it will fire and pops loudly through the exhaust.can you help me?

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  • gj cruz Dec 27, 2008

    my machine has similar problems. i keep it covered but i thought mabe condensation could be a factor. when i release ignition to run or idle, it shuts off. but if i hold switch just past run position it will remain on. however i do notice strong smell of unburned gas fumes.

  • Carl Gehrke
    Carl Gehrke May 11, 2010

    Yep, I probably can help you. From your description of the problem it sounds like you might have a failed ignition system, the loud detonations you hear when the switch snaps back to run would be dieseling of the fuel/air that was last in the cylinders.
    First thing is to see if you're going to have to figure this out or if we can get your local Miller service center to do it on the company dime :-) What please is the serial number of the machine? If I know this I can find out its official birthday and we can see if it's younger than 3 yrs old.



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Carb is probly gumed up. I would put in a good dose of fuel injector cleaner in the fuel and start the engine llet it run 5 minites shut idown. What 2 days then restart,it should run fine. PS put sunoco ultra fuel in tank before you put in clean4er.drain tank before you start.

Posted on Aug 11, 2012

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Engine needs tuned up and carburetor cleaned out also you need to check for a spark and have valves adjusted

Posted on Dec 28, 2008


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When I try to start my tractor it just keeps turning over but doesn't start. The only way I can get it to stop turning over is to pull the battery cable. Any suggestions?

For a more specific answer post the following information: Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size, and hours on meter if you have one. A short description of the events preceding the beginning of the problem is also helpful.

The following generic information applies to just about every riding mower out there.

When you turn your key many things happen. One of those happens only when you turn all the way to start. In this position current, from the battery, travels down a small wire to your "starting solenoid". You can find this solenoid by following the very large wire backwards from your starter motor on the side of the engine. This very large wire carries a lot of current from the solenoid. Follow the wire down and you will come to a small, somewhat cylindrical device. It's about the size of a large pill bottle; maybe a big bottle of aspirin.

This little device has a magnetically operated plunger inside. When you turn your key the current running down a small wire comes to this solenoid. As it passes through the solenoid it activates the electro-magnet inside. That magnet pushes two thick contacts together. Those contacts bridge the gap between the two large threaded posts that you see on the end of the solenoid.
One of the two large posts has a heavy, thick, wire coming from the battery. The other post has the wire that goes to the starter. While the (internal) contactor bridges the gap between these posts, lots of electrical current flows through the big wires. This causes the starter to turn.

When you release the key from the start position, back to the run position, the internal contactor is pushed away from the posts by a spring. That causes the starter motor to cease turning. It sounds like the spring is broke or the contacts are mildly welding themselves together. In other words the internal contactor is stuck in the "on" position and this keeps supplying current to the starter.

The first problem, broken spring, is the easiest to fix. Just replace the solenoid. There are no internal serviceable parts.

The second problem "internal welding". That might also be fixed by replacing the solenoid. However there is a chance that this is being caused by the starter drawing too many amps or too much current (that's basically the same thing). You will need to test the amperes being drawn by the starter with a clamp style amp-meter. You might have to replace or service the starter. If the starter is drawing too many amps, a new solenoid will likely solve the problem for a while, but then it too will start to weld. Additionally, a bad starter pulling too many amps will damage the battery in a short period of time. You may have to replace both the solenoid and the starter.

One test you should perform is a voltage measurement of the battery while the starter is cranking. Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it across the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. Leaving the meter connected to the battery, crank the engine. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking, or while the engine is running, the fuel solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good (12.4 or greater volts) before, but drops near or below 9 volts while cranking, this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good and the voltage is still dropping you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.

Note: many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on.

Another possibility is the Key Switch. The Key Switch may have broken up inside and the multiple terminals which provide current to multiple devices on the tractor have become misaligned. This could cause both of the symptoms you described. The engine won't start AND the starter won't quit. If the terminals are faulty other parts of the system may not be engaging and the engine will not have the proper electrical connections for running. Additionally, the starter solenoid may still be getting current while the key is in the run position.

Put meter in the DC volt position. Disconnect the small wire from the solenoid. Connect one meter lead (red) to this wire and connect the other meter lead (black) to the negative post on the battery. You should see the following:
  1. Key off - No volts
  2. Key in Run position - No volts
  3. Turn and hold key in start position - you should read 12+ volts
  4. Release key back to run position - it should go back to No volts.
If your readings are like this the Key switch is good. If there is voltage present in the Run position, your key switch is bad. Replacing it will fix the problem.


