Question about Honeywell Electronic Programmable Heat/Cool Thermostat - CT3300A100 Heater

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Honeywell CT3611 thermostat malfunction

I have a honeywell CT3611 thermostat and a york heat pump (E2CS030A06A) and I'm having problems with the fan and auxillary heat turning on and off to maintain the indoor temperature. My indoor unit has wires connected to C,G,R,W1,W2 and my thermostat has wires connected to C,R,W2,E,W1,Y,O,G but no wires to B,L. I followed the guide for the thermostat wiring however the fan does not work when I place the control on "continuous" and the aux/supplemental heat does not turn on on the indoor unit eeven though the thermostat indicates it's on. I checked my aux/supp coils and they are working fine. Someone please help.

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  • vasilios_pap Dec 16, 2008

    Hi Jack,

    Thank you for your help. I bought the house in 2001 and it had a York heat pump/electric furnace. I had an old mercury switch thermostat which I replaced in 2003/4? with a Honeywell thermostat. I noticed problems originally with the fan however it wasn't critical. Last week when the temp outside dropped to -25C, I noticed that my indoor set temp of 20.5C was dropping and that my auxillary heat wasn't starting. My heating guy had told me if I ever needed aux/emergency heat to just attach/detach a wire to turn the coils on/off however I never needed to do that since I had installed the thermostat. My heating guy is not familiar with electronic thermostats (he is 63 years old). This is how I'm getting by, I get up in the middle of the night to detach the wire and by morning the temp inside is 19C. I have not changed anything on the heating system except for the thermostat. I hope this answers your question.

    PS-How do I reply to you aside from adding a comment?


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A very common occurrence with service calls is the complaint that the thermostat isn't working properly. Sometimes this is true but often it is something entirely different than the thermostat. Because some people believe the only problem with the system rests with the thermostat, they'll go down to the local hardware store and purchase a brand new thermostat. They get home and dust off the tool box, never read any thermostat installation directions, and proceed to change the thermostat. Some are successful at changing the thermostat and some are not. Those that are most likely read some thermostat installation directions or had someone read the thermostats installation directions for them. The ones that are not successful end up calling a professional in to install a new thermostat.
The bottom line advice to most people is to call an HVAC professional if something is wrong with your thermostat or HVAC system. The problem may not be with the thermostat and you may exasperate the problem which will cost more in the long run. Additionally, If you have a multi-zone system, a high-efficiency heat pump or even just a heat pump, a regular split-system AC and a boiler for heat (and you have one thermostat), or an Apollo based system (hot water heated in a water heater) with a split AC system....... call a professional. These systems can be very complex and may require special sub-bases so the thermostat control circuit will work properly. Additionally, for heat pumps, there are different controls, and wires for these controls run into the thermostat, they are multi-colored thermostat wires. These controls can be very complex and each wire must go to the correct terminal on the thermostat or the unit will not run correctly. There are so many different variations to this High Performance HVAC will not attempt to describe them here. We will describe the common type (at least for this region (mid-Atlantic) and if you see that you have the system described you can proceed cautiously at your own risk.
Additionally, be aware that thermostats are equipped with heating and cooling anticipators. Cooling anticipators are not adjustable where heat anticipators are adjustable in mechanical thermostats. Setting the heat anticipator is important for your heating system and thermostat to function properly. It is set according to the amp draw on the control heating circuit. Make sure the heat anticipator is set properly in the thermostat or thermostats so you will get the best out of your heating system and your thrmostats.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008


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Hi there,

i would like to know first if you have replaced and changed a spare parts..?

which of the parts have you replace, and may i know the first problem occurred happen..


Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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I think this is the same wiring diagram as your model:

honeywell CT3611 thermostat malfunction - 550ce78.jpg

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 16, 2008

    Here is a breakdown of your wirings:

    The C terminal is common power.

    The G wire is the fan

    The R is the 24 volts wire

    The Y is first stage of heat

    The W1 is second stage of heat

    The W2 is third stage of heat

    The O is the contact to reversing valve.

    B and L are relays. B is heating changeover relay, and L is emergency heath relay.

    Follow instructions and diagram on the manual to do the wiring.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 16, 2008

    The emergency heath relay is L, if you did not connect L to the thermostat, this wont start the relay, and wont kick in the heath pump.


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Thermostat Wiring and Terminal Designations

Here is a list of each common terminal and what their commonly used for. Also listed is what colors are commonly used. NEVER ASSUME these are what you have. Verify all your wires by following each to each piece of equipment. This will help you to be able to match your equipment with the terminal.

- R, Rc, Rh Red wire, hot side of transformer
- C various color wires Usually the common side of transformer
- Y Yellow wire, Energizes the compressor, cooling or heating and cooling for heat pumps
- W White wire, heating for most units
- G Green wire, energizes the fan or blower relay.
- O Orange wire, energizes cooling on most heat pump units
- B Blue and sometimes Orange wire, energizes heat on most heat pump units
- B or X Blue, Black, or Brown wire, the common side of the transformer when the t-stat needs a common. Some brands use B as the common (York, GE, and Trane)
- E Pink, Gray or Tan wires, Emergency heat relay on heat pumps with auxiliary heat
- T Tan or Gray wires, For units with outdoor anticipator reset control (Trane, American Standard, GE, and Carrier)
- W2 Pink, or Brown wires energizes second stage heating on 2 stage units
- Y2 Blue or Pink wires, energizes second stage cooling on 2 stage units
- L Can be most any color, energizes service indicator lamp on units that are equipped with that.

The wires that always cause the most confusion are the B and X wires.
Check out the B terminal first. The NEMA standard for the B terminal to be the heating changeover valve but with some units it is different.

Trane, GE, York and some other manufactures which includes older Honeywell thermostats often use it for the common side of the transformer.
“X” Usually is the standard for common, but just like “B” some manufactures do use “X” or “X2” as the terminal for the emergency heat relay.

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Make sure G from indoor unit goes to G on thermostat for fan continous fan, if that doesn't work and you have 24 volts to R and C then the t'stat is bad.
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You don't need any wires from W1on the indoor unit to W1 at the t'stat because with a York heat pump Y1 is the contactor which turns the compressor on and you will get 1st stage heat, and for cooling the t'stat will also bring on O which is the (reversing valve) or cooling changeover relay for the cooling mode.
C = common usually black wire
R = hot usually red wire
Y or Y1 = contactor
W1 = 1st stage heat not needed for heat pump
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G = fan
O = Cooling changeover relay
B = Heating changeover relay
L = System monitor
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