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Re: Recoil starter wont turn
Try taking the recoil cover off and with a pry bar or a big flat head screwdriver positioned in the flywheel, remove the spark plug and try to rotate the flywheel. Don't pry to hard so you dont snap fins off. If the fly wheel does rotate the the problem is the recoil, if it does not rotate then you will need to get a can of Deep Creep Seafoam from the auto parts store and spray the seafoam into the spark plug hole, while spraying it into the spark plug hole try to coat the cylinder wall with it (don't spray to much, just enough to coat the cylinder wall and just cover the top of the cylinder) let sit over night then spray it again the next day,then try to rotate the flywheel again. If it still don't rotate then you will have to pull the head off and you will have to get someone to help with this part, while one person tries to rotate the flywheel the other will have to take a hammer useing the end of the handle while holding the head of the hammer and hit on the top of the piston to force the piston free, you can also use a deadblow hammer and hit the piston with the head of the deadblow. Also if the piston is not at the top of the cylinder you want to rotate the flywheel backwards (counter clockwise).
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You don't need to replace the whole recoil starter just the pull rope.
There a few different ways of replacing the rope depending which recil starter you have. The tension is the same for all of them. You tighten the pulley until it stops and back off up to one turn with the rope fully extended.
Depending on engine you remove the housing, underneath you will see a pulley in which the cord goes around. Remove it, a couple of things could be there, spring has broken, easily replaced an not expensive. Could be trash or broken cord. This is an easy job dont panic follow instructions on new part. More than anything else its a coiled spring. Not much else could be wrong an if it is you can spot it. . You may need to replace pulley if it has a crack in it. They have long since quit making them from metal now. Pulley or spring or both is your problem.
You need to pretension the spring before installing. Easier to do this before attaching the line, but there is a technique (at least for larger engines) for adjusting spring tension with the line still on. If you need I can describe it for you or tell you where on youtube I saw a guy do this. That video was for a snowblower engine, but the technique worked on my chipper. I see no reason why it would not work on a smaller two stroke, assuming there is nothing wacky about the configuration. I would think that a recoil starter for a two stroke and a four stroke should all use the same principle,.
You could disassemble the unit to get to the starter/recoil unit if you want to take a look at it. Here is how that is accomplished. Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed.
When you have the starter top removed, you must wind the spring BEFORE installing the rope. Wind the pulley until it is at maximum tension, then unwind it until the hole in the pulley lines up with the eyelet on the starter top. Now, put the rope thru the eyelet and into the pulley hole. It is helpful to have somebody holding the tension on the pulley, or you can insert a small tool thru the vent holes to hold the pulley in place. Use a figure 8 knot on the rope. Go ahead and tie the handle onto the other end of the rope, and release the pulley tension. It should now recoil into the starter housing. Test pull the rope several times to make sure it is moving freely. Reinstall the starter housing onto the engine and retest.
I had a similar problem with an edger and it was due to the blade hitting part of the frame so that the shaft could not turn. With the spark plug disconnected (be careful), try turning the blade with your hand. You can also pull the spark plug and see if the lack of compression makes a difference. I know this isn't a definitive solution but hopefully it will help. Good luck.
what is your proper mixture?50:1?
Be sure you are mixing 2cycle oil to 1 gallon of fuel or whatever it takes to make this ratio
My reccomendations are run 40;1 3.2 OZ OF OIL TO ONE GALLON OF GAS
also you may have a lean out condition and the H on the carb, may need to be ritchened a little
Motor should not be screaming you should have a slight blubber when throttle is held wide open
There is also the point that the fuel which was left in the tank, has filled the cylinder up.
What you need to do, is to take the spark plug out, cover the hole is an old cloth, and then pull gently on the starter cord. If it is well and truly flooded this will get rid of most of the petrol, If this is what's happened, I'd leave it overnight, with its spark plug out, and then refill the tank with some fresh fuel [plus 2 stroke oil] and replace the spark plug and try again.
On the other hand, if the motor still won't turn with the spark plug out, you've got real problems, as it suggests that parts have seized up, and will need to be freed off before the motor will run.