Mar 23, 2015 | Garden


How to reset ECU,Throttle and Accelerator Position Learning


Below the procedure to reset ECU,Throttle and to perform Accelerator Position Learning on Nissan. It works on Titan, Altima, Infinity, pathfinder and other models.

ECU Resetting

While performing the procedures below, ensue that you are respecting the times stated. If the steps are not done within the specified times, the module will not reset. You will need to use a watch or a chronograph while performing the procedures.


1. Ensure that the accelerator pedal is fully released, set ignition switch to the “ON” position, then wait 3 seconds.
2. Follow the steps a and b below, repeat the two steps in sequence quickly for five times within 5 seconds.
a. Push hard the accelerator pedal untill fully depressed.
b. Release the accelerator pedal in full.
3. Wait 7 seconds, then depress the accelerator pedal completely, and hold it for about 10 seconds until the CEL (check engine light) starts blinking.
4. Release the accelerator pedal while the CEL is still blinking.
5. Wait 10 second.
6. Depressthe accelerator pedal in full and hold it for 10 seconds or more.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal while the CEL light keeps flashing.
8. Turn the ignition switch to “OFF” position and start the vehicle. If procedure has been done correctly, then the light light will turn off.
If the light continues to stay on, repeat the procedure.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning


1. Ensure that the accelerator pedal is completely released before starting the procedure.
2. Turn the ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch “OFF”, and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn the ignition switch “ON” and wait 2 seconds.
5. Turn the ignition switch “OFF” and wait 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning


1. Ensure that accelerator pedal is completely released.
2. Turn ignition switch to the “ON” position.
3. Turn ignition switch to the “OFF” position and wait at least 10 seconds.
Ensure that the throttle valve moves after turning the switch off.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)


1. Follow the Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning described above.
2. Do the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning also described above.
3. Start the engine, and allow warming up.
4. Turn the ignition on “OFF” positionand wait 10 seconds.
5. Ensure that accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn the ignition switch to “ON” position, and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the steps a and b below five times within 5 seconds in sequence.
a. Push hard the accelerator pedal untill fully depressed.
b. Release the accelerator pedal until reaching full extension.
8. Wait 7 seconds or more, depress the accelerator pedal completely and hold the pedal down for about 20 seconds until you see that the Check Engine Light stops blinking and starts getting steady..
9. Rrelease completely the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the light coming ON.
10. Start engine and let it run at idle for about 20 seconds.
12. Test the engine to ensure the idle speed and ignition timing are set correctly.


on Mar 25, 2010 | Nissan Titan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Starting proceedure for 72 evinrude outboard?

  • Check all connections , fuel, battery, etc
  • Squeeze primer bulb until firm
  • Lift choke switch , listen for operation (click)
  • Raise idle speed lever, not too much, be prepared to lower quickly if engine starts to over rev . (remember, this is a 1972, it does not have much for safeties.)
  • lift and HOLD choke switch
  • Turn key to crank
  • release choke when fires
  • if running, you may have to flip choke switch again until it warms up.
  • watch idle speed as 2 cycles can "run away"
  • Hope this helps
  • All of this assumes the motor is in the down position and IN THE WATER or hooked up to a flush device.
  • NEVER start the motor without water going to the gear case(water pump)

Feb 16, 2015 | Boating

1 Answer

2006 Yamaha YZF 600 R Thunder cat oil light comes on when depressing the starting button bike does not try to start oil light goes off after releasing the button neutral light is on all sensors are in...

Hi, Josh and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
YZF600R Forums View topic bike build won start
Yamaha YZF R6 2006 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha

Feb 12, 2015 | 2006 Yamaha YZF 600R

1 Answer

98 durango is firing but wont start

If the engine is actually firing when the switch ii in the 'start' position and it dies when you release the switch to the 'run' position, the problem could be the ignition ballast resistor - usually mounted on the firewall. The ballast is a white ceramic rectangle with wires connecting to it

Jul 28, 2014 | 1998 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Small honda engines

Check the wiring on the switch as you may have put the start wire on the wrong terminal so that in the run position you have not circuit for the ignition. The switch should be wired in the following way . Off--- first position= ignition ---second position=. ignition and start motor.After the engine starts by releasing the key back to the run position you still have ignition which keeps the motor running

Jul 29, 2013 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

What causes the ignition switch to keep the starter engaged?

Hi Melissa,

When you twist the ignition key from the "on" or "run" position to the start position, three things happen to start the engine. They are: a) the starter solenoid is energized [the starter solenoid is needed because the ignition switch has small wires capable of carrying 20 or 30 amps at the most and the starter motor will require hundreds of amps to spin - the solenoid can safely switch this huge amount of current], b) the starter drive gear solenoid (electro-magnet) is energized and physically causes the starter drive gear to move and engage the teeth on the engine's flywheel, and c) the starter motor spins the drive gear. The spinning drive gear turns the flywheel - simulating a very slow running engine. This sets up the timings for spark plug firing, fuel intake, compression, combustion, exhaust, etc. Without spinning the engine the timings wouldn't exist. The same happens when the starter rope is pulled on a typical lawn mower engine - except the starter is the person pulling the rope and the electro-magnet solenoid drive gear is the mechanical, spring loaded spool of rope (that magically is coiled up after pulling to start the engine.

Once the key is released, it defaults by spring action to the "run" position. The run position provides power to the ignition system to provide spark, etc. but electrically disconnects the power from the starter solenoid (and starter motor and drive gear solenoid as a result).

If the starter remains engaged after the key has been released from the start position (and the key moves back to the run position as designed), it could very well be a faulty ignition switch that is failing to open the electrical connection to the start solenoid. You *may* have some success by spraying a liberal amount of "electrical contact cleaner" directly into the key opening on the ignition switch. It will clear dirt, grime and other stuff that doesn't belong in it - so it may drip out very dirty - that means it's doing its job. Work the key in and out of the ignition and twist back and forth while spraying into the lock. With any luck, you'll clean the contacts enough so that it works properly. Never spray graphite or lubricants into the ignition switch - those products can be used on door locks only.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Feb 14, 2013 | Ignition System for Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

What's your problem?my car can,t raise (fire very well and can not change or select it gear automatically,

The first step is to narrow down the cause of the no-start.

Let's go over the process of starting the car, so you have a better understanding of what is going on when you turn the key:


The first step is to narrow down the cause of the no-start.

Let's go over the process of starting the car, so you have a better understanding of what is going on when you turn the key:

Here is what happens on a properly running car:

  • You sit behind the wheel and insert the ignition key into the switch.

  • You then turn the key to the spring loaded start position. When you do that, the ignition switch engages the starter by connecting the battery to the electric starter motor which, in turn cranks the engine over. This can be easily heard and is referred to as cranking the engine over.

  • The next thing you will hear is the engine running, which is your signal to release the key.

  • At that point, the engine is running and you are ready to place the transmission selector in Drive and be on your way.

ere is what happens on a properly running car:

  • You sit behind the wheel and insert the ignition key into the switch.

  • You then turn the key to the spring loaded start position. When you do that, the ignition switch engages the starter by connecting the battery to the electric starter motor which, in turn cranks the engine over. This can be easily heard and is referred to as cranking the engine over.

  • The next thing you will hear is the engine running, which is your signal to release the key.

  • At that point, the engine is running and you are ready to place the transmission selector in Drive and be on your way.

Nov 02, 2011 | 1997 Honda Accord

1 Answer

The dryer runs without the start switch being used.

Good day,
The dryer start switch, starts the motor by bypassing the centrifugal
switch built into the motor. Once the motor is running, releasing the switch doesn't matter because the motor gets it's power directly from the timer to the motor thru the centrifugal switch.

Either the switch on the consul has welded the contacts, or the centrifugal switch in the motor has done the same.

To test, unplug, and access the start switch. remove one of the wires from the switch, tape it to prevent shorting, and try the dryer. If it fails to start, then it is the switch.
If it still does the same thing as before, it is the centrifugal switch in the motor.

Dec 22, 2009 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Millerbobcat225gplus/serial#kf866447 weldingmachine/generator

how old is unit ?? bad switch, motor needs tune up??cam ,valves, compression???

Jan 06, 2009 | Welding Tools

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